Detailing Paint, body, detailing and waxing.

My First Clayjob! And Questions Therefrom

Old Nov 5, 2010 | 09:17 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by KNK
Moe, thanks for the info. But what if you're not going to polish. I've got a new car that was waxed by the dealer at some point, but I'd like to start from scratch and wash, clay and wax again. I'm not going to polish at this point. Do I need to use a product to strip the old wax, or is it sufficient to just wash, clay, and wax?

Thanks in advance.
Polishing is probably more important than waxing. It's the claying and polishing that's going really clean and rejuvenate the paint. I would HIGHLY advise you polish. If time is of concern, clay, polish, and use a spray wax.

http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...nish%2C/Detail
 
Old Nov 5, 2010 | 10:59 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by MoeMistry
Polishing is probably more important than waxing. It's the claying and polishing that's going really clean and rejuvenate the paint. I would HIGHLY advise you polish. If time is of concern, clay, polish, and use a spray wax.
Thanks Moe. Can you recommend a polish that I can use by hand?
 
Old Nov 9, 2010 | 01:11 PM
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Washing the car with dawn liquid sod will remove the wax... Per Zaino
 
Old Nov 9, 2010 | 01:12 PM
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Make that liquid soap, not sod as washing with sod may be.... ugly...
 
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbroe
Washing the car with dawn liquid sod will remove the wax... Per Zaino
DawnŽ and similar type washing liquids chemistry relies primarily on detergent and surfactant technology. This type of chemistry has advanced to the point that it can be engineered to specific soils (i.e. organic grease) Detergent and soap chemistry and product formulation is a lot more complicated than this, suffice it to say; modern car wash formulations are automotive soil specific.

It was initially used to remove traces of the oils from waxes commonly used on Nitrocellulose Lacquer paints, this is probably the reason some ‘mature’ painters recommend its use (old habits die hard). Obviously time has changed and advanced auto wash concentrates and paint cleaners are available and likely better to use. Modern clear coat is porous so I would not recommend using a harsh dishwashing detergent such as DawnŽ on a regular basis, as they contain a degreaser, although most of them are approx pH 8.0 (although pH is not the only thing to consider when evaluating products, the MSDS will provide other relevant information.


As a means of paint surface preparation and the removal of wax / polymer sealants it’s not very effective as paint protection products are usually formulated to be detergent resistant

The MSDS indicates that this product contains sodium hydroxide, these salt crystals could be mildly abrasive when they 'come out' of the compound later and will then permeate the pant surface. Salt is hygroscopic and highly alkaline, the same ingredient are used in engine degreasers to chemically ‘burn’ hydrocarbon oils and grease from engine surfaces. Sodium hydroxide will severely stain aluminium, magnesium, etc other ingredients and will tend to oxidise the paint system and emulsify, breakdown and leach out oils found in rubber moulding, trim and the paint system, which causes the plasticizers to dry out causing them to lose their flexibility and eventually fail
 

Last edited by TOGWT; Nov 10, 2010 at 07:45 AM.
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