Gotcha. Well get in touch for a detail once you're ready if you don't already have your own detailer. Best of luck with the hood. I know a great guy who does painting but he's in Palatine, so if you don't know anyone closer, PM me and I'll give you his info. Only painter I can say that I actually trust as a detailer haha

Oh and I'll be on my black '07 zzr600.. I'm leaving pretty early though as I want to do tons of riding before the rest of the people, who are driving, catch up.

 

I would also try a damp rag with rubbing alcohol on it right after you put heat on it. Apply heat then apply the damp rag. Try that first, if no luck I'd go the wet sanding route. Then of course if nothing works then a repaint.

 

It usually takes a few weeks in the sun to get the moister out of the paint. But if the actual basecoat is damaged, which in this case it looks to be through the clear and maybe the base, wet sanding isn't going to do anything. I'd say give it a good week or two in the sun, then if all else fails, repaint. If you do repaint, wait a month or so and then put a clear film on the front to avoid this.

 

A few weeks in the sun?? Hurts me to think of leaving her out in the mean sun that long....

 

I know...but it needs the heat, and UV, from the sun to clear things up. Would you rather have a repaint or original paint? It's worth a try. If it works, saves you thousands $$$, if not, repaint was in order anyway.

 

Its hard to explain my technique but back when I was doing dealer work I would use a spray bottle with a 50/50 or 70/30 mixture of water and rubbing alcohol and a heat gun. I would heat the panel in circular motions then mist the panel with the mixture then wipe. Repeat as much as it took and followed with my normal paint correction procedure. I must warn you heating a panel with high heat from a heat gun is dangerous. Start with a low setting then up the heat as needed. Of course this is just away to expedite the correction. ( if it is moisture migration )

 

Try finding a detail shop to do it if not your self. I just sold my 993 to a dealer and he went over every curve and flat panel with a paint depth gauge. He told me if the paint was thicker then factory depth he didn't want the car. He said as soon as a person sees paint work (not brush touch) they think the car has been smacked.

 

The rubbing alcohol left the surface blurry. Is that the wax or polish it is removing? I tried to wipe it down with a detail spray and MF towel, then even a clay bar and it is still blurred. Too strong of alcohol?
.... quickly moving toward a respray.

 

The alcohol removes both wax and polish. The alcohol is used to help dry out the moisture. The blurring can be corrected with polish by hand or machine.

 

Well, it looks like good news. After the alcohol bath, the water spots were gone. I was left with the smears. I used a clay bar, then paint polish and it is all cleared up! Thank you all for the expert advice. Now, I'm back to just paint chips and swirls to work through. Thanks again. This thread is a great resource for us amateurs...

 

Im glad it all worked out for you Sorry for the scare with the blurring, it does'nt always have that reaction. At any rate you back in order, well as good as it was b4

 

AWSOME Glad to hear it worked out. I've seen this many times and usually I tell clients to wait as I did to you. But I think the alcohol trick worked well and sped things up.

 

Really glad to hear that worked out, and I am excited to hear that trick, that was something that I hadn't heard before.

 

Thats an old trick I used to use about 10yrs ago on Audi's when they would come in off transport, moisture would get traped between the plastic and the paint and once it heated up from the sun the moisture choose the easiest path to go.