Got a flat on one of my rear Pirelli's last weekend. The hole was so big (the nail or bolt was not in the tire) that the tire sealant wouldn't work. I had no idea how big the hole was until I got the tire off the car. And getting one of these cars jacked off the ground with a flat tire is nearly impossible without something else to get the car off the ground (we used a scissor jack so we could get the race jack underneath).

Anyway, I ended up ordering 4 new MPSC's since they couldn't get me new Pirelli's. I asked them to check the alignment and set it up for a track/circuit alignment. First of all, they couldn't find the alignment settings until I showed up at 5:30 to pick it up. Once I told them it was in the manual they laughed.

I learned a few things that I wanted to share with the group. Some may already know some of these things- so I'm sorry for the repost.

My car came from the factory with a alignment set up that was even softer than the street settings in the manual.

STOCK alignment:
FRONT LEFT: -1.41
FRONT RIGHT: -1.23
REAR LEFT: -1.76
REAR RIGHT: -1.68

Upon speaking with the tech and telling him that I wanted a full race alignment per the manual I was informed it was not possible without shims for the control arms.

Apparently, these cars are fully adjustable. But in order to get the most adjustment from the cars some additional parts may be necessary. My tech informed me that he could go the full negative camber the manual called for in the rear no problem. However, he was maxed out in the front. He said the fine adjustments was maxed out and the most we were getting in the front was -1.81. That was when he informed me that Porsche Motorsport makes shims that fit inside the control arm (which is a two-piece setup). Once the shims are set inside the control arm and re-connected, the fine tuning then allows for greater adjustment and more camber.

I decided to leave the front camber maxxed out without the shims. And instead of maxxing out the rear I went with a proportional change from front to rear. So whatever the difference was in the front, factory to -1.81, a proportionate amount was put in the rear. I figured I would leave it at this setup for the time being until I get enough time behind the wheel to offer some feedback on this particular setup. It will also be kinder to my new tires.

CURRENT Alignment:
FRONT LEFT: -1.81
FRONT RIGHT: -1.81
TOE FL: 0.05
TOE FR: 0.05

REAR LEFT: -2.09
REAR RIGHT: -2.07
TOE RL: 0.20
TOE RR: 0.15

Here is a pdf of my alignment for download.

Initial impressions are WOW. The car was great before but the response is truly amazing. The car feels much more nimble. It feels much more responsive mid-corner. Car still wants a little push with throttle, but I can feel the throttle-induced rotation much more now and have noticed I have to be extra careful with regards to streering input. Before I waited for the car to stop pushing before I opened up. Now, if I don't open up, the car wants to rotate. Perfect if you ask me. Finally allows me to learn what this car can do. I thought the car was fast before...impressive how a few days without the car makes this thing feel like a freakin' time machine when you get back in it.

 

Looking at the sheet you provided everything looks ok, except I dont understand why the left rear toe has to be out of range? It seems like it was fine before, but after they adjusted the camber it seems like they didnt re-adjust the toe. With that it throws your total toe off also. Is there a reason for that set up?

 

Do you drive on the street on your race alignment? I was wondering if this might be a safety issue as I have a race alignment as well...