I am getting deeper into my DIY mode and now am thinking about lubricating the rear GMG sway bar of my car. The D clamp is supposed to be tightened with a torque wrench, AFAIK 17 ft. lbs.

So does a simple analog model like this one from Sears work?
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-torqu...p-00944978000P

Then there is a better analog model:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...4593000P?mv=rr

And also digital model:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...4597000P?mv=rr

Any input appreciated. I am a complete amateur and don't do any major work on the car at all. The only time I go under is to adjust the sway bar.

 

Stay away from the first one on your list. I have always used the second one, the analog model. Just make sure that you follow the instructions and return it to the zero setting before storing.

 

Can the two quality wrenches you linked start at 25ft/lbs and you just said you need 17...

 

TQ wrenches, DIY, can't believe what I'm reading.
Seriously, craftsman makes a nice analog that goes 5-100 ft lbs.
You'll find DIY projects very gratifying. You'll kick yourself for spending all that cash at tuners, 50% of the stuff is easily DIY.
Next thing you'll actually take that sled to the track
enjoy

 

Can, I use the Microtork you linked in #2.

 

I've used the same for years, probably getting close to 10 now, always worked great. Just don't leave it set to your last torque #, always set it back to zero to keep the calibration and don't drop it or hit it.

But like I said above Can says he needs 17ft/lbs and this wrench starts a 25 so you'll need a smaller one for that job.

17ft/lbs is 204 inch/lbs so you could get a torque wrench that does 200 inch/lbs and it would be about 16.75ft/lbs.

This one is often times on sale or has a coupon available for $9.99-$14.99:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...ench-2696.html

Or you can rent it for free from Autozone for a $50 retainer.

 

Thanks everyone for the helpful replies. Sears number 2 it will be.
Chris, as I told Bob a while ago, my DIY days are not going to last long. My neck, shoulder, *and* elbow hurt for a couple of weeks after the last drop link change (was just trying different ones to see the difference). Partly because of my inexperience, partly because I don't have a real high lift and was crawling under working like Michelangelo. Difference is he painted whereas I was pulling apart !@#$%! rusty metals.

Hi Jenner, thanks I did notice that. But, the specs for the Sears microtork are in. lbs., not ft. lbs.:
>>>>
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...00100600&aff=Y
Craftsman Microtork® Torque Wrench, 25-250 in. lbs., 3/8 in. Drive
>>>>
In other words, my 17 ft. lbs. requirement = 204 in. lbs. should be ok, I think? This is for the D clamps on the rear sway bar of our Turbo.

 

Wow I must be going blind...I looked at the picture and it looks identical to my foot/lb wrench. My bad you are all set!

 

"The Best"? Depends what you are going to use it for. I'm strengthening my motor so I picked up one of these beauties. CDI torque-angle wrench. Torque calibration is not off more than 0.6%!

 

Eastwood now sells a digital torque wrench w/a torque angle meter which looks very close to the one posted by TTdude, it also looks like the one I use from Snap on.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-torque-wrenches

 

Mititoyo (MTI)
Sturdavent Richmond
Proto (very good for the money)
Mountz
CDI
Belknap
Blackhawk (Value Proto brand)
Utica (Division of Cooper Tools)
Armstrong Hand Tools (also a div of Cooper)
JH Williams
SK

I would go with Proto or CDI although all the above are good. Stay away from the "truck" people as they are WAY overpriced and its NOT a matter of "you get what you pay for - they live and die by financing to their customers). Sears sells whomever builds to their specs (lowest price gets it). Proto is lifetime as is CDI but as all should be calibrated once or twice per year depending on how often you use it. I would go digital as you can switch from metric to fractional by the push of a button.

 

It still surprises me the amount of information you get on any given issue by posting here. Thanks for taking the time to answer with such details. It sounds like you are a torque wrench dealer! Are these 2 what you are talking about:

Proto: http://www.amazon.com/SEPTLS5776006C-Pound-Ratchet-Torque-Wrenches/dp/B000OEXA22/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=IGPZYAF4457RS&co lid=1VGQTI9XJGIYD

CDI: http://www.amazon.com/Snap-Industrial-Torque-1002MFRMH-100-Foot/dp/B002LA19P2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I450T55A1HKYN&co lid=1VGQTI9XJGIYD

 

We use Snap On, Facom or Hazet.

 

Buy this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-Torq...639426&vxp=mtr

 

Many of the Porsche techs I know use Hazet. Excellent tools, but pricey for the home DIYer.