997.1 C2S - Is there a newbie buyer FAQ?
997.1 C2S - Is there a newbie buyer FAQ?
I've spent hours reading and searching this forum-assistance needed please.
I'm looking at a 2006 911 Carrera S manual with Sport Chrono through Carmax so I can get a warranty. It has 35k miles on it, but I would be the 4th owner.
For a guy totally new to Porsche, what are the key things to look for on this car?
I have an independent shop near me that will do a PPI, but Carmax rules say I can't put it on a lift unless I purchase, so I am planning to buy it then take advantage of the 5 day return policy- making it a Post-purchase inspection.
But what things can I do on a test drive beforehand- for example, what are the characteristics of a worn clutch on these cars?
Thanks in advance-
I'm looking at a 2006 911 Carrera S manual with Sport Chrono through Carmax so I can get a warranty. It has 35k miles on it, but I would be the 4th owner.
For a guy totally new to Porsche, what are the key things to look for on this car?
I have an independent shop near me that will do a PPI, but Carmax rules say I can't put it on a lift unless I purchase, so I am planning to buy it then take advantage of the 5 day return policy- making it a Post-purchase inspection.
But what things can I do on a test drive beforehand- for example, what are the characteristics of a worn clutch on these cars?
Thanks in advance-
Would CarMax let you connect a computer up to it and check the DME? It might save you from having to buy, inspect, then return the car.
You want to pull down the DME overrev report from the car's computer. It shows the number of ignitions at and above redline over the life of the car in six ranges. Automatics will not go past redline so it's only important for manuals. Counts in range 1 and 2 are no problem, range 3 is OK and can usually get CPO'd from Porsche. Range 4 through 6 require more attention and caution depending upon how many counts and how long ago. Generally range 6 is a huge red flag especially if it was recent.
Anyone with Durametric or Porsche's PIWIS software can get the info from the computer in minutes, no lift required. If your indy has the software maybe you could stop by their shop while test driving the car to quickly pull down the report.
You want to pull down the DME overrev report from the car's computer. It shows the number of ignitions at and above redline over the life of the car in six ranges. Automatics will not go past redline so it's only important for manuals. Counts in range 1 and 2 are no problem, range 3 is OK and can usually get CPO'd from Porsche. Range 4 through 6 require more attention and caution depending upon how many counts and how long ago. Generally range 6 is a huge red flag especially if it was recent.
Anyone with Durametric or Porsche's PIWIS software can get the info from the computer in minutes, no lift required. If your indy has the software maybe you could stop by their shop while test driving the car to quickly pull down the report.
I just bought my 2008 911 Carrera S with 53k miles from CarMax. I had it shipped up from FL. I bought it, then had a PPI (post) performed on it. Based on the PPI, I opted out of the warranty. The warranty was $3479 up to 100k and $500 deductible or $3899 with $300 deductible. I was overall satisfied with the condition and PPI, so I pocketed the $3500-4000 to do some maintenance on it.
Within the 30-day window, I had them replace the battery and front tires for free. As for the clutch, test the engaging point and test dropping it into 4th going slowly up hill.
Within the 30-day window, I had them replace the battery and front tires for free. As for the clutch, test the engaging point and test dropping it into 4th going slowly up hill.
Would CarMax let you connect a computer up to it and check the DME? It might save you from having to buy, inspect, then return the car.
You want to pull down the DME overrev report from the car's computer. It shows the number of ignitions at and above redline over the life of the car in six ranges. Automatics will not go past redline so it's only important for manuals. Counts in range 1 and 2 are no problem, range 3 is OK and can usually get CPO'd from Porsche. Range 4 through 6 require more attention and caution depending upon how many counts and how long ago. Generally range 6 is a huge red flag especially if it was recent.
Anyone with Durametric or Porsche's PIWIS software can get the info from the computer in minutes, no lift required. If your indy has the software maybe you could stop by their shop while test driving the car to quickly pull down the report.
You want to pull down the DME overrev report from the car's computer. It shows the number of ignitions at and above redline over the life of the car in six ranges. Automatics will not go past redline so it's only important for manuals. Counts in range 1 and 2 are no problem, range 3 is OK and can usually get CPO'd from Porsche. Range 4 through 6 require more attention and caution depending upon how many counts and how long ago. Generally range 6 is a huge red flag especially if it was recent.
