Changing the oil in a DB9/DBS is a bit of a fuss given the location of the drain plug and oil filter. But I think its a good way for you to see the service needs of your car. Exposure to old engine oil is known to cause cancer. So if you can afford it, pay someone else to do the dirty work. Support your local dealer when possible. But if you can't afford to, this is how to do an oil change without the Aston tax.

Oil $49.97 12QT of Mobil 1 0w40 Full Synthetic European Formula
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-FS-European-Car-Formula-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-0W-40-12QT/893400295
Oil Filter $16.95 Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/CM-6731-FL820
Drain Plug $3.99 DORMAN 090153 (Updated style Ford XW4Z6730BA)
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-autograde-3358/gaskets-25077/engine-25078/oil-pan-25086/oil-drain-plug-12144/f8b88e789879/dorman-autograde-drain-plug/090153cd/5868633
Throttle Body O-Ring $1.49 NAT151
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/national-o-rings-4439/hardware---fasteners-16585/o-rings-25101/o-ring---sae-17539/e26a2f3e5fac/national-nitrile-rubber-o-ring/151/4535478

Total = $72.40 + misc paper towels, gloves and local taxes

Notes;
- You can do this for about $60 if you buy the materials in bulk.
- Engine oil. Mobil1 0w40 isn't as good as it used to be when the DB9 first came out. It lost is LongLife certification many years ago. It acts more like a 0w30 than a 0w40. Its an OK oil if you're going to do oil changes every 3k-5k miles. I would strongly advice against using it if you plan to go anywhere near the 10k mile interval in your owner's manual. AMSOIL is what I would use if I wanted to do such long oil change intervals.
- Oil filter. The Ford filter listed above is far superior to the AM filter in almost every aspect (sealing gasket, base pressure relief valve, media etc..). The AM filter is very similar in design to almost every other modern oil filter, if you want something similar WIX 51372xp is a great alternative. My reason for not recommending an AM style filter is because the pressure relief valve is at the dome end. Which means if the filter is clogged, oil from the sump needs to pass through the "dirty" side of the filter, essentially pushing dirt straight into the engine. The Ford racing filter keeps the relief valve at the base, avoiding this problem altogether.
- Throttle body O-ring. This is a standard (3inch ID) O-ring. It is a Dash 151 size in SAE speak.
- Drain plug. The AM style drain plug with a large molded gasket isn't a very good design and it seems rather odd to even use it given that the sump has a chamfer to accept an O-ring. Ford has superseded this part with a better drain plug. If you prefer the AM style plug, then I recommend you change it at every oil change interval. If you get the updated Ford part then it should last a decade before you need to worry about changing it.


LEFT: Old style Ford drain plug. RIGHT Updated Ford drain plug

 

Thanks for the specifications. It can be intimidating to switch from factory parts but you have obviously done your homework and this list will help me maintain a regular service schedule without taking out a second mortgage.

 

Which AMSOIL? 0W-40?

 

Yes, technically the 0w40 european Full SAPS is correct
https://www.amsoil.com/p/sae-0w-40-f...motor-oil-efo/

Here is a doc to read if you are curious about the European FS version and SAPS.
http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/Pr.../SAPS_help.pdf
https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/aut...-saps-content/

 

I have been an Amsoil Preferred Customer for many years and use their products in everything that has a piston in my garage. When I purchased my 2005 DB9 last year, I contacted tech support at Amsoil and asked them what they would recommend for my car. It was interesting. Here is what they said in response "Unfortunately we do not have any information on this vehicle to recommend an oil for it. They don't list a viscosity for some reason in our lube specifications system, however the specs show our 5W40 European Car Formula Classic ESP (product code EFM) would meet it. I just don't know what viscosity they prefer."
I agree that the full SAP version would be right for us but I was torn between the 0-40 and 5-40 viscosity. So I used my 5-40 supply and have been very happy with the results. However, being a lovely synthetic it does wriggle its way past all my engine gaskets and lubricates the underside of my underpanels! One day I will fix that timing cover leak......

 

0w40 or 5w40 doesn't matter in warm climates - they are both 40 weight oils. 0w is a better option for folks in colder climates.

 

The local dealer wants $1,600 for a oil change
I'll go down the DIY road for this price...
Thank you for listing all parts needed!

 

"I dont want to buy your dealership, I just want to get the oil changed"

 

****....If exposure to used oil is cancerous then I am screwed.......I can't even believe I'm alive right now to type this!

 

I was confused on which Mobile1 motor oil to use in the Rapide so I ended up contact Mobile and sent them the page from the owner's manual with the oil spec's on it. They found it amusing that there was one spec listed on the page that had to do with diesels. They did point me the correct version of Mobile1.

In the end, it was the same version the dealer uses and I could've just asked them which oil they use.

I still have half a case of oil from my Vantage that gets used in the lawn mower as needed.

 

Was that the Mobil 1 FS European Car Formula 0W-40?

 

Yes it was a European Car formula of that range. Was able to buy a regular auto parts store. You'll need some on hand. They do consume some oil between oil changes.

 

Thanks!
Got a 12-quart bag-in-box version from Wally, curious to see how (un)convenient it is to fill the oil...

 

Easy to fill oil, but use a funnel. The opening for the oil is at a slight angle so it's easy to miss free pouring into the car. At least you are not checking the oil on the dry sump V8. I never felt like I got an accurate reading checking the oil.

 

I'll keep an eye on the dipstick then.