Spark plug gap / plug brand and type on "higher boost" applications over 600hp?
#1
04-10-2014, 01:09 PM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Finland, Europe
Posts: 107
Rep Power: 18 
Spark plug gap / plug brand and type on "higher boost" applications over 600hp?
Those of you who have higher boost applications on your TT:s, say more than a pipe and tune, which spark plug (NGK, DENSO,BOSCH?) and what model number are you using and what spark plug gap ? What are the recommendations from the tuners on the higher boost applications?
I am running the EVT 775 package with the updated coil packs and after recent plug change (under 1000kms), I am getting some misfire under full / semi full boost at 4000-6000rpm.
The code is P0003 (Durametric Pro) which indicates random / multiple misfires on multiple cylinders. This is coming up repeatedly under boost.
I assume this is quite much telling me that all the cylinders are acting wrong the same way.
At this point I am suspecting I may have wrong specced plugs / wrong gap
I am running the EVT 775 package with the updated coil packs and after recent plug change (under 1000kms), I am getting some misfire under full / semi full boost at 4000-6000rpm.
The code is P0003 (Durametric Pro) which indicates random / multiple misfires on multiple cylinders. This is coming up repeatedly under boost.
I assume this is quite much telling me that all the cylinders are acting wrong the same way.
At this point I am suspecting I may have wrong specced plugs / wrong gap
#2
04-24-2014, 09:47 PM
This is a typical issue where logic and the basics are often overlooked and should be first used.
Recent plug change. Here is my advice.
Were the same plugs type etc re installed? If not did they fit the same heat range and firing end? If the heat range was increased then the plug could be overheating and causing some misfiring in the cylinder due to pre ignition and detonation. If the plug is too cold, then the plug could be fouling as it cannot clean its self of any oil and other in cylinder dirt. Remember a plug cannot produce heat, it can only remove it from the chamber.
If the firing end was changed, did the center electrode get moved out into the chamber further. The center electrode has less insulator around it. This will do several things. It will make the plug itself run hotter as more of the center electrode is exposed to the chamber temperature, the plug has less ability to remove the heat and transfer it to the Cylinder head and it could also make the engine misfire due to the plug been exposed more to cylinder pressure acting upon the flame core. This is what is typically known as ‘blowing out the spark”. Or the center electrode could have been pulled way back inside the plug. There is more insulator around the electrode. This makes the plug run colder as this type of plug usually has a colder heat range as it has less exposed center electrode to the chamber gases and it has more ability to transfer the heat from the chamber through the plug into the Cylinder head.
Did they use too much anti seize on the threads. This is a common fault and often is the cause of a lot of misfires. The current has to return to the battery via the ground path through the body of the plug into the Cylinder head , down the ground strap and back through the body of the car into the battery negative terminal. Add in another insulator in the form of anti seize and you have a common problem. Use the very least as possible and none is best. Just make sure the threads are clean. Most plugs today come pre treated with special plating that requires no anti seize to be used. Are the Coils seated properly.
As for what plug is best. That’s a hard one to answer. The engine will tell you what plug to use. Read the plug for what is happening inside the chamber. This has to be done after doing an ignition cut from full load with new plugs. I don’t wish to bore you with how. If you don’t know, have someone close by that knows, look at the plugs. As I do not know the specs of your engine I cannot advise but suggest. The rule of thumb as always, start off with the coldest plug and work up the heat range until the plug shows that it is happy. Today we have a lot more choices of electrode material. Precious metals have become common place. These are a lot harder and withstand the abuse we often place upon the plugs. Electrode diameter has become very small as the current required to jump the gap is less. It takes less current to go through a fine wire than a thick one due to less resistance. More current means greater energy is released into the flame core. More energy means greater in cylinder temperature and its temperature that ignites the mixture, not the spark itself.
You also say you have updated Coil packs? Are these OK? Updated how? If these have been modified from stock, have these failed?
The RPM you say the misfires occur would be around peak torque I would expect. This is when the cylinder pressure is the highest, and the flame core under the most stress. Gap is important here and Turbo engines require less gap as the cylinder pressures are higher than NA engines, Plugs are colder and more retracted. Closing the gap should be the last thing to try. Check all of the other things first. Basics before getting too technical.
I’m figuring you need a 14.00mm plug with a ¾" reach and a 5/8" hex. The issue becomes, when you have high powered street cars there is a compromise required. You need a plug with good ignitability, good self cleaning ability as the car does a lot of its driving at low boost and lower RPM’s and at other times under high boost, high RPM’s. Race engines run at WOT and high boost most of the time so we use plugs that suit this type of operation.
