Just sharing some photos from the battery replacement I did.
I used 1/4" drive for easier access to the lower mount torx screws(T27 size), a long and a short extension, 8,10 and 13mm sockets and phillips head screwdriver.
After removing the shelf lid, foam around the battery and metal finisher, you can move the carpet section a bit out of the way for access to the front of the battery where the lower mount is located.








Rear bracket mounting bolt



Rear bracket mount bolt removed



Bracket mount removed, notice the left lower corner is angled, this is the front mount bolt location



The four T27 torx screws. No need to remove completely and the bracket WILL NOT come off, just loose enough to slightly slide battery aft to tilt out of the holding brackets



It's a tight fit, be careful removing/installing.

Cheers

 

Great write up and pictures. I'll be doing this soon I think. Thanks!

 

Danno
Did you connect an alternative power source to save codes and window settings?
DW

 

Dear air993 and DavidW,
Thanks, Redpants also has a DIY video if you have any other issues.
David, I did yes, it was on a battery tender/charger.

 

I like knowing you could get the battery out without completely removing the two clamps at the bottom... I did slide them to the 'left' and get them off the rail by loosening the interior panel and holding it out of the way. Overall not a fun job! I did not connect alt power, just reset the windows when you are done. (Hold both down buttons till you hear a 'tick' then power all the way up .. hold up till you hear a 'tick'.)


Be cautious if you are powering the car and still have a live battery wire hanging around. Wiring is pretty tight in there.

 

Don't you also lose the misfire coding?


What recommendations does anyone have for a memory code maintainer? Can you trust the ones that just have a little plug-in 9V battery?

 

Using the battery tender/charger didn’t help or hurt anything, I reset the windows as stated above as well.