When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey everyone! I didn't see really any info on this piece (maybe I wasn't looking in the right spot) so figured I'd post up my install and review. the backstory : I previously owned a 2015 Panamera e-hybrid that I loved, but decided I HAD to have a turbo (because reasons...and the pdk) so I sold it and now have a 2012 Panamera turbo. Immediately I noticed that this pano was a bit more 'rough' and i've been on a quest to fix all vibrations / clunks / squeeks etc. Since i've purchased it, i've had wheels balanced, (new tires show up in a few weeks), new upper control arms, lower control arms, pdcc (sway bar) bushings, motor mounts, upper torque arm, tie rod ends, transmission mount, front end links, rotors, pads, and an alignment I STILL have some vibrations in the 70-90 range that I occasionally feel in the steering wheel, and occasionally feel in my seat. I was recommended this to help with drivetrain vibrations, and while I wasn't 100% sure if this would solve my issues, I'm pot committed to this car, so what's another $500 right? If this doesn't fix my issue, I'm looking at axles or steering rack bushings...or just selling the car lol. SO! Let's get into it!
I ordered mine from vertex auto, though it came with zero instructions. I have my own lift, do my own wrenching so figured this would be a snap. There are some videos online about doing a cayenne, though ours is a little different (so don't order a cayenne one thinking it will work). This is supposed to clean up vibrations that are typically caused from a failing driveshaft support. You can buy a regular OEM driveshaft support mount for $50 or so, but you'll have to remove the driveshaft all together, and have a new bearing pressed on, have the driveshaft balanced etc. This is advertised as a quick one hour job, though my experience turned out to be much different. You'll need to start by removing the covers and the exhaust and heat shield so you can expose the driveshaft and driveshaft support.
Here is the OEM mount. Mine didn't appear to be in TOO rough shape, and as soon as I got in there I didn't think this would solve my vibration issues, but hey...it's worth a shot and i'm pot committed so onward I go!
The first step is to remove the oem mount, which basically means you need to cut it out. I used a disc cutter to cut the oem mount, then begins the nightmare of getting the rubber off. THIS. TOOK. FOREVER. I tried a razorblade, grinding, sanding, EVERYTHING, and it was a straight PITA. What's worse, is that once I got it almost all the way to NO rubber, I test fit the mount around the bearing only to find out that it didn't fit...WTF? well... there is an aluminum collar around the actual bearing on mine (i've heard some have this and some dont) so I cut a knotch in my collar, and peeled it back to expose the bearing. While I was in there, I used a pick tool to pull the bearing seal off and re-pack the bearing with high temp grease...sorry I don't have a photo of that, b/c grease and new iphones don't go so well together lol.
Once you have JUST the bearing exposed, this is where it gets 'fun'. I installed the support, lowered the car off the lift, and went for a drive. 2 seconds into the drive I hear this terribly whirling noise, like a playing card was stuck in a bicycle spoke. Back on the rack it went. Since it didn't have any instructions, I tried re-adjusting everything and going again... this time it was even worse. So now what...hmm...
Well. I'll skip attempts 3-6 and just cut straight to how you SHOULD install this... and I don't know how you'd do this without a lift and a friend but...here is what I did. I had a friend get in the car on the lift, and put the car in drive and let it idle so the car would go roughly 5mph. I had the mount installed on the bearing (via the allen head screws) and had the two 13mm bolts threaded into the chassis but not tightened down. When the car was put into drive, the driveshaft would spin, and carefully I moved the mount around in all directions. Doing this you could feel the vibrations of the driveshaft and bearing heavier or lighter in some directions. What ended up working best for me, was all the way forward and towards the passenger side of the car. When I felt the least amount of vibrations, I tightened the 13mm bolts down. (you'll notice two pictures of the unit installed below, though that wasn't the final orientation, so don't pay attention to that lol).
The other thing I did was used a set of pliars to mash down the clamp on the driveshaft that sits inside the prop support. I think this was making the card in a bicycle noise, so i'd recommend doing the same. I believe that clamp was actually hitting the inside of the rubber pieces, which left some scarring...which I wish they would've designed better but... oh well.
Lastly ; this did help in the vibration department but i'm still not out of the water. During my fitment session on the rack, I did notice a slight wobble in the rear axle, so i'm going to be replacing that next. I couldn't find a non $1000 OEM unit, so I'm gambling with a used one for $100... i'll make sure to post up if it solves the rest of the vibration issues. Hopefully that'll be it and I don't have to replace the steering rack (as I don't believe you can replace the steering rack bushings). Hope this helps the next guy!!
and for fun ; a shot of the pano in winter mode...cmon spring!!
That repair looks quite challenging. It another reminder that there isn’t much on these cars that is an easy repair. BTW, nice wheels. Are those original?
Thank you for sharing and for the detailed DIY! I know how long it takes to do up a DIY and the community is very appreciative! That being said, hoping to never have to do this repair!
That repair looks quite challenging. It another reminder that there isn’t much on these cars that is an easy repair. BTW, nice wheels. Are those original?
aftermarket ; just a set of DWS for the winter, i have the factory 20" with Michelin's ready to go back on here shortly! *edit. they are Viktor's
Question. What if instead of tackling the bearing replacement, a whole new driveshaft is put in instead? Are there anything special requirements besides pulling the old one out and putting the new one back in?