P4S 2010 Should I Fix or Should I Sell?
new panamera will certainly cost a pretty penny. But I can't imagine the cost of a repaint. maybe a wrap would work if you need to change the color.
You won't get $25K for the car with all those warning lights on - nobody will buy it. I've been trying to sell mine (basalt black btw!) and these are rather hard cars to sell from my experience so far. A 6+ year old high end German car - nobody wants to deal with the potential repair and maint cost on something like that so the values really plummet. Limited buyer pool.
I would take a crack at fixing it - maybe on a trade in a dealer won't sweat those lights since they can fix everything but probably won't get a fantastic trade value on it even in the best of circumstances.
You won't get $25K for the car with all those warning lights on - nobody will buy it. I've been trying to sell mine (basalt black btw!) and these are rather hard cars to sell from my experience so far. A 6+ year old high end German car - nobody wants to deal with the potential repair and maint cost on something like that so the values really plummet. Limited buyer pool.
I would take a crack at fixing it - maybe on a trade in a dealer won't sweat those lights since they can fix everything but probably won't get a fantastic trade value on it even in the best of circumstances.
As I am looking through your codes, I notice multiple errors related to charge, aka battery state. Porsches are very electronically complex. Once battery degrades, all sorts of errors start popping up. If your battery is more than 4 years old, I would just replace without thinking, to eliminate even small possibility of issues. Get large 1k cca batt.
Then, make sure you clear all errors using your diags package. I have Durametric. So clear all your errors. See what errors come back after driving a hundred miles or so. To check, turn car off, plug in cable, turn on car acc power only (do not start), engage the emergency blinkers - this forces continuous CANBUS comm in car). Then power your device and read out any codes left. Start addressing each after you classify them by function, fuel, charge/battery, evap, ignition, etc.
Good luck and keep posting up with updates. Important for new kids that are starting up on these cars.
Then, make sure you clear all errors using your diags package. I have Durametric. So clear all your errors. See what errors come back after driving a hundred miles or so. To check, turn car off, plug in cable, turn on car acc power only (do not start), engage the emergency blinkers - this forces continuous CANBUS comm in car). Then power your device and read out any codes left. Start addressing each after you classify them by function, fuel, charge/battery, evap, ignition, etc.
Good luck and keep posting up with updates. Important for new kids that are starting up on these cars.
that's good advice - I had a strange AC blower issue that happened only once that the dealer found several low voltage error codes for the AC blower. Not sure if those are codes you can read with a Durametric or whatever set-up you are using, I would assume those are on a body / chassis interface not the main engine ECM. Anyway - they cleared the codes and charged the battery and gave the car back to me and it's been fine ever since - that was 18 months ago. They recommended keeping the battery topped up via trickle charger every week - especially when it's not driven daily (which mine is never driven on a regular basis). So I have been keeping up on that practice as well. Car was just in for the recalls and the dealer checked battery condition and it was all good.
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