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Wanted to do something similar on the 2 side tweeters to keep them from being too low in the cavities. These rubber pieces I had fit the bill perfectly - don't know what they came from. I did the same thing with the 3M trim tape on the bottom side.
Wanted to do something similar on the 2 side tweeters to keep them from being too low in the cavities. These rubber pieces I had fit the bill perfectly - don't know what they came from. I did the same thing with the 3M trim tape on the bottom side.
0 2017/08/31 20:41:59
Tweeter installed in center hole. Wires are from the sensor on the speaker cover.
Tweeter installed in center hole. Wires are from the sensor on the speaker cover.
0 2017/08/31 20:41:54
In looking into the speaker cavity, there is a section that has a bottom support. I used some 3M trim tape in the corresponding position of the rubber stopper and adhered the bottom of the stopper to this support.
In looking into the speaker cavity, there is a section that has a bottom support. I used some 3M trim tape in the corresponding position of the rubber stopper and adhered the bottom of the stopper to this support.
0 2017/08/31 20:41:47
Fully assembled tweeter on the mount
Fully assembled tweeter on the mount
0 2017/08/31 20:41:42
Once I removed the OEM center speaker, I realized it was in a fairly deep hole. Tweeters sound best when they're as far up as possible so I didn't want to just set the tweeter in the bottom of the cavity. I happened to have a perfectly sized rubber stopper on-hand so I mounted the tweeter mount to the top of the rubber stopper. This would allow me to securely mount the tweeter in the center cavity, but have it up near the top of the dashboard for the best sound.
Once I removed the OEM center speaker, I realized it was in a fairly deep hole. Tweeters sound best when they're as far up as possible so I didn't want to just set the tweeter in the bottom of the cavity. I happened to have a perfectly sized rubber stopper on-hand so I mounted the tweeter mount to the top of the rubber stopper. This would allow me to securely mount the tweeter in the center cavity, but have it up near the top of the dashboard for the best sound.
0 2017/08/31 20:41:36
Top view of the mount screwed into the top of the rubber stopper. You can see the hole drilled through the stopper at about 10 o'clock for the tweeter wires to pass through.
Top view of the mount screwed into the top of the rubber stopper. You can see the hole drilled through the stopper at about 10 o'clock for the tweeter wires to pass through.
0 2017/08/31 20:41:32
Speaker attached to mount with baffle, ready to install back into the door.
Speaker attached to mount with baffle, ready to install back into the door.
0 2017/08/31 20:16:43
The holes of the Focal 8" speaker lined up perfectly with the OEM speaker mount, however, because they're much higher quality and have a larger magnet, they're quite a bit deeper than the plastic vented panel would allow. I used a razor knife and some wire cutters to remove the plastic vented area from the speaker mount.
The holes of the Focal 8" speaker lined up perfectly with the OEM speaker mount, however, because they're much higher quality and have a larger magnet, they're quite a bit deeper than the plastic vented panel would allow. I used a razor knife and some wire cutters to remove the plastic vented area from the speaker mount.
0 2017/08/31 20:16:36
Then on the back side I adhered some foam rubber drawer liner to the back of the speaker with a couple of glue dots. The purpose is toe make sure the metal magnet doesn't come in contact with the metal inner door panel, causing a metallic vibration or noise.
Then on the back side I adhered some foam rubber drawer liner to the back of the speaker with a couple of glue dots. The purpose is toe make sure the metal magnet doesn't come in contact with the metal inner door panel, causing a metallic vibration or noise.
0 2017/08/31 20:16:31
4" speaker installed in door panel
4" speaker installed in door panel
0 2017/08/31 20:16:24
In test fitting the speaker mounting screws, I noticed they were bottoming out in the door panel holes before securing the speaker well. I put the screw through a metal washer then decent thckness rubber washer to not only cushion the speaker mount and prevent vibration, but also allow the screw to securely attach the speaker to the door panel without bottoming out.
In test fitting the speaker mounting screws, I noticed they were bottoming out in the door panel holes before securing the speaker well. I put the screw through a metal washer then decent thckness rubber washer to not only cushion the speaker mount and prevent vibration, but also allow the screw to securely attach the speaker to the door panel without bottoming out.
