Spotless Water Deionization System Promotion
#1
Spotless Water Deionization System Promotion
Customer Testimonials:
Absolutely works. Can't live without it now. Also, get the Airmax dryer from Moe at Glistening Perfection. This two system process will eliminate drying, which will also cut down on the swirling potential from the hand drying. Highly recommended.
chardonet (6speedonline)
Grab a CR system from Moe - you won't be disappointed!
MidnighTT (6speedonline)
If you don't already have the CR system...you definitely need it...fantastic!!! I love mine!!!
TUUNER (6speedonline)
I also purchased a CRspotless, and some other products, from Moe some months ago. I got the same VIP treatment that you experienced. He's a pleasure to deal with. It's great to be able to speak with someone so knowledgeable and experienced. As far as the CRspotless, I concur, it works just as advertised. It's a great time and swirl mark saver.
Paladin (Rennlist)
I received the cr spotless from Moe on saturday. Used for the first time this afternoon. In a word...incredible.Even the windows are cleaner and require no wiping off after wash. Worth every penny. Moe was a pleasure to work with....had a delivery problem and Moe offered a free refill for my inconvenience. Even my wheels are shinier. I was doubtful at first but a friend if mine kept raving about it so I decided to try it. Im glad I did.
points (Rennlist)
Got mine today. Came home from C&C and it was sitting on my doorstep. Washed both cars in less time than I ususally spend on my 997 alone.
Well worth it!! Thanks Moe.
LeNoah (6speedonline)
Got mine last week and fired it up today in conjunction with a pressure washer for initial rinse and semi-final rinse and worked incredible. Just used an open hose for the last few seconds to "flood" and basically didn't really have to wipe anything down... Thanks again Moe
INSman (6speedonline)
Sale ends 2/15/10
Click HERE to Order
#3
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...acement/Detail
#4
You can use the 6speed code on this resin, or any other resin, and get an additional 10% off.
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...acement/Detail
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...acement/Detail
Does that code expire or is it good indefinitely?
#6
I will tell everyone right now, if there is one product that you need if you are looking to make your job easier when washing your car, this is it. This simplifies everything to such a degree, you probably won't make a big deal about having to wash your wife's car now!
#7
I can attest to the ease of use, while a bit expensive at first ($/gallon), it gets cheaper as you replace the resin. I have even done a recharge of the resin with some basic chemistry and saved big time. I love it with a foam cannon too.
Cheers,
GREG
Cheers,
GREG
Trending Topics
#11
Heck yeah, I am all for making it last as long as possible. It lasts considerably longer now that we utilize the pressure washer on every detail, but the longer that we can make the resin last the better.
#13
I have neither, but in for the DIY
#14
Let's talk "franchising" here Greg, I am just sayin'...
#15
Recharging your DI resin
This is the process I used from my Buddy Brandt.......
OK, just a quick run down of the whole process... All measurements are by volume, not by weight.
Pic of most everything used.
Put about three gallons of cold tap water in the white five gallon bucket. Put about five gallons of DI water into the orange five gallon bucket.
1. mix 15 oz of lye into 55 oz of cold *DI* (or Distilled) water. As shown.
Put an airtight lid on it, and shake it. It'll get hot fast. Carefully release the excess pressure, and let the container cool off in the five gallon bucket of cool water. Every few minutes, shake it again. Do this until it no longer gets hot when shaken. Takes about five times.
Now that you have your lye solution ready, you're ready to soak all the resin in it. Dump a bunch of resin into your container. I used the ones already shown, but here's another pic of it. This is after dumping a bunch of DI resin into the container, then adding the lye solution to it. Notice that the fluid gap is between the two layers of resin. That's what you want. If the fluid gap is on top of the resin, then you don't have enough lye solution. Add more lye solution until the gap separates the two media types.
Now you have to separate the two resin types. The Anion resin is floating on the top of the lye solution, and is getting recharged *by* the lye solution. The Cation resin (dark purple) has sunk to the bottom, and is now completely spent. I used the yellow transmission filling valve to drain the Cation resin off of the bottom of the tank. I poured it into a strainer, then ran a gallon of DI water through it to rinse as much of the lye off of it as possible. The Cation resin is going to take an acid bath, so removing as much lye (by rinsing it with DI water first) is very helpful to keep from neutralizing too much of the acid.
