Still working out what to do about the rear bumper but I did do some work on the CTT yesterday. I bought and installed secondary bypass pipes. Not that bad a job once you get all the peripheral stuff out of the way.

It made a noticeable difference! And folks here will be surprised where I bought the pipes too. After the debacle with trying to buy an exhaust from Leistung I looked around and I didn't really find any better deal than Hank at Hanksville is doing on the pipes. I decided to give him a shot and he came through in a big way. I ordered the pipes last weekend and he shipped them out first thing Tuesday after the holiday. They were here by Friday and I put them in yesterday.

The ONLY issue I had, and it was pretty minor was that the pipes were labeled backwards and I ended up not figuring that out until after I had put them in. It didn't take very long the second time around to remove and swap them.

Hank provided excellent communication and superior customer service. I will totally eat my words about not doing business with him and will gladly do business with him again. He even offered to field calls on the weekend if I had any questions. And once I figured out the pipes were in backwards the hangers and everything lined up great! Very nice product!

 

I also purchased mine from Hanksville (via Ebay) about 2 weeks ago. I believe that they purchased the design from Leistung (if I remember correctly). I had the exact same experience as you. Everything fit perfectly after I figured out that everything was labeled for the wrong side. Both pipes were marked in both marker and with a white label, yet they were both marked incorrectly. The hangers were all marked with a white label, and they were also marked for the wrong side. Once I noticed the driver's side pipe was ramming up in to the floor, I tried it on the passenger side and it fit perfectly. I'm loving the sound (especally on cold starts) and the price at $465 (+ 15 shipping) was hard to beat.

 

Yep, I like the sound as well. I let Hank know about the wrong labeling and he is looking at fixing it. Yeah I couldn't figure out why one side was hitting the floor and the other hitting the cross member.

 

Finally got around to the job that I was dreading after reading other posts about it. Replaced the diverter valves today.

I don't see why everyone said this was so hard. It was a little tight on the driver's side but not that bad. With the remote clamp pliers it was just a matter of getting them at the correct angle.

I didn't take either wheel off and only took the passenger side wheel well liner loose. You can get to all the fasteners for it with the tire still on. Actually I almost had just as hard a time getting the passenger side top clamp off as the driver's. The shroud for the intercooler kept getting in the way.

But they are done and the whole project only took me a couple hours. Well, so far. I left the bottom trays off when I did the bypass pipes last week so that saved me a little time. And I still left them off until after I go for a test drive to make sure it all holds.

 

I posted in the thread about strange whirring noise that I was hearing something from the front also. I changed out the differential fluids yesterday and my noise went away.

Still having issues with losing boost somewhere. Will keep working to track it down.

 

Nice , how many miles on the car ?

 

Pushing 80,000.

 

So I have been looking at parts diagrams and I can't seem to figure out what the fitting on the bottom of the intake Y is? I'm wondering if I knocked something loose on it when I took the intake apart.

The top of the fitting seems to spin around but I can't see how it would come loose. I pushed on the tabs but it won't come apart. Any ideas??

 

It will come apart. Just have to get it just right and pull it off in a straight down direction. It is on page 9 of the ECT coolant pipe instructions.
http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...efresh_Kit.pdf

 

I'll play with it some more tonight. Thanks!!

 

It helps if you push the connector in while you squeeze the tabs, then pull it out.

 

If this doesn't work, you may want to gently use a pair of channel pliers and a standard screwdriver for leverage. Since this is plastic, this should be your last resort since there is a high risk of cracking the plastic.

 

Thanks Gents. I didn't get a chance to play with it last night.

 

Well I still haven't traced down my boost leak. But I did get some pipe caps and air fittings put together for a test rig. Now I just need to figure out where and how to hook it up to find the leak.

I took time last weekend to replace the coils and plugs. The plugs didn't look too bad but new ones were pretty cheap so I did them while I was doing the coils. Had a little bit of a rough idle and now it's nice and smooth. The only hard part of the job was getting the passenger side beauty cover back in. In fact I ended up breaking it and it went back in two pieces. Maybe I'll see if my new plastic welder can fix it someday. Too much other stuff to worry about right now.

 

I hooked my boost leak tester to the MAF housing tubes.