I was wondering if anyone has any experience with this code on the Panamera turbo. Based on my general search on google it seems like my timing chain will have to be replace, but are there other failures that would cause this code to be thrown?

 

So, car is doing the following:

On cold start (and only after the car has sat overnight) when I start the car at first the Chassis System Failure, Start/Stop Failure, and AWD failure will come on but no CEL. If i shut the car off while cold, then restart, usually those lights will go away and the CEL will come on with a P0016 (From what i understand this usually means timing chain). However, if i let the car warm up to operating temps, shut it off and restart, the lights go away and no CEL. iCarsoft will show a pending P0016 code but the CEL will not go off. If i shut off the car again, the code disappears.

However, the interesting thing is that if i clear the code, or the code goes away, it will not come back until the next time i cold start (after sitting over night). Yesterday for example I drove 300 miles (shutting the car off 6-10 times to go shopping etc.) and the code did not come back. I even checked the iCarsoft and the code was not even stored.

I have a hard time believing it is the chain since the code does not come back when driving. I assume (as a non-mechanic) that if it was actually the chain, or a real mechanical issue, the CEL would immediately come back. I also noticed that when I start the car with the CEL on, before I reset it, the car clanks when it starts. When i clear the code it starts smooth and as normal.

I am taking it to the dealer on Wednesday for a diagnosis. Hopefully they are not quick to jump to a conclusion.

 

What are the year and miles your car have? Timing chains are generally not considered a "wear item" and only replaced when needed. they traditionally run 120K+. I'd consider more investigation unless you have a high milages.

 

I'm really interested to hear what the shop says. Given your other issues and symptoms, it acts like an electronic / voltage problem

 

it’s a 2010 turbo with 150k. Would be a little surprised if the timing chain actually needs replacement, but we shall see.

 

that was my first thought, when cold starting i sit at around 11.9/12 volts (prior to starting). Not sure if that is low or not but I’ll try plugging in the trickle charger tonight to see it that makes a difference.

 

Around 11.9/12 volts, before ignition start up is very normal, after you start the ignition you should be around 13.4-14 V. I don't think its a battery issue.

 

those are the volts I’m getting. I’m thinking it’s a sensor that doesn’t like the cold. I would assume that if it’s a bad/stretched chain the code would never go away. could be wrong but I guess we’ll see what the dealer says.

 

Yes, I would agree with you. Metal expands when hot so it makes sense that the code would not go away as it gets warmer unless it was tensioner related? Dunno... It's an interesting issue.

 

Definitely is, especially since it is so manipulative. Will report back with the dealer's findings...

 

Just heard back from the dealer. Irritatingly, they could not give me a definitive answer without first taking apart the valve covers (they could have told me before charging me $200 for nothing). Of course they hedged there bets and said that it could be timing chain, but they also mentioned a few times that it could be the solenoids. They said the best way to check it to take apart the top end, lock the camshafts and assess.

Given that I am only getting the Chassis and Drivetrain faults only when cold, and the CEL is only pending if i let the car warm up, I think ill drive the car until I get a more permanent sign (and I can save up ).

On the bright side, I set my personal best 60-130 last night... 9.32 (dragy verified)

 

Update---

After doing some analysis with my scanner I think i figured out the issue.... the camshaft angle deviation is too far out of spec when cold.

When cold starting, deviation sits around 11.5 degrees, once warms up (and a restart) deviation sits at a consistent 9.3 degrees. I appreciate that the 9.3 degrees is nothing to brag about either. This is only bank one, bank two deviation angle is -.3. While I checked the service manual, I couldn't find the Panamera acceptable deviation range.

Interestingly (at least for me) is that the actual camshaft angle for both bank 1 & 2 is identical- 130.88 degrees.

The only info related to Porsche cars I could find was with the 996, which could be very

 

Update---

After doing some analysis with my scanner I think i figured out the issue.... the camshaft angle deviation is too far out of spec when cold. So much for the dealer knowing what to look for.

When cold starting, deviation sits around 11.5 degrees, once warms up (and a restart) deviation sits at a consistent 9.3 degrees. I appreciate that the 9.3 degrees is nothing to brag about either, but it could be why the CEL shows pending but never comes on. This is only bank one, bank two deviation angle is -.3. While I checked the service manual, I couldn't find the Panamera acceptable deviation range. Does anyone know where/how I could find these specs?
I'm thinking Shrike was right and maybe it is bad tensioner in Bank 1...

Would this also cause PDCC voltage, and PSM Memory fault codes? I understand that timing chain could trigger ABS and TC failures, just am not sure if voltage and memory faults are the same.

Interestingly (at least for me) is that the actual camshaft angle for both bank 1 & 2 is identical- 130.88 degrees.

The only info related to Porsche cars I could find was with the 996, which could be very different from the DFI v8's. Anyone have any insight?

 

Camshaft chain tensioners can loose their tension. A typical symptom is loud cam chain noise at cold start idle, that gradually goes away as the car warms. The design of most tensioners is a simple "shoe" which presses against a slack section of the chain. The pressing is activated vis a vie a solonoid-energized piston.
Manufacturers often "upgrade" chain tensioners as their motor production evolves. I have seen this with Jaguar V8s and Honda motorcycles. Do a part search, and you are likely to see a progression of part numbers indicating design changes. Also, search Technical Service Bulletins (TSB).
A cheap way (maybe best way) to isolate the source cam chain noise is a simple mechanic's stethoscope, available at any NAPA store.
Camshaft chains ultimately do "stretch". For many years as a motorcycle rider I would measure drive-chain stretch. It is simple: with your hand try to lift a section of chain at a sprocket. A chain as lifted should not clear sprocket teeth. Sprocket teeth do wear also and look "scooped" when worn. More precise testing is chain removal and measuring its length against length of a new chain - EZ to do with a motorcycle, and not easy with a Porsche motor.

 

Trickle charger is a little slow for this huge battery, but did anything change? When our battery died the car gave a clear message that said the battery was bad. Just before this I was charging it up with a NOCO Genius 7200 frequently because it wasn't being driven much due to COVID. I'm trying to use a different brand charger nowadays...

As @Kirkman noted, is the engine ever running rough/making noises?