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As some of you may or may not know i've been trying to track down a authentic RUF shift **** for close to 4 years now. After been scammed 2x's on 6 speed and deciding I didn't want to spend over 1500 bucks on the only one to come on ebay a few months back in the 3 years i've been looking on there a very kind member on 6speed pm'ed me after seeing this thread and said he was going to be in Germany and he would be happy to pick one up for me.
I thought to myself "sure buddy" but he didn't ask for any money and said he'd have pictures for me in 3 weeks... 3 weeks later I get a PM and whadaya know... a brand new N.O.S. shift ****. After peeing myself I promptly told him:
And he did. To me the little details on a car build make all the difference and I knew the car would never feel complete without it so I can't thank Petza914 enough!
The other thing I was trying to track down was an authentic RUF steering wheel. Which, after contacting RUF, they will sell you but the shipping alone was going to be 1200.00 due to the goods being classified as an explosive (the airbag). So all in it was going to be close to 3k and thanks to my lanky 6'2" body my knees were still going to hit the RUF wheel as it was only marginally smaller than the OE.
So I ended up contacting DCTMS and had them make me up a custom wheel. I did the outer stitching to match my seats and shift **** boot, and kept the airbag stitching black so it wouldn't draw your eye too much. It's also smaller and has the flat bottom which should make the driving experience for me much better to live with. It's not authentic, but I feel it was the best compromise I could come up with. I think it looks fairly OE RUF frankly and i'm very happy with the overall outcome.
I've got a new OE Porsche steering column cover (mine has drill holes from the previous owners laser jammer install), new driver and passenger OE porsche door sill covers (my plastic is a bit too scratched for my liking), and a new ignition switch surround (mine looks pretty banged up from the first owners apparent lack of hand/eye coordination).
Just want to bring everything you touch and feel on the interior to looking new again.
I might not install until the spring as the snow is coming within a month or so and I don't want to have any downtime. RSS engine mounts are here and will go in at that time as well.
I might be adding a quick release Cup steering wheel to my car. As such, I will have a genuine RUF steering wheel for sale if you ever decide to get the real McCoy... If you ever need RUF parts, let me know. RUF has my car in their database and I can generally get what ever I need rather quickly. At least that's how it's been in the past...
Blew my coolant pipes almost a year ago to the day. At the time i was starting a new company and living off savings so i didn't think spending money to get it back on the road was the best option. Fast forward a year and finally time to get the car back on the road. Flatbedded to the dealer yesterday. Just doing basic maintenance while it's out.
Pin coolant pipes
Resurface DMFW
Sachs "2.5" Clutch (don't yell at me pwdrhound, i know it's not technically a 2.5)
Waterpump
Replace Vac Hoses
*Fingers crossed nothing else needs replacing as i'm on a budget to get this thing back on the road.
glad to see another yellow screamer going back on the road!! good luck! let me know if i can help . i have a bunch of stock parts . maybe something you need to get it running again
Glad to hear your getting her back going. You may want to check around before you resurface the flywheel. The design of the pressure plate mounting does not allow for the flywheel to be resurfaced and yield good results. The pressure plate bolts to the flywheel down in a groove that is lower than the mating surface of the clutch disc. When the mating surface is re surfaced it will remove material therefore reducing the static pressure on the clutch disc. FWIW, its best to get a new flywheel. Good luck with everything!
Thanks, Mike
Last edited by SpeedAddict; Mar 8, 2017 at 03:50 PM.
I've just been crossing my fingers on my coolant pipes! 2003 with 40,XXX miles! When one fails I want to do a bunch of extras like vacuum lines as well. Glad to see you getting it back on the road!
Glad to hear your getting her back going. You may want to check around before you resurface the flywheel. The design of the pressure plate mounting does not allow for the flywheel to be resurfaced and yield good results. The pressure plate bolts to the flywheel down in a groove that is lower than the mating surface of the clutch disc. When the mating surface is re surfaced it will remove material therefore reducing the static pressure on the clutch disc. FWIW, its best to get a new flywheel. Good luck with everything!
Thanks, Mike
Good looking out - will look into it! Thanks Mike!
Finally got the car back after about 3 weeks at the dealer. They originally put the new clutch in and pinned the pipes only to drive it around the dealer lot and have the accumulator and slave cylinder fail. So I called up Betim at BBI and he hooked me up with his slave cylinder kit. Beautiful piece of engineering and machine work.
Dealer installed it but put Pentosin in it... so I picked it up and had to take it back to have Dot 4 flushed through it properly and now I guess we're good to go for a while (I hope so!)
I had been having an issue with the rear end tail slapping under WOT but i've narrowed it down to what i think are simply cold tires. When it's colder out (40-50 degrees) or during the first parts of a drive when there isn't a ton of temp in the tires the rear end does kind of wag back and forth a bit but get a little temp into the PSS's and it feels planted.
Just curious.. how is your tires holding up.. the 305 30 19 and 245 35 19? I didn't have a chance to go through your whole thread.. but is it AWD still? and is the diff ok? I am considering 19s and going that tire seize as well.
Tires holding up well... diff remains intact but i'm sure the AWD system is inactive due to the rolling diameter in rear being less than the front.
I'm a 19x11 rear and if I had to do it again i'm going to do a 295 rear just for some added rear clearance. I still have to run higher than i'd like and do get some rubbing under hard compression on the 305's.
^ I've been getting mixed messages.. but from what it seems like 245 35 19 and 305 30 19 doesnt bug the AWD system.. although according to calculator it seems 295 30 19 would be a closer fit. using 295 has 0.68 difference..
