DIY brake fluid change
#1
DIY brake fluid change
So it is the same as on my 997. Same size tools etc...
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...uid-flush.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...uid-flush.html
#3
Less than 2 hours start to clean up.... Removing wheels, jacking up car is the most time consuming.
#5
Question for those who did this themselves, the service manual indicates 2.0 bar (29PSI) of pressure. Most articles I've seen are 7-10psi, maybe 15. Did anyone do 29psi like the FSM recommends? Anyone do it without removing the wheels?
The brake fluid change interval is two years using Super DOT 4 brake fluid.
This brake fluid is available under the following part numbers: Quantity supplied: 1 liter = 000.043.203.66; 30 liters = 000.043.203.67.
Drain brake fluid from every brake calliper at both bleeder valves.
There are two bleeder valves on the brake calliper. Brake fluid must be drained at both bleeder valves. Observe specified sequence: Bleed the outer bleeder valve first.
1. Connect bleeding device to the brake fluid reservoir.
2. Switch on the bleeding device. Bleeding pressure is approx. 2.0 bar.
3. Continue changing the brake fluid at the brake callipers. Do so in the following sequence: rear right/rear left/front right/front left.
4. Open every bleeder valve until clear, bubble-free brake fluid emerges and until the corresponding change quantity per brake calliper is reached (approx. 250 cm ).
5. Use a transparent hose and a collecting bottle to check the escaping brake fluid for cleanliness, absence of air bubbles and to determine the amount of brake fluid used.
6. Tighten the bleeder valves to the specified tightening torque .
7. Switch off the bleeding device and remove the adapter at the reservoir. The brake fluid level in the reservoir must be between the MIN and MAX markings once the vehicle has been filled and bled -arrow- . Adjust the brake fluid level if necessary
The brake fluid change interval is two years using Super DOT 4 brake fluid.
This brake fluid is available under the following part numbers: Quantity supplied: 1 liter = 000.043.203.66; 30 liters = 000.043.203.67.
Drain brake fluid from every brake calliper at both bleeder valves.
There are two bleeder valves on the brake calliper. Brake fluid must be drained at both bleeder valves. Observe specified sequence: Bleed the outer bleeder valve first.
1. Connect bleeding device to the brake fluid reservoir.
2. Switch on the bleeding device. Bleeding pressure is approx. 2.0 bar.
3. Continue changing the brake fluid at the brake callipers. Do so in the following sequence: rear right/rear left/front right/front left.
4. Open every bleeder valve until clear, bubble-free brake fluid emerges and until the corresponding change quantity per brake calliper is reached (approx. 250 cm ).
5. Use a transparent hose and a collecting bottle to check the escaping brake fluid for cleanliness, absence of air bubbles and to determine the amount of brake fluid used.
6. Tighten the bleeder valves to the specified tightening torque .
7. Switch off the bleeding device and remove the adapter at the reservoir. The brake fluid level in the reservoir must be between the MIN and MAX markings once the vehicle has been filled and bled -arrow- . Adjust the brake fluid level if necessary
Last edited by tallpaul; 03-02-2019 at 08:45 AM.
#6
I think it s easier to take off wheels but have done other cars from under side with wheels on. Look at the bleeder valve locations (2 per wheel) and see if you feel you can get tools etc you need in there . If car was on a lift I d be more likely to try that way. Also depends on the wheels you have and how large the openings are on your design.
#6. if you think you are going to get a torque wrench in there it won t happen with the wheels on.
Don t let the reservoir run low or you ll put air in the system and make problems for yourself.
I doubt anyone uses a torque wrench. They don t get tightened like crazy. a small box wrench and just snug . They will strip and are very soft.
#6. if you think you are going to get a torque wrench in there it won t happen with the wheels on.
Don t let the reservoir run low or you ll put air in the system and make problems for yourself.
I doubt anyone uses a torque wrench. They don t get tightened like crazy. a small box wrench and just snug . They will strip and are very soft.
Last edited by cerbomark; 03-02-2019 at 09:37 AM.
#7
I'm guessing you didn't need to pressurize to 29psi then.
In regards to space for #6 - Eh, I've done lots of brake bleeds on Brembo systems on other cars, pretty sure I never once got a torque wrench out for that. Not like we're putting on head bolts or wheels....
In regards to space for #6 - Eh, I've done lots of brake bleeds on Brembo systems on other cars, pretty sure I never once got a torque wrench out for that. Not like we're putting on head bolts or wheels....
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#8
And no I ve used around 10 PSI on my pressure type bleeder and the other bleeder uses suction from the compressor . Don t need much PSI at all, it will just come out a little slower.
#9
Don't forget to do an integrity check on your Motive bleeder tubing!
About a year or so ago, I was doing my girlfriend's brake fluid flush (usually between 12-20psi) and just minding my own business when the tubes from the Motive container exploded. Sent brake fluid everywhere! Can't remember how old the bleeder is, but I'd guess at least 10 years. After that happened I ordered replacement tubes and the german single use hose clamps from Motive to re-tube the container. Works like a champ again. I did another flush yesterday and still had bits of the old hoses in the cabinet and they are oddly stiff/spongy and crack/disintegrate pretty easily.
About a year or so ago, I was doing my girlfriend's brake fluid flush (usually between 12-20psi) and just minding my own business when the tubes from the Motive container exploded. Sent brake fluid everywhere! Can't remember how old the bleeder is, but I'd guess at least 10 years. After that happened I ordered replacement tubes and the german single use hose clamps from Motive to re-tube the container. Works like a champ again. I did another flush yesterday and still had bits of the old hoses in the cabinet and they are oddly stiff/spongy and crack/disintegrate pretty easily.
#11
Don't forget to do an integrity check on your Motive bleeder tubing!
About a year or so ago, I was doing my girlfriend's brake fluid flush (usually between 12-20psi) and just minding my own business when the tubes from the Motive container exploded. Sent brake fluid everywhere! Can't remember how old the bleeder is, but I'd guess at least 10 years. After that happened I ordered replacement tubes and the german single use hose clamps from Motive to re-tube the container. Works like a champ again. I did another flush yesterday and still had bits of the old hoses in the cabinet and they are oddly stiff/spongy and crack/disintegrate pretty easily.
About a year or so ago, I was doing my girlfriend's brake fluid flush (usually between 12-20psi) and just minding my own business when the tubes from the Motive container exploded. Sent brake fluid everywhere! Can't remember how old the bleeder is, but I'd guess at least 10 years. After that happened I ordered replacement tubes and the german single use hose clamps from Motive to re-tube the container. Works like a champ again. I did another flush yesterday and still had bits of the old hoses in the cabinet and they are oddly stiff/spongy and crack/disintegrate pretty easily.