Its hard to recommend a plug without knowing more engine info and how, where and when the engine is driven. Here is a suggestion in NGK that is an affordable plug. BKR9EIX. This is a 14.00mm x ¾" reach with a 5/8" hex. It has an Iridium fine wire electrode, with a firing end that is approx half way between a typical projected end and fully retracted type. Make sure this is the correct fitment for your engine first. Then try, do a WOT high boost ignition cut, safely, then remove and look at the plug firing end. It will tell you if the heat range is good, if the Ignition timing is Ok, not to retarded or advanced and if there is any detonation going on, the fueling is good and also if you have issues with Piston Ring or Valve guides. If all looks good except the plug appears to cold, then move up to a 8 heat range. The engine will tell you what you need.
Hope this helps and I’m not too late to help. And sorry for the “War and Peace” post.
Recent plug change. Here is my advice.
Were the same plugs type etc re installed? If not did they fit the same heat range and firing end? If the heat range was increased then the plug could be overheating and causing some misfiring in the cylinder due to pre ignition and detonation. If the plug is too cold, then the plug could be fouling as it cannot clean its self of any oil and other in cylinder dirt. Remember a plug cannot produce heat, it can only remove it from the chamber.
If the firing end was changed, did the center electrode get moved out into the chamber further. The center electrode has less insulator around it. This will do several things. It will make the plug itself run hotter as more of the center electrode is exposed to the chamber temperature, the plug has less ability to remove the heat and transfer it to the Cylinder head and it could also make the engine misfire due to the plug been exposed more to cylinder pressure acting upon the flame core. This is what is typically known as ‘blowing out the spark”. Or the center electrode could have been pulled way back inside the plug. There is more insulator around the electrode. This makes the plug run colder as this type of plug usually has a colder heat range as it has less exposed center electrode to the chamber gases and it has more ability to transfer the heat from the chamber through the plug into the Cylinder head.
Did they use too much anti seize on the threads. This is a common fault and often is the cause of a lot of misfires. The current has to return to the battery via the ground path through the body of the plug into the Cylinder head , down the ground strap and back through the body of the car into the battery negative terminal. Add in another insulator in the form of anti seize and you have a common problem. Use the very least as possible and none is best. Just make sure the threads are clean. Most plugs today come pre treated with special plating that requires no anti seize to be used. Are the Coils seated properly.
As for what plug is best. That’s a hard one to answer. The engine will tell you what plug to use. Read the plug for what is happening inside the chamber. This has to be done after doing an ignition cut from full load with new plugs. I don’t wish to bore you with how. If you don’t know, have someone close by that knows, look at the plugs. As I do not know the specs of your engine I cannot advise but suggest. The rule of thumb as always, start off with the coldest plug and work up the heat range until the plug shows that it is happy. Today we have a lot more choices of electrode material. Precious metals have become common place. These are a lot harder and withstand the abuse we often place upon the plugs. Electrode diameter has become very small as the current required to jump the gap is less. It takes less current to go through a fine wire than a thick one due to less resistance. More current means greater energy is released into the flame core. More energy means greater in cylinder temperature and its temperature that ignites the mixture, not the spark itself.
You also say you have updated Coil packs? Are these OK? Updated how? If these have been modified from stock, have these failed?
The RPM you say the misfires occur would be around peak torque I would expect. This is when the cylinder pressure is the highest, and the flame core under the most stress. Gap is important here and Turbo engines require less gap as the cylinder pressures are higher than NA engines, Plugs are colder and more retracted. Closing the gap should be the last thing to try. Check all of the other things first. Basics before getting too technical.
I’m figuring you need a 14.00mm plug with a ¾" reach and a 5/8" hex. The issue becomes, when you have high powered street cars there is a compromise required. You need a plug with good ignitability, good self cleaning ability as the car does a lot of its driving at low boost and lower RPM’s and at other times under high boost, high RPM’s. Race engines run at WOT and high boost most of the time so we use plugs that suit this type of operation.
Its hard to recommend a plug without knowing more engine info and how, where and when the engine is driven. Here is a suggestion in NGK that is an affordable plug. BKR9EIX. This is a 14.00mm x ¾" reach with a 5/8" hex. It has an Iridium fine wire electrode, with a firing end that is approx half way between a typical projected end and fully retracted type. Make sure this is the correct fitment for your engine first. Then try, do a WOT high boost ignition cut, safely, then remove and look at the plug firing end. It will tell you if the heat range is good, if the Ignition timing is Ok, not to retarded or advanced and if there is any detonation going on, the fueling is good and also if you have issues with Piston Ring or Valve guides. If all looks good except the plug appears to cold, then move up to a 8 heat range. The engine will tell you what you need.
