I always do a 2 step (or sometimes 3 step) process. First is correction than finishing, if you get holograms after correction than I just finish it off with a lighter polish and work it slowly. Some cars require a 3 step where 2 steps of correction are needed. This car, having super soft paint was very difficult to work with because of the level of correction required and the pictures dont show the real amount of swirls and RIDS, i wish I had pictures of the trunk on a wide scale in the sun and you would see what im talking about.

I would have liked to use a minimally agressive polish and go over the car twice to remove the defect and then follow up with a finisher but it wouldnt have been enough to remove the deeper RIDS and the owner wanted a full correction. I knew no matter what I did for correction I would get severe holograms so I went with a least agressive methods I could to achieve heavy correction by working in descending order of agressiveness in both pad choice and polish choice.

So I worked SIP on both machines at very slow speeds, this is one reason why the polishing process took so long. Getting SIP to breakdown fully at well under 1500rpm is a real pain. And using 3M ultrafina like I did it took even longer, that is a polish I normally work at 1800rpm! It was after every step I had to jewel the finish slower and slower using almost no pressure to ensure no holograms were left. And every single panel got a full correction job including the roof. So yes it took a very long time but to get perfection and finish with no holograms thats how long I needed.

 

Great job

 

 

Thanks guys

 

Looks sick

 

Beautiful job, lots of blood and sweat.

 

Little bit of the first one, lots more of the latter