0 2017/08/31 20:16:18
Pleasantly, the 4" coax speakers also line up with the mounting holes in the door panel. I broke off 2 of the 4 mounting tabs, and used the thin foam ring that came with the Focal speaker grills for the face of the speaker to press against once mounted in the door panel.
Pleasantly, the 4" coax speakers also line up with the mounting holes in the door panel. I broke off 2 of the 4 mounting tabs, and used the thin foam ring that came with the Focal speaker grills for the face of the speaker to press against once mounted in the door panel.
0 2017/08/31 20:16:14
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There is just enough room to get a ball end allen key into the socket caps of the gold bolts. Tighten each one a little and keep moving around until all of them are tight.
There is just enough room to get a ball end allen key into the socket caps of the gold bolts. Tighten each one a little and keep moving around until all of them are tight.
0 2017/08/31 20:16:07
I then placed a Boom Mat speaker baffle into the opening, which encapsulates the speaker. These do 2 things - they protect the speaker from any moisture that gets inside the door and the foam acts as a seal to the mounting surface (same thing I'd been doing with the weatherstripping during the other installations). Tip: there is not enough clearance around the 8" speaker to get the mounting bolts in once the speaker is mounted so those need to be in the holes first.
I then placed a Boom Mat speaker baffle into the opening, which encapsulates the speaker. These do 2 things - they protect the speaker from any moisture that gets inside the door and the foam acts as a seal to the mounting surface (same thing I'd been doing with the weatherstripping during the other installations). Tip: there is not enough clearance around the 8" speaker to get the mounting bolts in once the speaker is mounted so those need to be in the holes first.
0 2017/08/31 20:16:00
Note the bolts in the mounts already. Once I had the speaker wired up through the baffle, and mounted to the mount with the baffle sandwiched between, I trimmed off the protruding corners of the foam with a razor knife.
Note the bolts in the mounts already. Once I had the speaker wired up through the baffle, and mounted to the mount with the baffle sandwiched between, I trimmed off the protruding corners of the foam with a razor knife.
0 2017/08/31 20:15:54
I used a 1.75" hole saw in the drill press, which was just about perfect, then used a thick rubber o-ring around the circumference of the tweeter before attaching the grill in order to give it a nice finished look. Now you can tell there's an upgrade in there, but I think it looks pretty clean and sounds great.
I used a 1.75" hole saw in the drill press, which was just about perfect, then used a thick rubber o-ring around the circumference of the tweeter before attaching the grill in order to give it a nice finished look. Now you can tell there's an upgrade in there, but I think it looks pretty clean and sounds great.
0 2017/08/31 19:57:13
I traced the shape of the OEM mounting plate onto a piece of Lexan than then cut it out with my band saw and hole saw in a drill press. I had to break off one of the 4 speaker mounting tabs to prevent interference with the speaker grill mounting slots. I used a bracket I have for mounting things into slatwall which fit into the slot in the car to hold it perfectly. Once I had the plate built, I covered it with some black vinyl so it would look good through the speaker grill.
I traced the shape of the OEM mounting plate onto a piece of Lexan than then cut it out with my band saw and hole saw in a drill press. I had to break off one of the 4 speaker mounting tabs to prevent interference with the speaker grill mounting slots. I used a bracket I have for mounting things into slatwall which fit into the slot in the car to hold it perfectly. Once I had the plate built, I covered it with some black vinyl so it would look good through the speaker grill.
0 2017/08/31 19:57:06
On the backside of the mounting plate I used more of the foam weatherstripping to make the plate seal with the opening which pushes all the sound forward (OEM plate has this molded in).
On the backside of the mounting plate I used more of the foam weatherstripping to make the plate seal with the opening which pushes all the sound forward (OEM plate has this molded in).
0 2017/08/31 19:57:01
This particular model of Focal Speaker has the extended tweeter with can be rotated & aimed. I went with these because being able to point the tweeter at the listener's ears makes for clearer highs in the music. You also want to try not to obstruct the tweeter with a grill in order to achieve the cleanest sound, so I modified the OEM speaker grill to allow the tweeter to protrude through.
This particular model of Focal Speaker has the extended tweeter with can be rotated & aimed. I went with these because being able to point the tweeter at the listener's ears makes for clearer highs in the music. You also want to try not to obstruct the tweeter with a grill in order to achieve the cleanest sound, so I modified the OEM speaker grill to allow the tweeter to protrude through.
