Need to replace 2011 Panamera Turbo Brakes
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 34
From: Virginia
Rep Power: 12
So the warranty company is Continental Warranty Inc. and when this issue happened on my 11' 4S, I had 68K miles on my car. So I was past the factory warranty and my car wasn't a CPO vehicle when I bought it back in 2013...lesson learned.
CWI was willing to cover the cost of parts and labor on a used engine with = or less miles than mine. I weighed the pros and cons of putting in a used engine and unloading the car or dropping the extra money on a new engine. After pricing out options and other factors that weighed into my decision, I ended up going for the new engine.
The reason I had to pay so much out of pocket though was actually because of the dealership that did the work. If you look up scam artist in the dictionary (aka Wikipedia) you would find this dealership (PoA). CWI actually ended up increasing their total amount towards the total cost by 3K but my dealership kept inflating their "estimated cost to repair the car" and would never commit a total estimate for the repair. I asked for a hard copy of the estimate and the only thing they provided me was a list price of parts. They gave me some bs that they could not provide me hours to do the work or the discounted price on the parts (like refund on the engine core).
I brought in lots of paperwork backing up what the cost should be and when I got the final bill, nothing was itemized and my bill stated that "Customer agreed to pay deductible of $6700 (which I didn't and they have no documentation that I ever agreed to this). That is why I will never buy or take either of my cars back to that dealership.
CWI was willing to cover the cost of parts and labor on a used engine with = or less miles than mine. I weighed the pros and cons of putting in a used engine and unloading the car or dropping the extra money on a new engine. After pricing out options and other factors that weighed into my decision, I ended up going for the new engine.
The reason I had to pay so much out of pocket though was actually because of the dealership that did the work. If you look up scam artist in the dictionary (aka Wikipedia) you would find this dealership (PoA). CWI actually ended up increasing their total amount towards the total cost by 3K but my dealership kept inflating their "estimated cost to repair the car" and would never commit a total estimate for the repair. I asked for a hard copy of the estimate and the only thing they provided me was a list price of parts. They gave me some bs that they could not provide me hours to do the work or the discounted price on the parts (like refund on the engine core).
I brought in lots of paperwork backing up what the cost should be and when I got the final bill, nothing was itemized and my bill stated that "Customer agreed to pay deductible of $6700 (which I didn't and they have no documentation that I ever agreed to this). That is why I will never buy or take either of my cars back to that dealership.
Last edited by my_tom_a; Aug 13, 2015 at 07:17 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 214
Rep Power: 20
So the warranty company is Continental Warranty Inc. and when this issue happened on my 11' 4S, I had 68K miles on my car. So I was past the factory warranty and my car wasn't a CPO vehicle when I bought it back in 2013...lesson learned.
CWI was willing to cover the cost of parts and labor on a used engine with = or less miles than mine. I weighed the pros and cons of putting in a used engine and unloading the car or dropping the extra money on a new engine. After pricing out options and other factors that weighed into my decision, I ended up going for the new engine.
The reason I had to pay so much out of pocket though was actually because of the dealership that did the work. If you look up scam artist in the dictionary (aka Wikipedia) you would find this dealership (PoA). CWI actually ended up increasing their total amount towards the total cost by 3K but my dealership kept inflating their "estimated cost to repair the car" and would never commit a total estimate for the repair. I asked for a hard copy of the estimate and the only thing they provided me was a list price of parts. They gave me some bs that they could not provide me hours to do the work or the discounted price on the parts (like refund on the engine core).
I brought in lots of paperwork backing up what the cost should be and when I got the final bill, nothing was itemized and my bill stated that "Customer agreed to pay deductible of $6700 (which I didn't and they have no documentation that I ever agreed to this). That is why I will never buy or take either of my cars back to that dealership.
CWI was willing to cover the cost of parts and labor on a used engine with = or less miles than mine. I weighed the pros and cons of putting in a used engine and unloading the car or dropping the extra money on a new engine. After pricing out options and other factors that weighed into my decision, I ended up going for the new engine.
