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There's still a horrible amount of gunk still on the intake valves. Some are decently cleaned but some are still BAD. Is there a good tutorial on how to walnut blast them, without getting walnut into the combustion chamber?
Also, I sadly lost the clip into the abyss. I'm going to try to buy another connector and swap over the clip. Much easier to undo the clip this time. So easy it fell off into the abyss!
EDIT-. Probably best to put the part # for that connector here. I thought I put it in this thread but it seems I put it somewhere else:. 443-906-232 which is connector and clip. Clip swapped over easily on second attempt.
Luckily my wife did not kill me when she asked, so you didn't need that $1400 part? I said maybe not....
There's still a horrible amount of gunk still on the intake valves. Some are decently cleaned but some are still BAD. Is there a good tutorial on how to walnut blast them, without getting walnut into the combustion chamber?
Also, I sadly lost the clip into the abyss.
You'd better be damn sure you know where that clip went. Put your eyes on it and confirm it is not hiding in an intake port. That's an engine-killer. Also, you must use new intake mani seals. Now would also be a great time to address your t-stat housing and fix it correctly.
Re: Walnut blasting. There's a company online that makes a kit that makes quick work of it. I think it's like $75. The kit is really just a rubber radiator hose with a hole cut in the side, and a nozzle. Rotate the engine to TDC compression on that port. Stick one end of the hose in the port, hook the other end up to a shop vac. Stick the nozzle through the hole in the hose, and point it at the valve. Connect your media-blaster/compressor line to the nozzle and let it eat. Pull the rubber hose out every now and then to check progress.
Thank you for that very helpful advice. Yes I realize instructions say to pull that connection after lifting the manifold up, which could potentially send it down the right rear intake port. Luckily for me the manifold was still sitting in place when I used a plastic pry tool to pry the clip. It just wasn't stuck like the first time and popped out. I was trying to use the tool to push it back in unlocked position but it popped off instead. I looked for it down from the top because the car is sitting on the ground. Clip may be on the undertray.
I saw on YouTube a metal tool that you connect a vac and the sprayer at the same time to walnut blast the valves. I'm very concerned about not seeing TDC correctly and getting the shells into the combustion chamber...
From knowing my wife, she's fed up, meaning no go on the thermostat housing. After I get the clip from the dealer maybe tomorrow the parts guy says, put it back together, I'm quite confident she's going to trade it in somewhere. It's not going to pop off, still solidly attached. I checked.
After cleaning valves some more with CRC Intake Valve cleaner and my way overdue toothbrush, I put everything back together. She fired right up even though I had inadvertently added some amount of CRC cleaner into two cylinders. Let it idle in the driveway while I replaced the registration sticker. Opening the envelope I found the sticker already detached from the backing, but luckily not stuck to the envelope. Anyways she idled fine, so I took her to the touch free car wash that I like to go to. She's back!
You never cease to amaze me with your tenacity! Also, how can you part with your GTS now that you have a PIWIS 3? BTW...GTS is the best sounding stock Panamera by far! If you sell, your neighbours will miss their early morning wake up call when you leave the house!
Funny you mention this. First thing my wife asked after I got it started and went inside for the license plate sticker was:. "Are we ready to go to the dealer?"
Once I realized that I had left the high pressure sender connector loose, I understood I could not possibly blame the car for all this trouble, since I last had the intake manifold off. It's been long and torturous. I guess the reason I was getting all the strange and changing codes was that the connector was slowly working it's way loose, until it finally failed to make electrical contact. All my fault...
We'll see how things go. I told her she could take it to work tomorrow because I feel it is well enough for her to drive. Her quick response was "no", but maybe she'll change her mind.
The guided fault finding of the PIWIS was very helpful. I probably would have spent at least half that if I had brought it in. The reason I specifically bought from this company was that I can add other vehicle brands at minimal cost. (I think I'm too late to try to return it, plus the loss of shipping costs both ways I suspect). So the unit can be useful even if I no longer have a Porsche....
So after all this I’m still around. The car has finally got all it’s age related syndromes out of it. (I guess I can thank Tesla for not building her Model Y LR RWD as the reason we still have the GTS). Coming up on an oil change I really hope manually loosening all those undertray bolts doesn’t cause arm pain which lingered for months like last time, maybe I’ll rig the cordless drill to remove them this time.
Loose fuel sender connector was definitely the problem. I guess it never happens at the dealer because they didn’t catch my error. (Now where did I mention my last oil change which cleared the other issue)!
