After frustrating night, edit to post:

Decided to swap out front passenger air shock, because noticed that when I sprayed soapy water onto top of shock, it would bubble from under the shock damper nut (middle nut topside of shock). This would sag my front when left overnight or for several hours parked.
Wanted to swap out so the compressor does not get burned out overworking to pump shocks every morning and afternoon.
Before doing the work, compressor would eventually pump gas into front shocks, and it would eventually go up, even though took time to get this to occur. Probably up to 5 minutes before I got to be able to raise car to high setting, but would work fine.

Shock arrived. Swap out was fairly straight forward. Also swapped out upper control arm while I was at it (yes, the shock must come out to do this - because of the way the side arm bolts are located, nut on outside of arm, bolt on inside facing shock wall).
Connected the 4 wires at top of shock (I dont think there is a way to connect these wires wong - even though two are 2 wire connections, and then the air line, and another sensor). Maybe one of you knows better.
Anyways, everything put together, car was still on car jacks, preset to height normal to when driving.
I turned the car on, and eventually heard compressor turn on but for a short time. Assumed it is because car is on jacks still and does not detect the low height.
Turned car off, lowered the car off the jacks. Got back in. Started. Within about 1 min heard the compressor kick in. Saw car raise a little while sitting inside.
Opened the door few times to try to set more compressor work. It was hard to hear the compressor with the car running.
Eventually I saw the car raise a couple more times, but the height of the car did not go to what I expected it to.
Gently backed out of driveway, very slowly drove straight line and back into garage. This did not raise the car at all.
At that time, the car was not raising anymore. All the way down on front both sides.


Since compressor was working before the swap, my thinking is it would be too coincidental to have compressor go out.
Same with valve block. Way too far to be affected.
The only things I can think of are:
- relay replacement
- compressor refresh to do
- sensors on shock not working right or not connecting right



Had suspension failure red icon on display. Cleared with Durametric, but appears to come back.
Errors are in PASM area:
789 / 315


Also just spoke to the shock folks and they say the sensors need to be calibrated. Guess it is a possibility, but wonder how likely.
Would have to tow car to a shop. Really irritating.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

There was a compressor relay update. I cant remember the part number.

But remember this. With these cars, they system is filled with nitrogen.

I have replaced both my front shocks (not be personally, but an independant garage) and what you need to do is lift the car off the ground, and charge it with nitrogen when there is no pressure on the system.

There is a procedure to it. I dont know the exact procedure, but im sure one could find it.
Its a closed system, and apparently doesnt draw air from the atmosphere.

Antoher thing that as faulty on mine was the valve distribution block. That was leaking too, giving the illusion of a faulty airbag.

 

Relay is a possibility but all a relay does, is connect a circuit to power or disconnect. Gets energized and closes circuit, and when needed, gets un energized disconnecting the circuit. So relay bad is a longer shot.
Yes, they say closed system with Nitrogen but many reported speaking with mechanics who say it will run just fine with regular air too.
Yes, FSM states 249psi max pressure in system, but way too many have indicated no issues after replacement, that I find it less likely too.

My first thoughts - the sensors not working fine (which would support the shock tech speaking to calibration). Two sensors on shock.
Will do more PD today. Hope something I can fix, I will be pissed if I cannot fix this.

 

You've probably already seen this, but it seems to apply to your situation
"Calibration must be performed if one or more of the following situations apply:
Control unit was replaced.
Level sensors were replaced.
Vehicle lies to one side after being raised. Lifting platform mode may still be activated. If this is the
case, a test drive must be carried out with the vehicle (this deactivates lifting platform mode). And
the vehicle automatically adjusts to the correct level. Only calibrate the levelling system if this does
not work.
The level sensors are calibrated by determining a correction value (corresponding to the actual height of
the vehicle) and storing it permanently in the control unit."

 

you should be able to do the calibration with your durametric
https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/41315-durametric-coding-and-calibration/

making an assumption that it will work with Pan as well as Cayenne

 

Did you disable the suspension before putting it on the life/swapping it out? I didn't see that in the steps. If not, you may need to calibrate. Also, from what I can tell, the Durametric will not calibrate on the Panamera like it can on the older Cayenne's. It doesn't support any interactive features on the suspension.

 

well that is rather disappointing, you wouldn't think that they would be all that much different interface wise...

 

Both the FSM and training info I have been able to gather state the system is initially filled with N2 but has the ability to draw in air if the system loses its initial N2 charge. I wonder if the pressure in the system is so low it won't allow itself to recharge the entire system through the "intake filter". The FSM manual procedure looks pretty straightforward for purging / refilling the system with N2. (it is dry and does not promote corrosion). I'd pre-pressurize the system with least air (if you can't get N2) just as the FSM states and then see if the system can "reset" itself.

Could always use air to re-pressurize to see if it works and then purge and replace with N2 if the pressurizing solves the problem (to save the cost of N2 for the "testing").

Chuck

Some info from After Sales Training brochure on the suspension system.

