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#1
New member
Saying hello everyone, new yorker here
Not new to porsches, had a 98 boxster for a while, loved it and miss the car. I was going to get another one but the more and more I see them, I feel I have to get myself a 911. I love the 80's 911s and they're starting to become very affordable. I would prefer an older model because of the more direct driver connection than the newer cars with all the electronics. I would prefer an NA model to turbo. I don't need the car for a DD, but I'd like it to be something that I can drive all the time. I've read some posts on here regarding the earlier 80's models having the 915 transmission which some say isn't as good as the g50. Well I'd like to hear some opinions from the guys here. I recently saw a 1984 911 with about 100k miles for about 15k, not sure if thats a good price or not. Either way I'm looking to jump into the dark side. Not in a huge rush so I can take my time looking. Thanks for the help
Not new to porsches, had a 98 boxster for a while, loved it and miss the car. I was going to get another one but the more and more I see them, I feel I have to get myself a 911. I love the 80's 911s and they're starting to become very affordable. I would prefer an older model because of the more direct driver connection than the newer cars with all the electronics. I would prefer an NA model to turbo. I don't need the car for a DD, but I'd like it to be something that I can drive all the time. I've read some posts on here regarding the earlier 80's models having the 915 transmission which some say isn't as good as the g50. Well I'd like to hear some opinions from the guys here. I recently saw a 1984 911 with about 100k miles for about 15k, not sure if thats a good price or not. Either way I'm looking to jump into the dark side. Not in a huge rush so I can take my time looking. Thanks for the help
#3
MJMspeed most everyone will tell you the 87-89 Carrera's are the way to go. G50 transmission, the engine is bullet proof, and some say the last of the true 911.
They do cost more then the older Carrera's and SC's.
The 84 price does not seem too far out of line, but that is based on it being a clean example with no big issues.
Some helpful info would be what is your budget, and what do you plan to do with the car (weekend driver, drivers education, auto cross etc.)
They do cost more then the older Carrera's and SC's.
The 84 price does not seem too far out of line, but that is based on it being a clean example with no big issues.
Some helpful info would be what is your budget, and what do you plan to do with the car (weekend driver, drivers education, auto cross etc.)
#4
I would like to keep it under 20k as far as budget. I would like to do a few things to the car for a little more performance; lighter flywheel, some ITBs and a nice exhaust should be a good fit. The car will mostly be a recreational weekender but I would like to have some track time with it in the future.
Would you guys mind giving a small comparison with the older SC's compared to the 87-89's? I've read the 915 transmission is not the easiest to deal with, but what about it makes it that way? And if the 87-89 engines are bullet proof, is that in comparison to the SC? are the SC engines not reliable? I don't want to buy a headache. I want to have a car that I can turn on and drive and know its going to be a lot of fun.
Thanks for the input.
Would you guys mind giving a small comparison with the older SC's compared to the 87-89's? I've read the 915 transmission is not the easiest to deal with, but what about it makes it that way? And if the 87-89 engines are bullet proof, is that in comparison to the SC? are the SC engines not reliable? I don't want to buy a headache. I want to have a car that I can turn on and drive and know its going to be a lot of fun.
Thanks for the input.
#5
Sir, welcome, but let's get real. These MY 911's are not "turn on and drive". If you're looking for G50, you'll need to start with an '87. You may find one for just under $20K no problem, but the question then becomes how much will it cost to bring it up to condition. It's more advisable to pay more (market rate though) for the car knowing the full service history and what you may likely encounter in terms of maintenance/repair in the short term.
Budget $500 - $1000 per year on preventive and supportive maintenance. One year you may spend $200, the next you may spend $1,500, so the $500-$1000 is an average range.
Respectfully, this car may not be for you. Things will go wrong with the car more frequently than with much newer models. I don't consider those headaches, but rather part of the "vintage" Porsche ownership experience.
And sometimes you can do all of your diligence but still get stuck with a car that on paper looks great -- as well as in person -- but the driver history of the car was that of abuse (e.g. cold high-rev driving, car in a climate with large swings in temperature and humidity, lots of track time, etc.).
One wise thing that you said is that you'll be very patient. Patience and diligence on buying these cars is your friend.
Best of success and enjoy the search (that's more than 1/2 the fun I think).
Budget $500 - $1000 per year on preventive and supportive maintenance. One year you may spend $200, the next you may spend $1,500, so the $500-$1000 is an average range.
Respectfully, this car may not be for you. Things will go wrong with the car more frequently than with much newer models. I don't consider those headaches, but rather part of the "vintage" Porsche ownership experience.
And sometimes you can do all of your diligence but still get stuck with a car that on paper looks great -- as well as in person -- but the driver history of the car was that of abuse (e.g. cold high-rev driving, car in a climate with large swings in temperature and humidity, lots of track time, etc.).
One wise thing that you said is that you'll be very patient. Patience and diligence on buying these cars is your friend.
Best of success and enjoy the search (that's more than 1/2 the fun I think).
#6
What's the big 'to-do' about the 915 transmission as opposed to the G50? I know the Gd0 is very strong, but I'd like to know some of the differences between the cars, pro/con sort of thing. Thanks
#7
The 915 transmission takes some practice driving. The shifting is not a precise as the G50. The 915 transmission uses a cable actuated clutch while the G50 units are hydraulic.
In regards to the SC's you need to watch for pulled head studs. The case and cylinder heads were made of two different metals that expanded and contacted as different rates. This would snap the factory dilivar head studs and require a top end rebuild using a new stronger stud like Raceware or ARP.
You also have to check the timing chain tensioners. Prior to 84 they were not directly oil fed, and had a tendency to fail. The new tensioners were oil fed and all but eliminated this problem.
So in looking for an SC you want to make sure that the head studs have been upgraded and the newer style chain tensioners have been installed.
I also agree with taylorcoleman on average yearly maintenance costs.
In regards to the SC's you need to watch for pulled head studs. The case and cylinder heads were made of two different metals that expanded and contacted as different rates. This would snap the factory dilivar head studs and require a top end rebuild using a new stronger stud like Raceware or ARP.
You also have to check the timing chain tensioners. Prior to 84 they were not directly oil fed, and had a tendency to fail. The new tensioners were oil fed and all but eliminated this problem.
So in looking for an SC you want to make sure that the head studs have been upgraded and the newer style chain tensioners have been installed.
I also agree with taylorcoleman on average yearly maintenance costs.
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#8
Thanks very much for the advice. I'm fine with the maintenance costs, thats less than I thought it would have been.
Now are the SC cars lighter? If I were looking for a weekender/track car would it be better to start with that as a base and swap in the G50 transmission at some point in the future?
Now are the SC cars lighter? If I were looking for a weekender/track car would it be better to start with that as a base and swap in the G50 transmission at some point in the future?
#10
Have you been to any of your local PCA events? Great place to get opinions along with even being lucky enough to drive (or drive in) one of the models you're considering. They'd presumaby have a lot of knowledge to help you with pre-purchase things to watch out for. Just a heads up to another resource if you've not done that route already.
#11
Have you been to any of your local PCA events? Great place to get opinions along with even being lucky enough to drive (or drive in) one of the models you're considering. They'd presumaby have a lot of knowledge to help you with pre-purchase things to watch out for. Just a heads up to another resource if you've not done that route already.
Go to a local PCA event, find guys who have cars you are considering, and ask all your specific questions. They will be more than happy to tell you about their cars. Attend a concours or social event, and even try to get to a track event if possible. You will find a wealth of knowledge.
dhc3
#14
are you a pca metro member, if so we get tons of emails about different events and cars for sale, that are pca certified.
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