Hope this helps and I’m not too late to help. And sorry for the “War and Peace” post.
Last edited by 411; 04-25-2014 at 01:14 AM.
#3
04-29-2014, 06:43 PM
This is a typical issue where logic and the basics are often overlooked and should be first used.
Recent plug change. Here is my advice.
Were the same plugs type etc re installed? If not did they fit the same heat range and firing end? If the heat range was increased then the plug could be overheating and causing some misfiring in the cylinder due to pre ignition and detonation. If the plug is too cold, then the plug could be fouling as it cannot clean its self of any oil and other in cylinder dirt. Remember a plug cannot produce heat, it can only remove it from the chamber.
If the firing end was changed, did the center electrode get moved out into the chamber further. The center electrode has less insulator around it. This will do several things. It will make the plug itself run hotter as more of the center electrode is exposed to the chamber temperature, the plug has less ability to remove the heat and transfer it to the Cylinder head and it could also make the engine misfire due to the plug been exposed more to cylinder pressure acting upon the flame core. This is what is typically known as ‘blowing out the spark”. Or the center electrode could have been pulled way back inside the plug. There is more insulator around the electrode. This makes the plug run colder as this type of plug usually has a colder heat range as it has less exposed center electrode to the chamber gases and it has more ability to transfer the heat from the chamber through the plug into the Cylinder head.
Did they use too much anti seize on the threads. This is a common fault and often is the cause of a lot of misfires. The current has to return to the battery via the ground path through the body of the plug into the Cylinder head , down the ground strap and back through the body of the car into the battery negative terminal. Add in another insulator in the form of anti seize and you have a common problem. Use the very least as possible and none is best. Just make sure the threads are clean. Most plugs today come pre treated with special plating that requires no anti seize to be used. Are the Coils seated properly.
As for what plug is best. That’s a hard one to answer. The engine will tell you what plug to use. Read the plug for what is happening inside the chamber. This has to be done after doing an ignition cut from full load with new plugs. I don’t wish to bore you with how. If you don’t know, have someone close by that knows, look at the plugs. As I do not know the specs of your engine I cannot advise but suggest. The rule of thumb as always, start off with the coldest plug and work up the heat range until the plug shows that it is happy. Today we have a lot more choices of electrode material. Precious metals have become common place. These are a lot harder and withstand the abuse we often place upon the plugs. Electrode diameter has become very small as the current required to jump the gap is less. It takes less current to go through a fine wire than a thick one due to less resistance. More current means greater energy is released into the flame core. More energy means greater in cylinder temperature and its temperature that ignites the mixture, not the spark itself.
You also say you have updated Coil packs? Are these OK? Updated how? If these have been modified from stock, have these failed?
The RPM you say the misfires occur would be around peak torque I would expect. This is when the cylinder pressure is the highest, and the flame core under the most stress. Gap is important here and Turbo engines require less gap as the cylinder pressures are higher than NA engines, Plugs are colder and more retracted. Closing the gap should be the last thing to try. Check all of the other things first. Basics before getting too technical.
I’m figuring you need a 14.00mm plug with a ¾" reach and a 5/8" hex. The issue becomes, when you have high powered street cars there is a compromise required. You need a plug with good ignitability, good self cleaning ability as the car does a lot of its driving at low boost and lower RPM’s and at other times under high boost, high RPM’s. Race engines run at WOT and high boost most of the time so we use plugs that suit this type of operation.
Its hard to recommend a plug without knowing more engine info and how, where and when the engine is driven. Here is a suggestion in NGK that is an affordable plug. BKR9EIX. This is a 14.00mm x ¾" reach with a 5/8" hex. It has an Iridium fine wire electrode, with a firing end that is approx half way between a typical projected end and fully retracted type. Make sure this is the correct fitment for your engine first. Then try, do a WOT high boost ignition cut, safely, then remove and look at the plug firing end. It will tell you if the heat range is good, if the Ignition timing is Ok, not to retarded or advanced and if there is any detonation going on, the fueling is good and also if you have issues with Piston Ring or Valve guides. If all looks good except the plug appears to cold, then move up to a 8 heat range. The engine will tell you what you need.
Hope this helps and I’m not too late to help. And sorry for the “War and Peace” post.
