Detailing Paint, body, detailing and waxing.

Sealants: regular and nano?

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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 05:54 PM
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Sealants: regular and nano?

What is new in Detailing technology? There seem to be something called "nano sealants" now on the market?

I was a fan of Polymer Sealants (specifically Meguire's #20) when it first came out. I like the durability and hardness of the protection. The only problem was that the sealant stained the black plastic trim. I hear that some of the better sealants today don't have this problem. And what are these new nano sealants?
Which brands are good, and what should I look for nowdays?

Lastly - drying: Terrycloth or Micro Fiber? Maybe I am old school for preferring Terrycloth.

Thanks
 
Old Dec 20, 2012 | 03:41 AM
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Some of the materials and technologies that have changed detailing forever; Polymer sealants, Detailers clay, Microfiber towels, Nanotechnology coatings, Polishes containing nanotechnology ceramic micro-particulate, diminishing abrasives and Full body vinyl wraps

Working with DaimlerChrysler’s Mercedes-Benz unit, PPG’s Development Group in Allison, PA, developed ceramic clear coat technology. CeramiClear™ clear coat uses nanotechnology to migrate silicon particles to the outer surface of the coating, creating a very thin, hard, glass-like surface.

Probably the greatest impact has come from the use of coatings, which have completely changed the landscape of the detailing industry. Products like Zaino, Collinite, and etc used to be the best protection available but nanotechnology (AQuartz) or a reactive polymer resin coatings (Opti-Coat™ ) that offer a coating thickness of 2-3 µ (microns) and a scratch resistant hardness of 9H, greatly extended durability, scratch resistance and protection from the elements that can be measured in seasons or years, as opposed to others
For many years (twenty plus) my polymer sealant of choice was an acrylic polymer (Klasse) I then converted to a polymer sealant (Zaino) and used it for approx fifteen years, but automotive sealants and coatings(Opti-Coat™, Aquartz, Permanon, G|Techniq) have evolved immensely over the last five years or so and have changed paint protection to an inordinate degree

See article
"Nanotechnology Coatings" - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/136613-nanotechnology-coating-products.html#post1448634

 
Old Dec 20, 2012 | 09:25 AM
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We pretty much have two categories of protection at our facility. Carnauba, because nothing has yet to match its warmth and depth, and nano technology because it's cutting edge and the results are simply amazing. Stays cleaner longer, has scratch resistance, extreme durability, etc. Pretty exciting time in the detailing camp.

Jon mentioned some good brands to choose from.

As for drying, microfiber only. Terry towels will scratch most paints.
 
Old Dec 20, 2012 | 10:09 AM
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I only use terry cloth towels in the engine bay, wheel wells, and to clean foam pads on the fly, they shouldn't ever touch paint since Microfiber is available.
 
Old Dec 20, 2012 | 12:59 PM
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How easy to apply are these nano products? Can I do so by hand, or do they require a machine polisher?
 
Old Dec 25, 2012 | 04:23 AM
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Opti-Coat™ application

· As with any product, there is a learning curve and you will get better results as you do more applications.
· It cannot be emphasized enough ‘Apply products very sparingly’ (10cc (0.3 oz) should be sufficient for most
· The slickness of Opti-Coat 2.0 (as compared to Opti-Guard will be more pronounced since it cures more slowly and has more time to’ level’.
· An organic (or synthetic) wax can be added over Opti-Coat 2.0. By using Poli-Seal, you can smooth out any ridges and unevenness to further improve the finish. Poli-Seal and / or Opti-Seal will last longer over the coating than most other products.
Opti-Coat is based on a resin pre-polymer and once it is applied, it cross links and reacts with urethane and other clear coat paints to form a permanent coating. Opti-Coat has better chemical resistance, scratch and mar resistance (9H) and release properties, just like a regular clear coat, Opti Coat lasts indefinitely unless it is removed by polishing, sanding, or paint removers.

Application Methodology
1. Carry out all your prep work to get the paint to your level of personal perfection? (Washed, clayed, cleaned and polished level)
2. Clean surface to remove all polishing oils, waxes, and silicone.
3. Apply Opti-Coat 2.0 to the foam applicator by pressing on the plunger in the syringe.
4. Prime the applicator by making an X across the pad. Only a few drops will be needed for each subsequent panel.
5. Wipe Opti-Coat on a single panel at a time in a thin layer, spreading a very thin coat over the panel. For example apply up and down, then side to side, or in a circular pattern followed by side to side.

Note: Larger panels such as hoods should be applied as two separate sections

6. Alternative - transfer a small amount of Opti-Coat 2.0 into a fine mist atomizer spray bottle and mist the applicator.
7. Inspect the panel with adequate lighting within 5-10 minutes looking for any thick areas that have not flashed away to clear.
8. Use applicator or paint safe microfiber to even out (no pressure) any spots where you see streaks. This step is key, as any spots not levelled will have to be abrasively repaired is allowed to cure. Panels will feel a bit tacky and will be self -levelling during cure time, so avoid any unnecessary touching, wiping, or contact to produce the best results.
9. Repeat steps 1-6 for each panel where application is desired.
10. It can be exposed to water within an hour and washed within 12 hours. Full hardening will take place over a few days as it is exposed to heat.
11. With the new resin you can layer 2-3 coats after a full cure time of 12 hours each.
12. After applying OC and you notice a spot or two try using a light spray of Opti-Seal on the area, buff lightly with a soft clean towel
13. You can add a Carnauba wax or a polymer sealant for aesthetic purposes or as a sacrificial barrier, but be cognizant that contamination have a hard time adhering, so do waxes and paint sealants. The coating provides a very smooth surface and therefore the micro pores available for adhesion are very limited.

Opti-Coat Application Methods-


Notes:
1. Take care to get complete coverage in your initial application
2. Optimum Finish (an abrasive fine finishing polish) used with a finishing pad will fix a high spot without having to reapply.
3. Wrap a foam applicator in a plastic baggie and then cover it with micro fibre and sew it together. That way you eliminate the product saturation into the foam.
4. Opti- Coat has no lubricity, will flash faster via machine, and will likely allow the pad to mar as it becomes "tacky". OC should only be applied by wiping on, or by spraying on.
5. Save time and prevent waste with the Optimum Spray Gun. Connect this heavy duty air gun connects to your compressor to deliver thin, even coats. This application technique uses a fraction of the product compared to sponge o foam pad application.
6. The professional version, Opti-Guard cures in 30 minutes, Opti-Coat 2.0 requires 12 hour (dependent upon ambient conditions)
7. It can be exposed to water within an hour and washed within 12 hours. Full dehydration / hardening will take place over a few days as it is exposed to heat.
8. Opti- Coat takes 90 days to fully cross-link (cure)

Distributors - http://www.optimumcarcare.com/distributers.php?li=1
 
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