I took off the front bumper without removing the wheels. It made things a little tight when accessing 3 screws/bolts in the wheel well. I already replaced the main air filter, disconnect the connector to the garage opener underneath the lower half housing, unclip the wire/hose on the right air duct, remove the side air ducts, and then 8 Philips screws. On one kind of blocked by the hood release line you need a longer screwdriver. I pressed open the flaps for the aux filters and took a peek. They looked very clean in my opinion. Even the main filter looked quite clean/like it's been replaced before. I have the two auxiliary filters but with the wheels still on I'm not sure I'll be able to replace them easily. Hmmm...
Car was driving well until yesterday afternoon, got a rough/fluctuating idle. I thought it almost stalled once after a stop. Today as I was driving in the driveway I pulsed the gas pedal twice and it actually stalled! I let it glide into it's parking spot and turned off the car. I haven't gotten a chance to pull the codes yet.
There are codes but I do not think they relate to the stall. I am not able to completely clear the codes that were generated when I turned the IG ON without the front bumper, nor headlights. Still suspecting HPFP but I'm tired of all this. My old 190E has a stalling problem but it's a 1992, this is a 2013....
Wow @jzchen! Feel for you! Your GTS is always up to something. I’m surprised your wife hasn’t forced you to give it up...
I can’t be of any help here but I always read your threads to see where you’re at. Good luck!
I’ve been wanting to check out the ‘15 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT-8 at the local CarMax for a while now. But, I’ve been living with it, partly because I realized something....
Service items for my ‘14 Scion iQ on the left, oil filter and tire goo, $44 + shipping, $119 IIRC for the goo
Service items for the ‘13 Porsche Panamera GTS on the right, $11 at local AutoZone, $89 including tax for the goo.
Can now add P1027 to the list. Car stalled on me at a left turn lane on a busy street near work. I could not get it to restart. Called AAA for a tow. When the truck driver came he tried to start it and it started right up! (I told him I suspected the fuel pump). He asked me to make the left turn and stop on the side, then decide whether I would drive it or let him tow it. I had him tow it and gave him a little tip since nobody is allowed to ride in the truck for now...
Okay, car stalled twice today. It was somewhat difficult to get it started each time. Drove well in normal mode for about 9 miles. After filling the tank I decided to try Sport on the way home. No problems this time on the freeway. When I got off the freeway and stopped at the signal, I decided to try Sport + for the roughly 2.5 miles home. When I came to a stop about a quarter to half a mile at a stop light, car ran rough and I got start stop disabled warning, idled rough, then stalled. Turned on the hazards and waived the truck behind to go around. Switched to normal driving and gunned it to get accross the big street on green light. Engine ran somewhat rough the rest of the way home, luckily did not have to come to a complete stop until I needed to wait for the gate to open to the driveway. It stalled and was again somewhat difficult to restart. I drove to the back of the house where it's usually parked and stopped.
Engine off I pulled codes, strange maybe gurgling noise is coming from the engine, couldn't tell exactly where it was coming from.
The first two pictures are probably unrelated. I can not erase PCM/CDR codes as it is labeled in the menus. (Not sure about the "CDR" part). Electronic parking brake code pops up once in a while, especially for sure if you leave the parking brake on while running a scan.
I would suspect P0171 is related to P1027, fuel pressure drops, things will run lean.
Cool. I sometimes don't make a connection unless pointed out to me, just like in this case. There are three sources I've found for a lifetime warranted HPFP:. FCP Euro, eEuroparts, and Summit Racing. The first two are Porsche Genuine but have a core charge meaning rebuilt. The one from Summit is a Delphi HM10101 that is "product announced" on the Delphi website. Yesterday if I ordered expected ship date would be 06/01. Today that changed to 06/02. Would you trust a NEW Delphi unit, vs a rebuilt Genuine Porsche? Is this the fuel pump dying in the first place?
I was saving fuel pressure set point and actual fuel pressure on my Foxwell tool. I haven't found a good way to transfer to a spreadsheet except manually. When I get a chance I'll see if something's obvious. I don't know what I'm looking at...
Paid the piper so to speak. Instructions for replacing the high pressure fuel pump note to test the low pressure pump first. I may have gotten that set of instructions, pressure and quantity, but it was last minute when I finally found the section. Hopefully have all i need to sort things out.....
At $6xx the VAG tool to pressure test the LPFPs is too expensive. Then I thought about it and maybe the Harbor Freight $89.xx should likely work on Volkswagen, which a VAG tool would work on, (not Porsche specific). It's already closed for the day so I'll have to wait until tomorrow. It has a 20% restocking fee. If anyone has a warning against buying one please let me know?
