The 330mm to 350mm stock caliper big brake kits are becoming more and more popular. This is a basic walk through on the process of removing your old stock 330mm rotors and upgrading and installing your new 350mm rotors along with bolt and spacer kit. These kits are available from a few suppliers and is an upgrade i highly recommend to anyone with a 996 turbo, 996 c4s, 997 c2s, or 997 c4s.

Tools:
Jack or lift
Sock to remove wheels (some guys have special lugs sockets)
10mm allen socks
10mm standard socket
torque wrench
flat screwdriver
phillips screwdriver
wire brush
added tools that help:
impact screw gun
screw gun or die grinder with wire brush

Step 1:
Jack up car and remove wheel







step 2 Front:
Use a flat head screwdriver to pry the ABS wire grommet out of bracket. Then remove the bolt and nut holding the ABS/pad sensor wires and brake line to the upright.






Step 2 Rear:
Use flat head screwdriver to remove ABS wire from bracket on the caliper



Step 3:
Use your 10mm allen socket and driver to remove the 2 bolts mounting the caliper to the upright. after removing boots, safely set the calipers behind the rotor in the suspension. Use a zip tie or wood blocks to support the caliper so the metal brake hard lines do not get bent or damaged.









Step 4:
Using a phillips screwdriver (impact screw gun is very helpful to use if you have one) remove the 2 screws holding the rotor to the hub. after screws are removed, take rotor off and set aside.







Step 5:
Now that you have removed the rotor, it is very important to clean any rust off the hub so the new rotor sits flat on the hub. Use a wire brush (or screw gun/ die grinder with wire brush) to clean the hub surface until all rust is removed.










Step 6:
Unbox your new 350mm rotors. Clean them with brake cleaner and remove any oil or grease on them.









Step 7 (rear only):
Test fit rotor on hub. It may not fit due to the ebrake shoes contacting the rotor. If this is an issue, use a flat head screw driver to turn down the start screw on the brake shoe adjuster. Turn it a few turns at a time and test fit rotor until it slides over the ebrake shoes.




Step 8:
Install rotors. Use the 2 phillips head screw to mount rotor to hub. Very important to screw these in by hand and not use a screw gun do the heads do not become stripped out. Many people replace these screw when changing rotor and is recommended but not mandatory.



Step 9:
Install your calipers with new longer bolts and spacers. you may need to use a C clamp to push the pistons and pads back in all the way to spread wide enough to fit over the new rotor.
Whether you're using plate style or washer style spacers, install the top bolt first. Slide bolt through the caliper and slide spacer up and use bolt to hold in place. Then line up with mounting hole and finger start the bolt. Now install the bottom bolt into calipers. Slide spacer into place and start bolt with your fingers.
Now tighten the bolts as much as possible with your fingers. After they are finger tight, use your 10mm allen head socket and driver to tighten the bolts to a light snuggle. Its a good idea to do this buy tightening each bolt a little at a time.
After bolts are snug, you need to mount your 10mm allen socket on to your torque wrench. OEM torque spec for the caliper bolts is 63ft/lb. personally i torque them to 70ft/lb but 63ft/lb is the proper OEM spec

















Step 10 front:
You will not want to reinstall the brake line/ABS wire bracket. Finger start the bolt to the upright. Now slide the sensor mount back over stud, finger start nut. With your 10mm socket and driver, tighten the bolt and nut back up. Then slide the abs wire grommet back into the bracket.

Step 10 rear:
Slide the ABS wire grommet back into bracket mount on caliper.

Step 11:
Reinstall wheel, lower jack and torque lug nuts to spec.




Step 12:
Repeat on other 3 corners

Step 13
Start car. Press the brake pedal a few time until you have good pedal pressure back. Now take the car for a drive and go through a brake pad bedding process. You need to bed the pads to the new rotors and remove and coating on the rotors left

Notes:
During this install, it is also a good time to change pads and fluid. You would do this the same you would any other time by removing old pads, installing new pads, and then bleeding brakes until you have new clean fluid with no air coming out of the calipers.

Edit:
Pictures wont upload through computer for some reason. Posting then add them with my phone.

 

Thanks for the detailed write-up! I'm looking to do this very soon, only I'm planning to install caliper studs at the same time.

 

Thanks for doing this Freddy...will come in handy to review before I do the job.

 

No problem guys. Any other questions feel free to ask.

 

Very nice write up..question, what application do the rotors come from? Where could I find the spacers with new bolts? thanks

 

When I did mine I bought OEM 997 rotors as I am just a regular ol street car. The OP actually made a bunch of spacers and will send them to you along with longer bolts for a very modest cost. That is the route I went and found the spacers to be just perfect.

Chris

 

Awesome write up

 

Hey OP, did you fab the spacers and are you selling them? Sorry, I would PM you but I'm a long time lurker here and just registered. I have spacers in the front and need some for the rear. Thanks!

 

Nice writeup. Did this mod to Girodisc last year.

 

Very nice write up. I used op's spacers and bolts and they worked great. Finally solved my track days front brake overheating problem. Another option in step 3 is to cut a piece of wire coathanger which you can thread between top of caliper and rotor before removing caliper bolts. Twist off and run other end around a spring coil and twist it off. Then when you remove caliper bolts, caliper will just hang and can be pushed out of the way without hurting brake lines.