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Kanga, Looking forward to seeing your box less air filter design when complete.
I too looked at using the roadster front chassis shear tray,#55 in the Body System drawing above, to stiffen my coupe but rejected it as likely more capable than I wanted. I am no racer, just looking to build an improved street car.
I did apply a rear chassis shear tray, #53 in the drawing, however. I found there were two alternatives available, one for the roadster, same heavy thickness as #55, and a thinner, lighter version of the same appearance, used on the V12 coupes.
I bought the V12 part and found it the same weight as the plastic OE panel I was replacing, 4#, although it was longer, included those forward ears to tie it to the floor pan, left and right. Perfect, it has proven just what I desired.
Note: The Vantage transaxle subframe design was upgraded, probably when the roadster was introduced. The later sub frames accept both coupe, plastic (4 rear bolts) and roadster/V12, aluminum (5 rear bolts) shear trays.
Something to keep in mind is that the intake ducting starts in the grille, so you're getting a lot of cold intake air at speed. It's hard to reflect that on a dyno. I'd assume that drawing air from inside the engine bay using a short-tract system is going to result in higher intake air temps, which may negate any gains you'd get (aside from much easier maintenance). It'd definitely be a cool project, just food for thought!
Here's an overview of the intake system showing pretty much everything on the V8V:
1) Are there backing plates that have allowance for cooling the brakes?
2) Can the stock air ducting be re-routed to cool the brakes?
x-chr
__________________ Stuart Dickinson Managing Director Velocity Automotive Performance Limited 206 Maple Avenue Oliver, BC Canada V2A 4W6 Office: (1)250-485-5126 www.velocityap.com
Makes sense. We have not started disassembly yet so I am unsure how it is all packaged. I am wondering if I can use part 1 and route the existing fresh air tract to those pieces.
These are GT4 parts. The Newer GT4 cars have the updated front splitter, which has a carbon scoop for brake ducting right along the edge where the splitter/rad opening.
On the earlier cars, one could also install a Naca duct on the under tray at the front.
__________________ Stuart Dickinson Managing Director Velocity Automotive Performance Limited 206 Maple Avenue Oliver, BC Canada V2A 4W6 Office: (1)250-485-5126 www.velocityap.com
Once the airboxes have been removed you can then connect in to the stock air ducting and route it back to the brakes. You will have to fit a spacer onto the steering rack tie rod arms to prevent full lock otherwise the ducting will get crushed, it's fitted on the race cars.
Thanks - I like this solution also. I would not brake run cooling on the street. Have you any ideas on closing the system when not tracking?
A good idea. There are also inline hose valves used for replica cobra cockpit cooling. I was trying to think how we could install a system that could easily be turned on and off for track. Having thought about it a bit more, I realize one of the biggest problems with running hoses is the bends and the constant cycling of the steering, especially if they follow the steering arms. We have to replace the hoses on our track car I would guess every 1000 to 1500 miles. It may be only running the hoses for tracking. I was trying to visualize how NACA ducts installed in the engine plate could help with this if they could be located near the rotor center line in front view.