Recent plug change. Here is my advice.
Were the same plugs type etc re installed? If not did they fit the same heat range and firing end? If the heat range was increased then the plug could be overheating and causing some misfiring in the cylinder due to pre ignition and detonation. If the plug is too cold, then the plug could be fouling as it cannot clean its self of any oil and other in cylinder dirt. Remember a plug cannot produce heat, it can only remove it from the chamber.
If the firing end was changed, did the center electrode get moved out into the chamber further. The center electrode has less insulator around it. This will do several things. It will make the plug itself run hotter as more of the center electrode is exposed to the chamber temperature, the plug has less ability to remove the heat and transfer it to the Cylinder head and it could also make the engine misfire due to the plug been exposed more to cylinder pressure acting upon the flame core. This is what is typically known as ‘blowing out the spark”. Or the center electrode could have been pulled way back inside the plug. There is more insulator around the electrode. This makes the plug run colder as this type of plug usually has a colder heat range as it has less exposed center electrode to the chamber gases and it has more ability to transfer the heat from the chamber through the plug into the Cylinder head.
Did they use too much anti seize on the threads. This is a common fault and often is the cause of a lot of misfires. The current has to return to the battery via the ground path through the body of the plug into the Cylinder head , down the ground strap and back through the body of the car into the battery negative terminal. Add in another insulator in the form of anti seize and you have a common problem. Use the very least as possible and none is best. Just make sure the threads are clean. Most plugs today come pre treated with special plating that requires no anti seize to be used. Are the Coils seated properly.
As for what plug is best. That’s a hard one to answer. The engine will tell you what plug to use. Read the plug for what is happening inside the chamber. This has to be done after doing an ignition cut from full load with new plugs. I don’t wish to bore you with how. If you don’t know, have someone close by that knows, look at the plugs. As I do not know the specs of your engine I cannot advise but suggest. The rule of thumb as always, start off with the coldest plug and work up the heat range until the plug shows that it is happy. Today we have a lot more choices of electrode material. Precious metals have become common place. These are a lot harder and withstand the abuse we often place upon the plugs. Electrode diameter has become very small as the current required to jump the gap is less. It takes less current to go through a fine wire than a thick one due to less resistance. More current means greater energy is released into the flame core. More energy means greater in cylinder temperature and its temperature that ignites the mixture, not the spark itself.
You also say you have updated Coil packs? Are these OK? Updated how? If these have been modified from stock, have these failed?
The RPM you say the misfires occur would be around peak torque I would expect. This is when the cylinder pressure is the highest, and the flame core under the most stress. Gap is important here and Turbo engines require less gap as the cylinder pressures are higher than NA engines, Plugs are colder and more retracted. Closing the gap should be the last thing to try. Check all of the other things first. Basics before getting too technical.
I’m figuring you need a 14.00mm plug with a ¾" reach and a 5/8" hex. The issue becomes, when you have high powered street cars there is a compromise required. You need a plug with good ignitability, good self cleaning ability as the car does a lot of its driving at low boost and lower RPM’s and at other times under high boost, high RPM’s. Race engines run at WOT and high boost most of the time so we use plugs that suit this type of operation.
Its hard to recommend a plug without knowing more engine info and how, where and when the engine is driven. Here is a suggestion in NGK that is an affordable plug. BKR9EIX. This is a 14.00mm x ¾" reach with a 5/8" hex. It has an Iridium fine wire electrode, with a firing end that is approx half way between a typical projected end and fully retracted type. Make sure this is the correct fitment for your engine first. Then try, do a WOT high boost ignition cut, safely, then remove and look at the plug firing end. It will tell you if the heat range is good, if the Ignition timing is Ok, not to retarded or advanced and if there is any detonation going on, the fueling is good and also if you have issues with Piston Ring or Valve guides. If all looks good except the plug appears to cold, then move up to a 8 heat range. The engine will tell you what you need.
Hope this helps and I’m not too late to help. And sorry for the “War and Peace” post.
What would you recommend as the starting gap of the above mentioned NGK plugs? Figure, high outside temps and spirited driving with lots of stop and go? Again, I appreciate your time.
#4
04-30-2014, 12:47 PM
Again, it is hard to give an absolute without knowing more about your engine and boost levels.
Just a little background without getting to technical. You had stated that you are having issues around 6000 RPM. At 6000 RPM you have 20ms to complete 1 engine cycle which includes 1 Ignition firing event. From this with the Timing advance programmed, you can figure out the time or off time that remains to charge the Coil. As the RPM is increased the event time decreases.
