Chassis System Failure
BOYS!!!!!! I was able to diagnose a problem on my own after getting two different independents to have a look over... Both shops recommended getting the shocks replaced... however, I know damn well that the shocks are perfectly fine.... So I went ahead and followed CIAKA's Workflow to diagnose and i found out that I had a simple Cracked Connector plug to the shock itself! I would get random Chassis System Failure on very cold days and finally it just stayed that way... I also checked on my two other friend's with PASM as well with higher mileage and the wire clips ALL were slightly broken or very brittle! I solved the problem with $7 from Fry's Electronics... basically used a 5" Male to Female jumper wires for motherboards which connects perfectly and protects from shorting out inside of the strut..... I'll post pictures very soon, but I literally just solved it right now and the Chassis System Failure went away and all the functions work again perfectly! Porsche NA is gonna hate me for this one as I have a feeling that they get customers to just get a replacement strut and while they are at it, they replace the wire connector part which I think can be ordered, however, I'll look at the wire connector part and see if I can find a corresponding part number...
I was wondering if you ever fixed your problem?? I just hit a bump in the road in my Porsce and the same error light came on and now there's something leaking from the bottom
If something is leaking you should find out what it is asap.
Smell the fluid. If smells sweet potent, and is pinkish, likely engine coolant. Bad, get it fixed.
If brownish and smells like oil, its engine oil. Can be bad if lots coming out. Need to find leak and fix so oil does not escape and engine overheats.
If grayish brown and chemical smelling, likely transmission fluid. Bad, needs to be fixed, last thing you need is 20k trannie to blow up.
If light colored and very potent smelling, could be brake fluid. Corrosive and if lots coming out, braking can fail.
if wet but has no smell to it and not greasy (feels like water), it is likely condensation from your ac (this is good - only fluid you want to see on driveway, in which case no worries from you).
Smell the fluid. If smells sweet potent, and is pinkish, likely engine coolant. Bad, get it fixed.
If brownish and smells like oil, its engine oil. Can be bad if lots coming out. Need to find leak and fix so oil does not escape and engine overheats.
If grayish brown and chemical smelling, likely transmission fluid. Bad, needs to be fixed, last thing you need is 20k trannie to blow up.
If light colored and very potent smelling, could be brake fluid. Corrosive and if lots coming out, braking can fail.
if wet but has no smell to it and not greasy (feels like water), it is likely condensation from your ac (this is good - only fluid you want to see on driveway, in which case no worries from you).
BOYS!!!!!! I was able to diagnose a problem on my own after getting two different independents to have a look over... Both shops recommended getting the shocks replaced... however, I know damn well that the shocks are perfectly fine.... So I went ahead and followed CIAKA's Workflow to diagnose and i found out that I had a simple Cracked Connector plug to the shock itself! I would get random Chassis System Failure on very cold days and finally it just stayed that way... I also checked on my two other friend's with PASM as well with higher mileage and the wire clips ALL were slightly broken or very brittle! I solved the problem with $7 from Fry's Electronics... basically used a 5" Male to Female jumper wires for motherboards which connects perfectly and protects from shorting out inside of the strut..... I'll post pictures very soon, but I literally just solved it right now and the Chassis System Failure went away and all the functions work again perfectly! Porsche NA is gonna hate me for this one as I have a feeling that they get customers to just get a replacement strut and while they are at it, they replace the wire connector part which I think can be ordered, however, I'll look at the wire connector part and see if I can find a corresponding part number...
Maybe your friends diag solution does not clear the errors. I dont know what it is, I use Durametric, which I know clears errors.
If you resolved the issue with connector, and there is nothing else causing this, then the diag solution does not clear.
If you resolved the issue with connector, and there is nothing else causing this, then the diag solution does not clear.
he's getting errors because he replace the air struts with an aftermarket setup
Weeeeeelllll,
that will be hard to pd. Sensors height. Internal shock valves and electrical connections, compatibility with ecu, etc etc.
