When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well, round 1&2 bumped the go factor up so now its time to make it slower with 75lb of radio gear
I also redid the door panels with fresh alcantara and a few other doo-dads.
Still have the car apart. hoping to have it back together in a couple of weeks. It only needs another few hrs of work, but I am out of town the next couple of weekends
I had them done by a local upholsterer. I took the doors apart and just took the pieces over. I do not have the color code, but it is Alcantara brand.. they have a little book to thumb through.
I also replaced the plastic around the window switches as it was scratched up.
I had them done by a local upholsterer. I took the doors apart and just took the pieces over. I do not have the color code, but it is Alcantara brand.. they have a little book to thumb through.
I also replaced the plastic around the window switches as it was scratched up.
You do the plastic yourself? the pieces are $80 a pop, i was going to do mine but wasn't sure if you had to cut them out of the door or if they simply clip in. Last time I remember they were plastic-welded into the door panel and you have to break them and re-epoxy.
You do the plastic yourself? the pieces are $80 a pop, i was going to do mine but wasn't sure if you had to cut them out of the door or if they simply clip in. Last time I remember they were plastic-welded into the door panel and you have to break them and re-epoxy.
Yes they are plastic welded.. It looks like the factory just takes a heat gun or iron and melts the end of the "rivets" to make them stay in place.
I replaced my "Door finishers" as I think they are called with red ones for a contrast and you carefully drill out the "rivets" of the old one until it's free.. Pop the new one in and I use a soldering iron to melt the rivets back on..
32- ill take some more pics its pretty simple. I normally cut off the pos battery terminal and put one on that has multiple positions but they are pretty bulky and I wasn't sure it would entirely fit under the battery cover. plus this was basically free, ha.
It is a very clean install! Only thing you may want to consider is an in-line fuse for the wiring from the positive terminal to your amps. I see a fused distribution block but I think you are also supposed to fuse ~6" or less from the main terminal as well (just extra safety).
Ya, no fuse block next to the battery. Agreed it is good practice, but the routing is pretty safe, grommets used, thick insulation and only about 36".. I live dangerously