STRANGE Porsche 996TT consume coolant without leak
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the main issue i have with 10mm studs is the 2 heat cycle retorque which means dropping the motor a 2nd time and remove the cam housing and retorque then reassemble. and retime the cams.this means oil sump tank has to also be removed. with the added cost of the gaskets and labor the cost of the 12mm which dont require any retorque becomes actually cheaper and stronger.
i wasnt aware evoms even sold 10mm studs. i know racewear and arp do . protomotive sells an 11mm stud and i think bbi sells a hybrid 11mm shank with 10mm threads which isnt even worth the bother.
i wasnt aware evoms even sold 10mm studs. i know racewear and arp do . protomotive sells an 11mm stud and i think bbi sells a hybrid 11mm shank with 10mm threads which isnt even worth the bother.
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Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 51
From: Wallis
Rep Power: 13
Work of the day, after spending my free time this week to put the gearbox back to the engine, and then put the engine back in the car:
- starting the engine without the candles, everything seems OK
- then start the engine with the candles / coils, but without the fuel pump, everything seems OK
- I put the fuel pump on the road, I wait a moment that the gasoline arrives in the engine, because everything is dry, I wait, I wait, and then I start and the beast makes his first cries! YESSSSSS!
I let a moment go by and everything seems in order, until the big water hose on the right comes out and a big shower of cooling water gushes! Ouch, I cut the engine!
Well, obviously it does not hold well, but after multiple tests, it seems to hold. I put the cooling circuit under vacuum to redo the level, because I still think I lost 3 to 4 liters of water.
I restart the engine until hot, the fan on the front starts, and it takes, I still let a moment to control the oil level, and I must add 0.5 to 0.7 liter.
What a relief to hear the engine running that I reassembled all myself!
- starting the engine without the candles, everything seems OK
- then start the engine with the candles / coils, but without the fuel pump, everything seems OK
- I put the fuel pump on the road, I wait a moment that the gasoline arrives in the engine, because everything is dry, I wait, I wait, and then I start and the beast makes his first cries! YESSSSSS!
I let a moment go by and everything seems in order, until the big water hose on the right comes out and a big shower of cooling water gushes! Ouch, I cut the engine!
Well, obviously it does not hold well, but after multiple tests, it seems to hold. I put the cooling circuit under vacuum to redo the level, because I still think I lost 3 to 4 liters of water.
I restart the engine until hot, the fan on the front starts, and it takes, I still let a moment to control the oil level, and I must add 0.5 to 0.7 liter.
What a relief to hear the engine running that I reassembled all myself!
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,807
From: Montreal Canada
Rep Power: 268
Work of the day, after spending my free time this week to put the gearbox back to the engine, and then put the engine back in the car:
- starting the engine without the candles, everything seems OK
- then start the engine with the candles / coils, but without the fuel pump, everything seems OK
- I put the fuel pump on the road, I wait a moment that the gasoline arrives in the engine, because everything is dry, I wait, I wait, and then I start and the beast makes his first cries! YESSSSSS!
I let a moment go by and everything seems in order, until the big water hose on the right comes out and a big shower of cooling water gushes! Ouch, I cut the engine!
Well, obviously it does not hold well, but after multiple tests, it seems to hold. I put the cooling circuit under vacuum to redo the level, because I still think I lost 3 to 4 liters of water.
I restart the engine until hot, the fan on the front starts, and it takes, I still let a moment to control the oil level, and I must add 0.5 to 0.7 liter.
What a relief to hear the engine running that I reassembled all myself!
- starting the engine without the candles, everything seems OK
- then start the engine with the candles / coils, but without the fuel pump, everything seems OK
- I put the fuel pump on the road, I wait a moment that the gasoline arrives in the engine, because everything is dry, I wait, I wait, and then I start and the beast makes his first cries! YESSSSSS!
I let a moment go by and everything seems in order, until the big water hose on the right comes out and a big shower of cooling water gushes! Ouch, I cut the engine!
Well, obviously it does not hold well, but after multiple tests, it seems to hold. I put the cooling circuit under vacuum to redo the level, because I still think I lost 3 to 4 liters of water.
I restart the engine until hot, the fan on the front starts, and it takes, I still let a moment to control the oil level, and I must add 0.5 to 0.7 liter.
What a relief to hear the engine running that I reassembled all myself!
About the clips that hold the coolant pipes and other...Be sure you got the proper size in the proper position... The left hand hose and the right hose clips seems to be the same but are slightly different....
Last edited by jpflip; Dec 1, 2017 at 10:00 AM.
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Joined: Dec 2015
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From: Jacksonville, FL
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I had a similar problem fitting the coolant hose. The clip retaining tabs on my brand new hose needed to be pried open a little in order to obtain a secure connection.
It's the thin metal hump that is part of the hose. They are weak and can be opened easily with a small flat head screw driver.
It's the thin metal hump that is part of the hose. They are weak and can be opened easily with a small flat head screw driver.
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,807
From: Montreal Canada
Rep Power: 268
I had a similar problem fitting the coolant hose. The clip retaining tabs on my brand new hose needed to be pried open a little in order to obtain a secure connection.
It's the thin metal hump that is part of the hose. They are weak and can be opened easily with a small flat head screw driver.
It's the thin metal hump that is part of the hose. They are weak and can be opened easily with a small flat head screw driver.
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Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 51
From: Wallis
Rep Power: 13
Here, my little 996TT2 is ready for a first test drive, but no more time today.
I still a little apprehensive, because despite the fact that I ran the engine to slow down 3 times 15 to 20 minutes, without that there is anything alarming, it makes me afraid !
In addition, when I did that I heated, the hose held, it does not prevent that I have the *****!
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Registered User
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 51
From: Wallis
Rep Power: 13
So this morning, first laps, 2.8 km, madness I tell you.
The water hose held, but it is cold, -3 outside and between 10 and 14 degrees in the workshop, the engine turned approx. 30 minutes, so apart from the 2.8 km outside, the engine was running at over 10 degrees.
I have a question if someone has the information, I put 8 liters of oil, as recommended by the manual, and I always have my low level, the last pixel, or it blinks because below !
My engine was dry at home dry, because up to nine, I say to myself that maybe we should put more, but how much?
The water hose held, but it is cold, -3 outside and between 10 and 14 degrees in the workshop, the engine turned approx. 30 minutes, so apart from the 2.8 km outside, the engine was running at over 10 degrees.
I have a question if someone has the information, I put 8 liters of oil, as recommended by the manual, and I always have my low level, the last pixel, or it blinks because below !
My engine was dry at home dry, because up to nine, I say to myself that maybe we should put more, but how much?