The reason I had to pay so much out of pocket though was actually because of the dealership that did the work. If you look up scam artist in the dictionary (aka Wikipedia) you would find this dealership (PoA). CWI actually ended up increasing their total amount towards the total cost by 3K but my dealership kept inflating their "estimated cost to repair the car" and would never commit a total estimate for the repair. I asked for a hard copy of the estimate and the only thing they provided me was a list price of parts. They gave me some bs that they could not provide me hours to do the work or the discounted price on the parts (like refund on the engine core).
I brought in lots of paperwork backing up what the cost should be and when I got the final bill, nothing was itemized and my bill stated that "Customer agreed to pay deductible of $6700 (which I didn't and they have no documentation that I ever agreed to this). That is why I will never buy or take either of my cars back to that dealership.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 480
From: E.U.
Rep Power: 30
Front: 97035194901
Rear: 97035294703
&
Front: 97035194803
Rear: 99135294803
As we can see it is 'a bit messed up'
Unless Turbo & Turbo S has different PCCBs 
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 214
From: Greenwich, CT
Rep Power: 26
I want to replace my rear brake pads on my 2013 Panny GTS with something aftermarket. The OEM pads squeak too much and throw off way too much dust!
After much research, I bought a set of Disc Italia Titanium Kevlar pads for both front and rear. The front pads fit perfectly fine and are fantastic! No more squeaking and essentially zero dust! They are incredible!
The rear Disc Italia pads aren’t fitting according to my independent installer. He said the notch in the pad is in the wrong location.
Can someone tell me where the notch in the OEM rear brake pad should be? I’ve searched on the internet and I find conflicting evidence. On Suncoast’s website, the OEM rear pad shows the notch off to the right side of the outer part of the pad.
http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/97035294904.html
On Pelican’s website, they show the notch for the rear pad in the center!
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item0
The Disc Italia pads have the notch in the center, but my installer says they don’t fit and the notch is not in the correct spot. I didn’t get to see it for myself, so I have to trust that my installer is right….but is he???
Can someone please tell me where the notch is supposed to be on the rear pads for 2013 Panamera GTS?
I have to get this resolved quickly!
Thanks!
After much research, I bought a set of Disc Italia Titanium Kevlar pads for both front and rear. The front pads fit perfectly fine and are fantastic! No more squeaking and essentially zero dust! They are incredible!
The rear Disc Italia pads aren’t fitting according to my independent installer. He said the notch in the pad is in the wrong location.
Can someone tell me where the notch in the OEM rear brake pad should be? I’ve searched on the internet and I find conflicting evidence. On Suncoast’s website, the OEM rear pad shows the notch off to the right side of the outer part of the pad.
http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/97035294904.html
On Pelican’s website, they show the notch for the rear pad in the center!
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item0
The Disc Italia pads have the notch in the center, but my installer says they don’t fit and the notch is not in the correct spot. I didn’t get to see it for myself, so I have to trust that my installer is right….but is he???
Can someone please tell me where the notch is supposed to be on the rear pads for 2013 Panamera GTS?
I have to get this resolved quickly!
Thanks!
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 95
From: Houston
Rep Power: 17
I want to add to the confusion! 
For my 2010 Turbo I was looking for alternatives to Porsche original equipment prices ($800+ for a single front rotor
). The numbers are rounded and will not exactly add up, but I put them out there for a comparison. The numbers below include shipping to Houston. Suncoast was higher. The dealer will be much higher.
My assumption is that Zimmerman, Textar, and Pex are OE manufacturers for rotors, pads, and sensors (respectively) OR that they make comparable, "good enough" products to be a suitable replacement.
PartsGeek
Zimmerman Front Rotor (set) $500
Zimmerman Rear Rotor (set) $260
Textar Front Pad (set) $118
Textar Rear pad (set) $105
Pex Rear sensor (ea) $17
Total: $1000
Pelican
Zimmerman Front Rotor (set) $620
Zimmerman Rear Rotor (set) $300
Textar Front Pad (set) $128
Textar Rear pad (set) $136
Pex Rear sensor (ea) $16
Total: $1200
Edit: I wasn't clear in my post, but I used the above named items when I did rotors and pads.