Anyone with Durametric or Porsche's PIWIS software can get the info from the computer in minutes, no lift required. If your indy has the software maybe you could stop by their shop while test driving the car to quickly pull down the report.
I just bought my 2008 911 Carrera S with 53k miles from CarMax. I had it shipped up from FL. I bought it, then had a PPI (post) performed on it. Based on the PPI, I opted out of the warranty. The warranty was $3479 up to 100k and $500 deductible or $3899 with $300 deductible. I was overall satisfied with the condition and PPI, so I pocketed the $3500-4000 to do some maintenance on it.
Within the 30-day window, I had them replace the battery and front tires for free. As for the clutch, test the engaging point and test dropping it into 4th going slowly up hill.
Within the 30-day window, I had them replace the battery and front tires for free. As for the clutch, test the engaging point and test dropping it into 4th going slowly up hill.
I have no dealer within 100 miles of me- but a recommended indy shop. I just spoke to them and they dont have the software to get into the DME. I'm not stoked about buying the Durametric kit just to test out the car... thoughts?

My 30 days is up, but I scheduled an appointment prior to it ending to have them replace a TPMS sensor that just went bad and fix my squealing brakes.
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And what symptoms of a problem, or behavior of a good clutch should that reveal- what SHOULD I experience?
Going up a hill, rev up in 1st then pop into 4-5th - if the revs continue to go up, that means it's slipping/not catching.
Thanks- it will stall out or judder when I let the clutch out all the way in 4th if the clutch is healthy?
These engines don't like to be lugged. To try and go into 4th at 20mph is bad for it.
You can tell if it's slipping by going no lower than 2500rpms and gunning it.
If the rpms surge without accelerating, the clutch is toast.
Im in the same exact situation. I just put down a small deposit and ordered the PPI. The car is 1000 miles away from me, but I had them send me a 45 minute walk-around video!! Looking forward to more newbie tips
If this is the car in question....an 06 with only 36k miles on it...id say its
on the pig dirty side.... even the underside of the engine cover, and the inner quarter panel... 4 owners is not unusual for 10 or 11 year old car...many of these are weekend toys.... this one given the miles obviousely was not driven.
If you buy it,,,, the water pump should be changed out given the mere age of it.
I have a neighbor with a 07, hes a slob and doesn't even vac his interior, and his engine looks exactly like this, but his car has twice the miles as yours.
that residue your pointing out looks more like basic dirt/road grime residue to me.
Did you drive it yet? observations?
on the pig dirty side.... even the underside of the engine cover, and the inner quarter panel... 4 owners is not unusual for 10 or 11 year old car...many of these are weekend toys.... this one given the miles obviousely was not driven.
If you buy it,,,, the water pump should be changed out given the mere age of it.
I have a neighbor with a 07, hes a slob and doesn't even vac his interior, and his engine looks exactly like this, but his car has twice the miles as yours.
that residue your pointing out looks more like basic dirt/road grime residue to me.
Did you drive it yet? observations?
If this is the car in question....an 06 with only 36k miles on it...id say its
on the pig dirty side.... even the underside of the engine cover, and the inner quarter panel... 4 owners is not unusual for 10 or 11 year old car...many of these are weekend toys.... this one given the miles obviousely was not driven.
If you buy it,,,, the water pump should be changed out given the mere age of it.
I have a neighbor with a 07, hes a slob and doesn't even vac his interior, and his engine looks exactly like this, but his car has twice the miles as yours.
that residue your pointing out looks more like basic dirt/road grime residue to me.
Did you drive it yet? observations?
on the pig dirty side.... even the underside of the engine cover, and the inner quarter panel... 4 owners is not unusual for 10 or 11 year old car...many of these are weekend toys.... this one given the miles obviousely was not driven.
If you buy it,,,, the water pump should be changed out given the mere age of it.
I have a neighbor with a 07, hes a slob and doesn't even vac his interior, and his engine looks exactly like this, but his car has twice the miles as yours.
that residue your pointing out looks more like basic dirt/road grime residue to me.
Did you drive it yet? observations?
What really bothered me on the oily residue on the intake is that the passenger side intake was completely pristine and clean. I would assume that if it was just residue it would be consistent over the whole motor but this is only on the driver side.




