Thermostat Housing replacement : 2 Pannies tackled at the same time
Yes. I have reapplied the epoxy using JB Weld Original. It works. You have to be very patience. Don't rush it. The most critical step is cleaning and preparing the surfaces thoroughly.
Last edited by Nikita4Ever; Dec 25, 2021 at 12:28 AM.
I read this post and started thinking that this was something I would have to address as well. My 2011 4S has almost 90k miles on it so I was amazed it hasn't been a problem already. I decided to check through all my service records from the previous owner (I bought it used with 44k miles) anyway to my surprise I found that the last owner had the failure in late 2014 at only 36K miles and the dealership had done the repair using the updated thermostat housing!
So I'm good. Boy is that a relief.
So I'm good. Boy is that a relief.
If you tackle this job, I recommend getting replacement orings for the pipe that plugs into the back of the thermostat housing. On my 2014, they weren’t sealing well in the new housing. Also the pipe had to be bent slightly when extracting the housing because you can’t pull the housing far enough forward to release the pipe. You have to lift the housing and that permanently bends the pipe slightly. That slight distortion will preload the pipe against the housing when you reassemble so it would be prudent to get the flexibility that new orings provide. I viewed a video on line for the V6 and they had the same problem and they had to bend the pipe quite a bit more due to the shorter length. You could avoid this by disconnecting the pipe at the back of the engine but that is fraught with several additional challenges getting the access to torx bolt. Loosening the bolt would help but lots of stuff is in the way.
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Fabryce@GMGRacing
GT3/GT2
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Apr 7, 2010 11:06 AM