With individual Coils used on these engines, there is plenty of time to fully charge to coils. The biggest demand upon the Ignition is at peak Torque which is typically when you have peak cylinder pressure.
Not sure what you have in the way of Coils. You state they are modified. Not sure what that means. Let’s just consider you have something similar to the stock Coil output of approx 50mJ. Not very powerful for high boosted engines but typical for a street engine. Not sure if the dwell time (charge time) in the stock mapping or if it is adjusted to suit these Coils, but I would have thought that to fully charge this Coil at 12V with 7A primary, is around 2-4 ms. Because I do not know these Coils you are using I have to assume some things. The actual dwell time can be measured to be sure.
Is any of this important? It is if you start adjusting the plug gap and do not know if the Coil is fully charged. Misfires can happen if the Coils are not fully charged as it can happen with a gap too large. Remember with Inductive Ignition you have to discharge the Coil as soon as it is fully charged. If not it will over heat and after time fail or possibly the driver inside the ECU fail. I do not think you have an issue with the coils not been fully charged but modified coils do concern me. There is always a lot of hype attached to this sort of thing and it is very important to fully understand what you are actually buying. Whatever is stated, you cannot defy the laws of physics and electrical.
Boosted engines require less of a gap as the cylinder pressures are higher and require more voltage to jump the same gap. The voltage cannot be increased, so the gap has to be decreased.
The plug I suggested is a fine wire and therefore requires less voltage to jump the gap. Use a wire gage not a feeler type gage. I would measure the gap as they come. It should be 0.032” The minimum this plug can be gapped to is 0.024”. Otherwise the ground strap is not in the correct relationship to the center electrode. I would start with 0.028”.
Make sure the plug heat range and the firing end is right for this engine. I can only suggest as I do not know your engine.
Just a little background without getting to technical. You had stated that you are having issues around 6000 RPM. At 6000 RPM you have 20ms to complete 1 engine cycle which includes 1 Ignition firing event. From this with the Timing advance programmed, you can figure out the time or off time that remains to charge the Coil. As the RPM is increased the event time decreases.
With individual Coils used on these engines, there is plenty of time to fully charge to coils. The biggest demand upon the Ignition is at peak Torque which is typically when you have peak cylinder pressure.
Not sure what you have in the way of Coils. You state they are modified. Not sure what that means. Let’s just consider you have something similar to the stock Coil output of approx 50mJ. Not very powerful for high boosted engines but typical for a street engine. Not sure if the dwell time (charge time) in the stock mapping or if it is adjusted to suit these Coils, but I would have thought that to fully charge this Coil at 12V with 7A primary, is around 2-4 ms. Because I do not know these Coils you are using I have to assume some things. The actual dwell time can be measured to be sure.
Is any of this important? It is if you start adjusting the plug gap and do not know if the Coil is fully charged. Misfires can happen if the Coils are not fully charged as it can happen with a gap too large. Remember with Inductive Ignition you have to discharge the Coil as soon as it is fully charged. If not it will over heat and after time fail or possibly the driver inside the ECU fail. I do not think you have an issue with the coils not been fully charged but modified coils do concern me. There is always a lot of hype attached to this sort of thing and it is very important to fully understand what you are actually buying. Whatever is stated, you cannot defy the laws of physics and electrical.
Boosted engines require less of a gap as the cylinder pressures are higher and require more voltage to jump the same gap. The voltage cannot be increased, so the gap has to be decreased.
The plug I suggested is a fine wire and therefore requires less voltage to jump the gap. Use a wire gage not a feeler type gage. I would measure the gap as they come. It should be 0.032” The minimum this plug can be gapped to is 0.024”. Otherwise the ground strap is not in the correct relationship to the center electrode. I would start with 0.028”.
Make sure the plug heat range and the firing end is right for this engine. I can only suggest as I do not know your engine.
#5
05-07-2014, 12:16 PM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Finland, Europe
Posts: 107
Rep Power: 18
In my case it proved to be a failing ignition coil on cylinder number 2.
We found the problem using Durametric diagnosis by using the individual cylinder misfire counters.
The problem is now solved and was not related to the NGK plugs or their specs / gap at all.
The coils are modified ones, yes.
The coils used are not stock coils, but the "HED" coils from the EvoMs EVT 775 package.
They are originally Mercedes (SL 500,600) Bosch coils modified to fit the 997 TT with the collar.
They should have 40% more oomph than the original ones and thus can support gap of 0,8-0,9mm according to Evoms.
