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I'm sure all will work out fine. It would be difficult to find fault with the BC's from an outward appearance. They are a high quality shock. Not knocking Bilstein as much as I'm touting these as a superior product to the base model shocks Porsche specs out.
I dropped my car off at the shop today for the install, but given I'm going out of town and I'll pick it up on my return Tuesday. While discussing the ride height settings I was informed after alignment I may need other parts to be able to get the alignment set correctly to avoid toe steer (?). I was in a hurry and now I can't recall other than saying to call me if anything else is needed.
Anyway, my instruction was I didn't want to see the top of the tire - like this and off the BC Racing website:
Yes, it's a good idea to add adjustable rear toe arms and front bump steer tie rod ends.
Installed rear adjustable toe arms but opted to not mess with the front as I was not going for the 0 gap look however after the alignment I detected a fair amount of bump steer.
Tonight I fabricated and installed a set of steering rack spacers (same setup as TRS Steering Rack Bump Steer Kit) to achieve the same result as the front bump steer tie rods. It's a much cheaper alternative. TRS runs them on the Spec Boxter race cars and they work great. I went ahead and installed a new set of inner tie rods since I was in so deep and noticed the passenger side had tiny bit of play. Likely the reason for my slight 60 mph steering wheel wobble.
Final alignment in the morning followed by a back country rip...
Re- read your post and realized you've got your wording mixed up a bit.
The issue you run into on the front is "bump steer". (youtube for video explanation) Steering rack spacers or front bump steer tie rods both solve the same issue but in slightly different ways. One makes the adjustment by raising the rack (spacers) and one lowers the tie rod end at the hub. (bump steer tie rod)
After fabricating and installing the spacers I would highly recommend not going that route as apposed to the tie rod end if your paying someone to do the work. Raising the rack is a major PITA compared to the very simple tie rod end install and therefore likely to cost 3 times as much.
The rear adjustable toe arm is required because the factory eccentric bolt does not allow for enough room to reach the correct toe settings on lowered cars.
Yes, it's a good idea to add adjustable rear toe arms and front bump steer tie rod ends.
Installed rear adjustable toe arms but opted to not mess with the front as I was not going for the 0 gap look however after the alignment I detected a fair amount of bump steer.
Tonight I fabricated and installed a set of steering rack spacers (same setup as TRS Steering Rack Bump Steer Kit) to achieve the same result as the front bump steer tie rods. It's a much cheaper alternative. TRS runs them on the Spec Boxter race cars and they work great. I went ahead and installed a new set of inner tie rods since I was in so deep and noticed the passenger side had tiny bit of play. Likely the reason for my slight 60 mph steering wheel wobble.
Final alignment in the morning followed by a back country rip...
Thanks for the information. I'll call and have them installed.
yes - it's aligned and it rocks! I'm running 15mm spacers in the rears and I need to take them down to 10mm and there's slight rubbing on hard bumps - I don't want any more camber - it's dialed in
Car looks great. How do you thing your lip is going to hold up? Some people say it's a disposable item so it may not be a big deal I know I already replaced mine before not even lowered.
Car looks great. How do you thing your lip is going to hold up? Some people say it's a disposable item so it may not be a big deal I know I already replaced mine before not even lowered.
More details on the ride quality please.
Thanks. The front is marginally lower that the H&R springs, and the rears are a lot lower and I love it - perfect to me!
it honestly rides better that my springs even the shop said to their surprise they thought the same - dual adjustment and set at mid range. I do have to reduce the rear spacers from 15mm to 10mm given in hard bumps there's a light rub.
What comp/reb settings are you running? I'm testing out going stiffer in the rear this weekend. Something closer to 18. Will likely settle on 10-15 in front.
Glad that all worked out and the car looks great! This thread should help others looking to lower as I can't imagine doing springs in place of getting a set of BC's that offer all these features and perform very well.
I'm guessing the H&R and Ohlins R&T would have performed just as well and maybe even better. Won't know for certain until we see some real world reviews. I will say though the spring rates BC chose and the internal valve stacks themselves are incredibly well matched which is a critical feature and the key reason these perform so well.
