Turbo S centerlock PCCB vs turbo 5 bolt wheel
Turbo S centerlock PCCB vs turbo 5 bolt wheel
Hello everybody.
I looked at both of this cars (in the showroom) today and noticed the centerlock wheels sit differently (as in closer to the fender line) within the wheel well (as if they have a different offset). Is it due to PCCB, wheel model offset or spacers?
Thank you
I looked at both of this cars (in the showroom) today and noticed the centerlock wheels sit differently (as in closer to the fender line) within the wheel well (as if they have a different offset). Is it due to PCCB, wheel model offset or spacers?

Thank you
http://www.porsche.com/international/models/911/911-turbo/chassis/wheels-and-tpm/
Both wheels are forged. As I recall, the C/L was a no cost option for either of the forged wheels.
Yes 5 lug Turbo wheel is a no cost option on the 991 Turbo S (centerlock wheel is standard). Centerlock is a pricey option on the 991 Turbo.
In the 2014 MY, I liked the center lock wheel design better than the 5 lug. If I could have gotten the CL design in a 5 lug mounting configuration, I would have, but chose the design over mounting preference.
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CL Wheels
Hello everybody.
I looked at both of this cars (in the showroom) today and noticed the centerlock wheels sit differently (as in closer to the fender line) within the wheel well (as if they have a different offset). Is it due to PCCB, wheel model offset or spacers?
Thank you
I looked at both of this cars (in the showroom) today and noticed the centerlock wheels sit differently (as in closer to the fender line) within the wheel well (as if they have a different offset). Is it due to PCCB, wheel model offset or spacers?

Thank you
No spacers on the TTS with CL wheels. Not sure about the offset. Have not noticed a difference between five lug and CL spacing relative to fenders. Can say that the CL's are not the pain that many seem to think that they are. Tools to mount/dismount CL's are around $450 (Precision Instruments torque wrench $325, breaker bar ~$100 and Castrol aluminum paste from Porsche parts dept. Some use brake depressor.) and the manual has clear instructions on the process. There are also some very good DIY videos on forums/YouTube. There seems to be a cult of five lug proponents, perhaps as a result of some faulty CL's on earlier models, but so far no problems reported for the 991 system. If CL's are so problematic, why does Porsche use them on the GT3, 991 TTS, 991 GTS and 918? I trust Porsche engineers.
No actually the 991 Turbo wheels (the 5 lugs) are forged -- not cast.
http://www.porsche.com/international...heels-and-tpm/
http://www.porsche.com/international...heels-and-tpm/
It is nice to know I did not give up quality for convenience with the 5-lug wheel.
Cheers
I have the CL's: to me, its a bit of hassle carrying all the tools around. But as mentioned, it not a big deal, once you know the steps, well outlined on YouTube. My bigger concern is a flat and the Porsche sealer does not work. I do carry an air pump with me too. I was going to carry tire plug repair kits, but my tire guy advised me against it. But may do it as well, as going on a long trip soon. Rather not get towed to local Porsche shop that is closed on a Saturday / Sunday.
Last edited by mto; Mar 26, 2015 at 04:19 PM.
For those of you that have never changed a center lock wheel, you'll change your opinion once you do.
I change all 4 wheels (5 bolt) in < hour, do a quick brake inspection/clean calipers, etc. I change winter, summers, & sometimes wheels for the track.
Do this myself & have saved time & $$$ not going to dealership.
Couple things worth mentioning.
If you plan on driving your car at the track a lot, I'd check in with your local dealership how much it costs to service/re-build the centerlocks. These things do require regular maintenance like everything else on the car.
Secondly, if you plan on doing wheel changes yourself, you'll need a friend to help you out. Watching techs do it on a video - it's not as easy as it looks!
If you always take your car in for practically everything then go for CL
If you want to put in spacers, DIY wheel changes, etc, then go 5 bolt.
I change all 4 wheels (5 bolt) in < hour, do a quick brake inspection/clean calipers, etc. I change winter, summers, & sometimes wheels for the track.
Do this myself & have saved time & $$$ not going to dealership.
Couple things worth mentioning.
If you plan on driving your car at the track a lot, I'd check in with your local dealership how much it costs to service/re-build the centerlocks. These things do require regular maintenance like everything else on the car.
Secondly, if you plan on doing wheel changes yourself, you'll need a friend to help you out. Watching techs do it on a video - it's not as easy as it looks!
If you always take your car in for practically everything then go for CL
If you want to put in spacers, DIY wheel changes, etc, then go 5 bolt.
Suggest that owners read the manual supplement entitled "Driving on the Race Circuit." Every 4500 miles of race circuit driving the central bolts, hubs and rear axle wheel bearings must be changed. AT 9000 track miles wheel carriers on the rear axle, central bolts on the front and hubs and bearings on the front axle must be changed. For me 4500 miles will be quite a few years of track driving.
Not specifically relating to wheels: While some may think that the paragraph on chassis issues might be put there by the lawyers, it is interesting to note that Turbo factory basic settings are suitable for driving on public roads and race circuits. The factory settings are a "balanced compromise between high maximum lateral acceleration and excellent controllability, including on the race circuit." For those of us who want to use our TTS's for touring and DD, the factory setup works fine.
As to G-Force's comments, to each his own. It is not difficult for me to remove and tighten CL bolts to spec, but I respect others for whom is is a difficult procedure. For me one bolt is easier than five. The process conveys a deeper appreciation for Porsche engineering to me. Also, I found that I do not need to use the wheel mount/dismount alignment tool, but to be safe it only takes a moment to use it.
I have wheel and tire insurance and plan to have the dealer do my seasonal wheel changes on my TTS and Pan GTS, which of course has five lug wheels. I have done that for years with other cars that have five lug wheels. I will take my torque wrench and breaker bar on long trips should I need to remove a wheel.
Not specifically relating to wheels: While some may think that the paragraph on chassis issues might be put there by the lawyers, it is interesting to note that Turbo factory basic settings are suitable for driving on public roads and race circuits. The factory settings are a "balanced compromise between high maximum lateral acceleration and excellent controllability, including on the race circuit." For those of us who want to use our TTS's for touring and DD, the factory setup works fine.
As to G-Force's comments, to each his own. It is not difficult for me to remove and tighten CL bolts to spec, but I respect others for whom is is a difficult procedure. For me one bolt is easier than five. The process conveys a deeper appreciation for Porsche engineering to me. Also, I found that I do not need to use the wheel mount/dismount alignment tool, but to be safe it only takes a moment to use it.
I have wheel and tire insurance and plan to have the dealer do my seasonal wheel changes on my TTS and Pan GTS, which of course has five lug wheels. I have done that for years with other cars that have five lug wheels. I will take my torque wrench and breaker bar on long trips should I need to remove a wheel.
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