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After buying an exhaust that didn't fit, I decided to build my own. I haven't finished yet, however I thought I'd chronicle the process in case anyone is curious about what it takes to build a system.
I chose a simple catless X-design because it's, well, simple, and cost-effective. My goal is to make this as affordable as possible, including both materials and labor. I don't have a mandrel bender, so I had to buy some tubing bends. When buying bends, there is a factor known as 'leg length', which is the length of straight pipe beyond the bend. My local supply shop made me bends with leg lengths I defined so I can assemble the pipes with as little labor as possible. It's easy to cut down a tube, but more difficult to lengthen one.
I then had a local water jet shop make me some flanges. Finding a shop that would make me a few pieces has been the most difficult part of this endeavor to date. No one wants to make a few pieces, everyone wants to make hundreds. I completely understand that from a business perspective, and fault no one for not being interested in a handful. That said, I'm happy with how they turned out.
One thing I'm not happy about are the crossover tubes. The offset in height between the turbo outlets and bumper outlets are such that the pipes are very close together. My initial idea was to use a 25º bend angle to keep the parallel tubes close together while still allowing me enough room to fit my torch between them. I don't like the way they turned out when I cut them because there's no straight flow from one to the other. Not that this matters too much because there's a lot of turbulence in the crossover chamber, but it doesn't look good to me.
I've ordered new pieces using a 45º angle, and my solution is to rotate the X such that it brings the inlet and outlet pipes closer to the same plane. I'm not versed in 3D modeling, else I'd draw it, so you'll just have to use your imagination.
I'll post more about the fabrication process once I receive the new tubing. That said, I wouldn't encourage anyone to do this without the right tools and training. In my garage I have an Ellis 1600 saw:
And a Miller Dynasty 210DX:
While it may seem simple to run out and buy those tools and make your own, the learning curve is steep when it comes to operation of an advanced-function TIG machine as is successfully welding with one. It's first and foremost a science, with the art being a product of understanding the science. Not only will one spend five figures buying the equipment, but one will produce hundreds, if not thousands of dollars in scrap metal while learning how to use it.
I have a Miller Dynasty 200DX water-cooled with a 20 torch, love it. In my college job I used a Synchrowave 250 for 4 years, awesome machine as well. Prior to that I used a Miller Synchrowave 300 (huge fridge). Dynasty is awesome to really dial in aluminum.
Good luck on the exhaust. Any thoughts on the exh tip style?
I have thought about doing the same. I have the pictured Lincoln square wave 255 machine. And I have done a fair amount of stainless welding for brewing projects. I will have to watch your progress!!!!
I have a Miller Dynasty 200DX water-cooled with a 20 torch, love it. In my college job I used a Synchrowave 250 for 4 years, awesome machine as well. Prior to that I used a Miller Synchrowave 300 (huge fridge). Dynasty is awesome to really dial in aluminum.
Good luck on the exhaust. Any thoughts on the exh tip style?
the Synchrowave is a hoss of a machine. I've only used one a couple of times, but it had a really nice arc.
Have you bought the AC expansion card for your 200? I like the independent waveform settings, however I don't do enough aluminum to justify an $800 card.
I think im going to use slip joints on the crossover outlets so I can change up the exhaust look between double 3", angled GT2-style, and factory.
Originally Posted by 4LUX
I have thought about doing the same. I have the pictured Lincoln square wave 255 machine. And I have done a fair amount of stainless welding for brewing projects. I will have to watch your progress!!!!
Also a beast of a machine! If you've done brewing equipment, you'll do fine on an exhaust. As I stated, the hardest part was finding someone to cut the flanges. You can buy a pair from 42 Draft Designs for about a hundred bucks.
I have not used an expansion card, I don't know if the even have it for mine (200DX, previous version of the 210DX). But growing up with transformer machines like the Synchrowave and Squarewaves the inverter machines like the Dynasty are so flexible I have nothing to complain about LOL. However yeah with the expansion card you can dial it in even further...almost hard to imagine.
The slip on joints for swapping exh tip style is a great idea. If you need further tweaking you can look into ball & socket joints. I think Jegs or Summit sells 304SS ball & socket joints.
I have not used an expansion card, I don't know if the even have it for mine (200DX, previous version of the 210DX).
I just looked it up, and it's only for 210 and 280. Even my 210DX has more functions than I'll ever use in my limited capacity. I only bought it because I learned on a 350, so the machine was familiar to me. My one regret is buying the wireless pedal. It doesn't seem as responsive as I recall a wired pedal being.
I'll look into the ball and socket joints. A cursory search didn't turn up any in 304, but I'll keep checking.
Looks like they may not have the stainless version anymore. Here is the Jegs part number for the aluminized version to give you an idea,555-31934. Allows you to adjust more than one plane. Otherwise the slip joint should be fine and plenty common.
Never tried the wireless, always use the standard wired pedal.
If you have extra flanges I would buy some off of you as I want to make another one!
No can do. This thread was deleted and my account locked about 30 minutes after creating it because some vendor got upset and reported it thinking that I was going to sell the product. I had to change my username because it 'sounded too commercial' in order to reactivate my account.
This is advanced DIY, not a commercial enterprise. I'm not selling anything.
If you want to buy flanges, you can get them from 42 Draft Designs. They don't look like mine, but they look exactly like the ones a great many manufacturers are using on their overpriced exhausts.
I saw the change in your user name as well as the post and figured some princess must've gotten their panties in a wad.
Awesome thread, look forward to watching your progress. I actually remember your username from the car lounge. I still read and post over there with some regularity.
Nice. Im in the same shoes as you.. Im making my own exhaust for my 997.1 Turbo. I will probably go catless as well to keep the cost down. I have HTP Invertig 221. I will see how stainless turns out, maybe later I will try to do one in Titanium. GOOD LUCK, can't wait for updates !
No can do. This thread was deleted and my account locked about 30 minutes after creating it because some vendor got upset and reported it thinking that I was going to sell the product. I had to change my username because it 'sounded too commercial' in order to reactivate my account.
This is advanced DIY, not a commercial enterprise. I'm not selling anything.
If you want to buy flanges, you can get them from 42 Draft Designs. They don't look like mine, but they look exactly like the ones a great many manufacturers are using on their overpriced exhausts.
Ah yes, I know the feeling. But back to the flanges, I got ones originally from 42 Draft Designs, worked great just super pricey, Im just looking to build a 3.5" setup which is why I need more flanges.
Consider doing a muffler or some anti drone resonance tubes. It's hard to make a good sounding exhaust for these cars from the perspective of the person inside the cabin. It has to be tuned properly. The drone my first X pipe I made at 2500 to 3000 rpm cruising speed was ear splitting. I wound up welding up a big magnaflow muffler to it in place of the x pipe as it was damaging my hearing. Anti drone pipes are really nice when tuned properly. Zero drone.
03-19-2018, 11:16 AM