 

Just few answers to several posts above:

- Suspension disabling: Yes, disabled suspension before doing the work. Re enabled after work done.
- Durametric for Cayenne on panamera: Dont think you can do this, when SW starts you must input what car you are connecting. If you choose wrong model, wont be able to communicate with car. Panamera does not have any options for level control except clear faults.
-Closed air suspension system: yes, aware of that, but hoped it would work, since others had success when replaced their shocks and just disconnected air, then re connected.

UPDATE: I was able to verify my air suspension compressor does work and is functional.
I managed to slip 2 low profile jacks under car and raise the front to level I measured before starting work.
Then connected durametric. Cleared faults.
Then was able to notice that suspension was disabled again (must have happened after suspension fault error was flagged). Pressed button for 10 s to enable suspension once again.
Then noticed compressor start pumping again. Both front and rear shocks were raised.
I stopped and started car 3 or 4 times, to see if compressor pumps up the shock on its own over time.
The rear seemed to have been adjusted properly. Front driver appeared to be slightly lower. Front passenger (where new shock is), does not hold height.
After having compressor run few times, I lowered the jacks to see how the car would sit. Driver frt was lower but up a bit, pass frt kept going all the way down.
So the new shock is not getting pumped. It is possible that the system does not have enough pressure to pump up the frt pass. shock.

Spoke to shock person, who states calibration is needed especially in Panamera. I was hoping to go without the calibration, as this will require me to get towing to my house, get the car over 40 miles to shop. Still trying to find solutions for pumping. If you have any suggestions, keep em coming. I will be trying again today.

One thing I may try just thinking about it now (please stop me if you dont think good idea):
Maybe what I should do is disconnect the air line, raise car up as high as can to extend the shock and put air volume into it.

Then connect line back and lower the car. Some of the air volume will be part of the gas volume, and could at least allow drivability. What do you think?

 

Thanks Chuck, looked through the info a while back.
Spoke to couple mechanics, they all say system not closed, compressor has inlet with filter to draw air. So would explain your info too.
I am unable to raise.


Tried to raise car, remove line, to see if shock expands. No. Shock not expanding.
Noticed when disconnected line from shock there was no compressed air in it.
That was after compressor ran couple times already (and ran a couple times previous day too).

So thinking is, either the block or compressor not working right. There is nothing else that can go wrong here.
ECU working since does give me warnings chassis failure, if I raise on jacks, I can press button to raise suspension to high, even though I do it on jacks to simulate, so ECU does work.
Mechanical connection to upper arm was re checked. Seemed just fine, cleaned contacts just in case.
Reseated top of shock connections too.

My next move - replace valve block and/or compressor rod/seals with rebuild kit. My logic is, even though compressor working, may not be generating pressure (although thinking why the back would raise then).
Compressor seemed to sound differently too over last week or so (along with the typical pumping noise, noticed a deeper sound associated with it).
I assume my newly installed shock is fine (no reason to doubt it at this time). Re checked all connections, disconnected shock from air line, after compressor ran for a while, and noticed there was very little pressure in the line (almost no hiss of air at all). So if no pressure in line, either valve block not opening, or compressor not generating.

Let me know what you think about this.

 

I really don't think you need to calibrate.

See following from FSM:Please keep us informed as to progress - all DIY owners with air suspension will face this at some time if they own the car long enough.

 

I sure will keep updated. Wanted to do that, but reading the FSM, it says that you connect the tank with regulator (no more than 17bar or 249psi), to front passenger shock air line, and then you have to follow on screen instructions on the PIWIS2 system. The FSM does not contain those instructions. Even if it did, I would not be able to do anything.
My assumption is that the FSM tells you to go to a section where you can open/close valves on the valve block, so that the air from regulator can fill the tank. If my thinking is not right, let me know.
After I thought about it for a while, also did not think I should have calibrated as the shock has 2 sensors, one for height sense of shock, and another for controlling the shock air valve (per seller of shock - RMT).

Thanks for continued help.

 

I think you nailed the biggest issue ciaka, refilling requires controlling the valve block. It seems to be a simple(ish) valve setup - might be possible to create a small set of switches to manually control the valves for refill in the home shop.
you can pickup a used one from fleabay for ~$100, might be time to put that engineering mind to work

I suspect those that have had success changed out the right front strut..........

 

Starting to think valve block is my big problem here. Compressor running, starts/stops, means it levels off the main tank OK.
After compressor ran, I raised car and disconnected air line from shock I just replaced. There was no compressed air in it. I take it to mean valve block does not open to let the air into shock. Even if valve at shock fails in closed position, if valve block valve working OK, it would open allowing compressed air into line. So when the valve block valve closes, the line has compressed air in it. I did not notice that. Makes me think the valve block not opening that line up. Just wonder why so coincidentally block stops working when shock replaced. Hmm. Will update when I know more.

 

I would be worried that without the ability to precharge the system you'll be asking a lot from the pump - maybe too much if you swap out the block and lose what pressure you have.

hmm, the pump has a air intake, perhaps if you could attach a pressurized line to that you could take some of the effort away from the pump (I've done similar with my PCP air rifle pump which pumps the rifle to 300 bar)