Okay, so I can buy a cheap "Piwis" Chinese-made Durometric knockoff for $30 online.

I realize it has to be far inferior to a real Durometric, but I'm wondering if anyone on here has actually bought one and how it did?

My expectations are pretty low, but it would easily be worth my 30 bucks if it could clear my airbag light a couple times at the very least.

One day I'll get a real Durometric, but will one of these work in the mean time?

Thanks!

 

What kind of support are you going to get for that $30.00? What happens if you plug it into the OBDII port and you get an electrical back feed into the DME and fry it? Is that worth saving the 250 bucks?

 

Try it and let us know. It's only $30. TOFTT

 

lool

 

Frankly, I don't expect or need support for 30 bucks. But the second question is why I'm asking if someone else has already bought one and tried it.

 

How much juice can really flow through a USB port?

 

enough to still fry an ecu if there is some sort of arc from a bad connection, doesnt take much.

 

Yup, had a buddy who has a speed6 as his daily driver and had is ecu fried through the obdII port when a company was working on the car with questionable equipment.

 

Hi Allz, I have one ,works fine had it just about a year now shows live feeds etc ,clears codes ,airbags etc. Apparently I currently have a fault with my door lock causing my alarm to go off.
Some peolple would worry iof you gave them money ...

 

Thanks for all the replys. I also received a PM from someone that they have one of these and it has worked well for them. I would PM them back, but apparently I don't have enough posts.

Anyway, from the two people on here that own one, they say it works. I've seen countless people use cheap obdII scanners on other makes and models without ever hearing of a computer being fried. I'm not sure why this would be any different, but boy would that suck though.

Is there anyone out there who actually had one of these cause a problem?

 

I second that and would insist that this is taken one step farther...I need a link to a video of you plugging the unit into the car, pulling a code then removing it and starting the car to prove it has not fried the computer. If not then it never happened.

 

its not a knock off, my buddy bought it for $50 shipped. Its an older version of the software with the cable that plugs into the USB on a laptop. I saw the disc its made by Durametric in 2006.

He showed me a ton of features and cleared the code my car had after I tried the airbox mod with a cap over the noise inlet-the little Y hose that comes from the throttle body into the airbox. It caused my CEL to come on, I removed the cap, he cleared the code and all is well again.

Another thing I learned is that the climate control display trick that shows the coolant temp in C is off, reading higher on average about 7 or 8 degrees more than the Durametric Software showed after driving around with it plugged in for 45 minutes. He sent me a link where he bought it.

http://www.tool4car.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products _id=125

 

Any cheap code reader can clear CELs, but id be all over this if it can clear airbag lights. The description says it does, but has anyone tried that yet?

My guess is that it is not an "older version" but rather a bootleg

 

This is what I received in PM:

"I have a chinese knock off cable, works like the real cable, not limited to 3 usewrs, when the durametric starts up, it detects it as a conterfeit cable, but still works. turned off my air bag light, so worth the 30.00"

So this person says it worked on the air bag light.

 

Happy to hear about this - we need all the cost savings we can get for maintaining these cars!! (well I do)