0 2017/08/31 19:56:56
This is the OEM connector on the outside of the sub box. The Red wire is 12v + in, the Brown Wire is Ground, white is the Remote turn on lead for the amp (not used with this Alpine unit as it has signal sensing for auto turn on), and then the yellow wires are the signal input wires. Solid yellow for + and striped for -. The Amp needs bass signals on both the L & R + and - inputs (4). Crutchfield advised me to tie together both + inputs to the solid yellow & both - inputs to the striped one.
This is the OEM connector on the outside of the sub box. The Red wire is 12v + in, the Brown Wire is Ground, white is the Remote turn on lead for the amp (not used with this Alpine unit as it has signal sensing for auto turn on), and then the yellow wires are the signal input wires. Solid yellow for + and striped for -. The Amp needs bass signals on both the L & R + and - inputs (4). Crutchfield advised me to tie together both + inputs to the solid yellow & both - inputs to the striped one.
0 2017/08/31 19:46:07
Subs were wired in this fashion from the single output from the Alpine Amp. This creates a 2 Ohm load - same as the OEM setup.
Subs were wired in this fashion from the single output from the Alpine Amp. This creates a 2 Ohm load - same as the OEM setup.
0 2017/08/31 19:44:51
Here is a photo of all the OEM Bose equipment that was replaced - not shown here is the small subwoofer amp
Here is a photo of all the OEM Bose equipment that was replaced - not shown here is the small subwoofer amp
0 2017/08/31 19:29:04
Comparison between the Focal sub on the left and the OEM Bose sub on the right - too bad noone can see the quality of the Focal unit since it's sealed up in a box.
Comparison between the Focal sub on the left and the OEM Bose sub on the right - too bad noone can see the quality of the Focal unit since it's sealed up in a box.
0 2017/08/31 19:28:56
The mounting holes of the Focal subs were close, but did not align to the existing holes in the Bose sub box, so I fabricated adapter rings out of a polymer Kitchen cutting board. The plate mounts to the original holes and then I drilled new holes into the plate for the subs.
The mounting holes of the Focal subs were close, but did not align to the existing holes in the Bose sub box, so I fabricated adapter rings out of a polymer Kitchen cutting board. The plate mounts to the original holes and then I drilled new holes into the plate for the subs.
0 2017/08/31 19:28:50
I used some stainless washers between the amp and the plate to isolate the metal amp body from the Lexan plate to prevent the possibility of melting the plate.
I used some stainless washers between the amp and the plate to isolate the metal amp body from the Lexan plate to prevent the possibility of melting the plate.
0 2017/08/31 19:28:44
I went with this Alpine amp because it was rated more powerful than the OEM Bose unit, but did not need heavier gauge wire than what is in the plug on the outside of the subwoofer box. To start with, I made a mounting plate for the replacement subwoofer amp out of a piece of Lexan. Drilled holes to line up with the old mounting hole posts and then new holes for the amp mounting holes. I purposely shifted the mounting to the right a bit to allow space for the wiring to exit on that side.
I went with this Alpine amp because it was rated more powerful than the OEM Bose unit, but did not need heavier gauge wire than what is in the plug on the outside of the subwoofer box. To start with, I made a mounting plate for the replacement subwoofer amp out of a piece of Lexan. Drilled holes to line up with the old mounting hole posts and then new holes for the amp mounting holes. I purposely shifted the mounting to the right a bit to allow space for the wiring to exit on that side.
0 2017/08/31 19:28:38
First Focal sub installed and wired
First Focal sub installed and wired
0 2017/08/31 19:28:28
Completed and wired rear sub box.
Completed and wired rear sub box.
0 2017/08/31 19:28:22
0 2017/08/31 19:28:00
I used foam weatherstripping to seal the speaker circumference to the mounting plate (the oem hole already has an integrated similar sealing ring). I wanted to make sure all the air pushed through the port and there weren't any losses or vibration between the pieces.
I used foam weatherstripping to seal the speaker circumference to the mounting plate (the oem hole already has an integrated similar sealing ring). I wanted to make sure all the air pushed through the port and there weren't any losses or vibration between the pieces.
0 2017/08/31 19:27:40
0 2017/08/31 19:23:18
0 2017/08/31 19:22:55
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