Recommended plug to be used is Denso, with 0,8mm gap.
We found the problem using Durametric diagnosis by using the individual cylinder misfire counters.
The problem is now solved and was not related to the NGK plugs or their specs / gap at all.
The coils are modified ones, yes.
The coils used are not stock coils, but the "HED" coils from the EvoMs EVT 775 package.
They are originally Mercedes (SL 500,600) Bosch coils modified to fit the 997 TT with the collar.
They should have 40% more oomph than the original ones and thus can support gap of 0,8-0,9mm according to Evoms.
Recommended plug to be used is Denso, with 0,8mm gap.
#6
05-07-2014, 01:06 PM
Glad you found the problem.
It is usually a simple fix. The problem often with Coils right on top of the Plug is the heat soak they have to absorb. This has and will continue to be an issue. Porsche engines are probably the worst for this because of the engine layout. Most engines have the coils on top of the engine well away from exhaust heat. They only have to contend with the heat for the Cylinder head.
Be careful of modified Coils of any sort. As for extra “power” they can generate I am always every skeptical of these sort of claims. I think you will find the MB Bosch Coil is rated at 50mJ which is the same as the Beru stock coil.
It is usually a simple fix. The problem often with Coils right on top of the Plug is the heat soak they have to absorb. This has and will continue to be an issue. Porsche engines are probably the worst for this because of the engine layout. Most engines have the coils on top of the engine well away from exhaust heat. They only have to contend with the heat for the Cylinder head.
Be careful of modified Coils of any sort. As for extra “power” they can generate I am always every skeptical of these sort of claims. I think you will find the MB Bosch Coil is rated at 50mJ which is the same as the Beru stock coil.
#7
05-29-2014, 07:23 PM
subscribed. forgive in advance but didn't want to begin a new thread..
so any advice is appreciated,.. but i have had coil issues ( cracked ) twice ( bosch oem 997 coils superceded part w Bosch FR6LDC plugs ) running k16/24's and a 1.3 tune..
would you think it wise to switch to the bbi plasma coils?? they're pricey! but i've heard good things about their ability to handle increased power level(s)
thx in advance!
so any advice is appreciated,.. but i have had coil issues ( cracked ) twice ( bosch oem 997 coils superceded part w Bosch FR6LDC plugs ) running k16/24's and a 1.3 tune..
would you think it wise to switch to the bbi plasma coils?? they're pricey! but i've heard good things about their ability to handle increased power level(s)
thx in advance!
Trending Topics
#8
05-29-2014, 09:15 PM
Changing coilsh
subscribed. forgive in advance but didn't want to begin a new thread..
so any advice is appreciated,.. but i have had coil issues ( cracked ) twice ( bosch oem 997 coils superceded part w Bosch FR6LDC plugs ) running k16/24's and a 1.3 tune..
would you think it wise to switch to the bbi plasma coils?? they're pricey! but i've heard good things about their ability to handle increased power level(s)
thx in advance!
so any advice is appreciated,.. but i have had coil issues ( cracked ) twice ( bosch oem 997 coils superceded part w Bosch FR6LDC plugs ) running k16/24's and a 1.3 tune..
would you think it wise to switch to the bbi plasma coils?? they're pricey! but i've heard good things about their ability to handle increased power level(s)
thx in advance!
#9
05-29-2014, 09:28 PM
thanks for the reply. i'm not sure why mine might be failing "early" ( if in fact they even are? ) and i'm running the 997 coils currently, as i suppose anyone using stock coils is, if they have changed them? but thought it strange that another coil should crack in under 6-7k miles!?
i suppose tuned cars burn stuff up more quickly.. eg plugs. i think i'll stick with the bosch oem coils and just pay to play.. again, .. thank you.
i suppose tuned cars burn stuff up more quickly.. eg plugs. i think i'll stick with the bosch oem coils and just pay to play.. again, .. thank you.
#10
05-31-2014, 12:32 PM
Good call. Regardless of what coil you buy and fit, unless you address the heat issue the same failure will repeat itself. Modified engines produce more heat too. If they produce more torque. Or the Ignition timing could be retarded some and up goes the Exhaust temps. Back pressure also can add more heat to the Exhaust system.
Just be smart about buying aftermarket stuff, make sure it does whats its sold to do and not just make the seller empty your wallet. So much stuff is sold with claims that are never able to be matched with use.
Just be smart about buying aftermarket stuff, make sure it does whats its sold to do and not just make the seller empty your wallet. So much stuff is sold with claims that are never able to be matched with use.
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