Because too many unknowns, not sure anyone will be able to help unless they are at the car. Most Porsche owners just replace with genuine parts due to complexity.
I would just get out dmm, tape measure and start testing and comparing to stock.
the vendor should give support related to panamera if it is stated compatible with the model and year.
that will be hard to pd. Sensors height. Internal shock valves and electrical connections, compatibility with ecu, etc etc.
Because too many unknowns, not sure anyone will be able to help unless they are at the car. Most Porsche owners just replace with genuine parts due to complexity.
I would just get out dmm, tape measure and start testing and comparing to stock.
the vendor should give support related to panamera if it is stated compatible with the model and year.
When I replaced the HPFP instructions note to disconnect two connections to the air struts on each side to prevent from accidentally damaging the connectors. I forget why I decided to turn Ig-ON but I did, and got the obvious chassis system failure because I forgot to reconnect them. The answer to the "million dollar question" is that the error goes away once you repair the damage. You don't need something to clear the codes to get it to go away. I plugged them back in and next time I turned Ig-ON no more chassis system failure. You can use this to figure out if you've actually solved your issue or not, sans any OBDII tool...
Just get the Chassis System Failure message on my Pan 2010 4S with front suspension at lowest position and rear at normal. After several forums and youtube search, found one that get the solution, it was the air pump 40 amp fuse broke. This fuse is located at the battery area. There are two of them, one for the pump and the other for the Emergency Brake. I'd interchanged the fuses and the suspension was reset at normal position, everything works as expected.
Just get the Chassis System Failure message on my Pan 2010 4S with front suspension at lowest position and rear at normal. After several forums and youtube search, found one that get the solution, it was the air pump 40 amp fuse broke. This fuse is located at the battery area. There are two of them, one for the pump and the other for the Emergency Brake. I'd interchanged the fuses and the suspension was reset at normal position, everything works as expected.
@psuperti I'm afraid my PIWIS computer bricked otherwise I'd look up those codes. Tech support confirmed software issue I had to order a replacement SSD and now I have a long wait as I was too cheap to pay for expedited shipping.
If you clear the codes do they immediately come back (with the new battery that is)?
If you clear the codes do they immediately come back (with the new battery that is)?
hey new user here don't know if you've taken it to shop yet but they'll recommend changing both out since they regularly go bad in pairs, replaced both of mine last year and quality and ride similar, very easy job if you are mechanically inclined and you'll save thousands, for me ,when I sent my 4s to porsche to diagnose problem, they recommended complete replacement of entire suspension system a little under 14000.00 needless to say I did repair myself turned out it was simply faulty level sensor, so beware of porsche and check it out yourself.
I just want to say a huge thanks to ciaka for the awesome write-up, I've used it 4 times now and owe you a beer (or maybe a case of beer at this point). Quick version of my story: 2011 Panamera Turbo, air struts started failing 2 - 3 years ago, limped along with compressor keeping me afloat. Indy wanted $2,500+ for each side, ended up buying two of the Arnott rebuilds for the front. Took maybe 7 hours to do the first one with a buddy who's got all the tools, then 4-5 hours for the second. Sadly, the drivers side failed within 3-4 months. Arnott was great about the warranty, put a hold on my card, sent me a new one, replaced it (maybe 4 hours this time), sent it back. Replaced valve block at same time, but in hindsight, don't think that was necessary. Fast forward 2 years, drivers side started slowly failing again, called Arnott, took them a few weeks to find one, but they did the same credit card hold and we replaced this one in 3 hours.
Hopefully 4 replacements for 2 shocks is the magic number, but it's been fun hanging out with my buddy and working on it, we're just looking for a new challenge at this point, haha.
Hopefully 4 replacements for 2 shocks is the magic number, but it's been fun hanging out with my buddy and working on it, we're just looking for a new challenge at this point, haha.