I then placed the rinsed cation resin into one of the large plastic cereal containers and added a 1:1 muriatic acidI Water solution to it until it was completely covered in the acid bath. Stir it well, several times over the next thirty minutes.
Now drain the Anion resin (use a strainer) and rinse it thoroughly with DI water, straining as much water out as you can. Place it in a new ziploc bag. Do the same thing with the Cation resin. You're done.
Now if you want to try your luck at separate filters, some guys have had some success. But supposedly (and even though it's more work), mixing equal parts of anion/cation resin is better. I'm not very happy with how much water I got out of my resin, and I'm slightly concerned that there's enough lye/acid in each corresponding resin to negatively effect mixing them together, but I'm going to give it a shot today and see what happens.
Keeping them separate in different cartridges would certainly make the whole resin recharge thing go much easier. Guess I'll have to find out which one should go first if you keep them separate instead of doing a mixed-bed cartridge.
Edit: The 55 oz of water and 15 oz of lye wasn't enough to recharge an entire CRSpotless full of resin. It'll do about 3/4's of it. You'll still need to do a smaller batch. My smaller batch was 22 oz of water and 6 oz of lye. On the acid side, just mix it one to one with DI water, and add it to the resin until the resin is completely submerged by the acid bath. Next time, I'll just do a 77 oz of water to 21 oz of lye solution and do it all in one batch.
OK, just a quick run down of the whole process... All measurements are by volume, not by weight.
Pic of most everything used.
Put about three gallons of cold tap water in the white five gallon bucket. Put about five gallons of DI water into the orange five gallon bucket.
1. mix 15 oz of lye into 55 oz of cold *DI* (or Distilled) water. As shown.
Put an airtight lid on it, and shake it. It'll get hot fast. Carefully release the excess pressure, and let the container cool off in the five gallon bucket of cool water. Every few minutes, shake it again. Do this until it no longer gets hot when shaken. Takes about five times.
Now that you have your lye solution ready, you're ready to soak all the resin in it. Dump a bunch of resin into your container. I used the ones already shown, but here's another pic of it. This is after dumping a bunch of DI resin into the container, then adding the lye solution to it. Notice that the fluid gap is between the two layers of resin. That's what you want. If the fluid gap is on top of the resin, then you don't have enough lye solution. Add more lye solution until the gap separates the two media types.
Now you have to separate the two resin types. The Anion resin is floating on the top of the lye solution, and is getting recharged *by* the lye solution. The Cation resin (dark purple) has sunk to the bottom, and is now completely spent. I used the yellow transmission filling valve to drain the Cation resin off of the bottom of the tank. I poured it into a strainer, then ran a gallon of DI water through it to rinse as much of the lye off of it as possible. The Cation resin is going to take an acid bath, so removing as much lye (by rinsing it with DI water first) is very helpful to keep from neutralizing too much of the acid.
I then placed the rinsed cation resin into one of the large plastic cereal containers and added a 1:1 muriatic acidI Water solution to it until it was completely covered in the acid bath. Stir it well, several times over the next thirty minutes.
Now drain the Anion resin (use a strainer) and rinse it thoroughly with DI water, straining as much water out as you can. Place it in a new ziploc bag. Do the same thing with the Cation resin. You're done.
Now if you want to try your luck at separate filters, some guys have had some success. But supposedly (and even though it's more work), mixing equal parts of anion/cation resin is better. I'm not very happy with how much water I got out of my resin, and I'm slightly concerned that there's enough lye/acid in each corresponding resin to negatively effect mixing them together, but I'm going to give it a shot today and see what happens.
Keeping them separate in different cartridges would certainly make the whole resin recharge thing go much easier. Guess I'll have to find out which one should go first if you keep them separate instead of doing a mixed-bed cartridge.
Edit: The 55 oz of water and 15 oz of lye wasn't enough to recharge an entire CRSpotless full of resin. It'll do about 3/4's of it. You'll still need to do a smaller batch. My smaller batch was 22 oz of water and 6 oz of lye. On the acid side, just mix it one to one with DI water, and add it to the resin until the resin is completely submerged by the acid bath. Next time, I'll just do a 77 oz of water to 21 oz of lye solution and do it all in one batch.