For my 2010 Turbo I was looking for alternatives to Porsche original equipment prices ($800+ for a single front rotor). The numbers are rounded and will not exactly add up, but I put them out there for a comparison. The numbers below include shipping to Houston. Suncoast was higher. The dealer will be much higher. My assumption is that Zimmerman, Textar, and Pex are OE manufacturers for rotors, pads, and sensors (respectively) OR that they make comparable, "good enough" products to be a suitable replacement.
PartsGeek
Zimmerman Front Rotor (set) $500
Zimmerman Rear Rotor (set) $260
Textar Front Pad (set) $118
Textar Rear pad (set) $105
Pex Rear sensor (ea) $17
Total: $1000
Pelican
Zimmerman Front Rotor (set) $620
Zimmerman Rear Rotor (set) $300
Textar Front Pad (set) $128
Textar Rear pad (set) $136
Pex Rear sensor (ea) $16
Total: $1200
Edit: I wasn't clear in my post, but I used the above named items when I did rotors and pads.
Last edited by iammulva; May 9, 2016 at 09:45 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 158
From: Queens
Rep Power: 17
Just change my GTS front brakes and Rotors and install myself for $700. Get Zimmerman Rotors it's pretty good but the TRW pads are make noise when coming to stop. Easy install but you might need someone to give you a hand. Those part are heavy. Good luck
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 36
From: Seattle, WA
Rep Power: 14
Are the Zimmerman front GTS/Turbo rotors floating mount? They look like it from what pics I can find on the web, but online retailers have conflicting descriptions. CarID for example describes them as both "1-piece" and "floating mounting." I'm not sure how it's possible to have a 1-piece rotor that is floating mount, but perhaps somebody could explain this to me.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 145
From: deep south
Rep Power: 0
I want to add to the confusion! For my 2010 Turbo I was looking for alternatives to Porsche original equipment prices ($800+ for a single front rotor). The numbers are rounded and will not exactly add up, but I put them out there for a comparison. The numbers below include shipping to Houston. Suncoast was higher. The dealer will be much higher.
My assumption is that Zimmerman, Textar, and Pex are OE manufacturers for rotors, pads, and sensors (respectively) OR that they make comparable, "good enough" products to be a suitable replacement.
PartsGeek
Zimmerman Front Rotor (set) $500
Zimmerman Rear Rotor (set) $260
Textar Front Pad (set) $118
Textar Rear pad (set) $105
Pex Rear sensor (ea) $17
Total: $1000
Pelican
Zimmerman Front Rotor (set) $620
Zimmerman Rear Rotor (set) $300
Textar Front Pad (set) $128
Textar Rear pad (set) $136
Pex Rear sensor (ea) $16
Total: $1200
Edit: I wasn't clear in my post, but I used the above named items when I did rotors and pads.
For my 2010 Turbo I was looking for alternatives to Porsche original equipment prices ($800+ for a single front rotor). The numbers are rounded and will not exactly add up, but I put them out there for a comparison. The numbers below include shipping to Houston. Suncoast was higher. The dealer will be much higher. My assumption is that Zimmerman, Textar, and Pex are OE manufacturers for rotors, pads, and sensors (respectively) OR that they make comparable, "good enough" products to be a suitable replacement.
PartsGeek
Zimmerman Front Rotor (set) $500
Zimmerman Rear Rotor (set) $260
Textar Front Pad (set) $118
Textar Rear pad (set) $105
Pex Rear sensor (ea) $17
Total: $1000
Pelican
Zimmerman Front Rotor (set) $620
Zimmerman Rear Rotor (set) $300
Textar Front Pad (set) $128
Textar Rear pad (set) $136
Pex Rear sensor (ea) $16
Total: $1200
Edit: I wasn't clear in my post, but I used the above named items when I did rotors and pads.
any update on this for others
is this the way to go now?
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