I can't wait to get my race file I think I may do the Actuators now too

 

Jimmer good luck and stay away from those high boost pressures...

MK

 

You shouldn't run more than 1.1 w/ spikes to 1.2 on pump gas. My car is tuned to run on C-112 and I max out at 1.4 with MAYBE a spike to 1.5 (I was running 1.4 yesterday when I ran my 6.69 in the 60-130). 1.7, even w/ the best race gas and tune is asking for BOOM!

 

Man I don't think that little flash in between shifts means anything? My GT2 usually makes 1.0 bar with a peak 1.1 at the top of 3rd and 4th gears, but when I am running it hard sometimes I will see 1.4 or 1.5 for like a tenth of second or less in between shifts, most of the time it is only 1.2 or 1.3 in between shifts. It is probably like someone said here because the boost backs up for a blink when the throttle blade is closed? I mean how much can it stress the turbo when some guys run that kind of boost for seconds at a time not a tenth of a second or less? 99 percent of the time this is not even a thought because you are not under full throttle making speed shifts so the condition doesn't even present itself IMO.

 

This is a good thread, as the most i've seen is 1.5 bar i was curious if this is too high . . . my 02 TT x50 normally spikes at 1.1 to 1.2 bar with occasional spikes of 1.4 to 1.5 when it's below 45 degrees F . . . seems like i'm dialed in right as i have to see really cold temps outside to get up to 1.5 . . .

 

What's the correlation between intake DV valves and exhaust wastegates? Example: intake DV are very stiff ,wastegate (NORMAL) -rapid overboost? DV,s soft, wastegate stiff--never fully open? I'm having prob's with overboosting with my evo 1.0 bar wastegate even adjusting them with air gauge opening up at .8 bar. Hope I didn't change the topic. This is after MANY adjustments.

 

My friend, I spent 6 months trying to make it right... and it was no go. The problem is that when the temps drop things change drastically... and so does your boost.
A simple solution is to put in a $30 manual boost controller near the factory valve on the right side of the Y pipe. That way it will bleed off any extra boost... like 1.5 bar spikes... it worked for me in the past.
markski

 

Thanx for the response, one thing you did mention that I did not consider was I am now doing these adjustments and it is near 32 degrees f but clear , only time I can take the car for test here in germany. Thanx for a solution, I will try this manual boost controller. If this works, I'll send you winning lottery numbers!!

 

jimmer,
When you have the intercoolers out and the rear bumper off you are looking right at the turbos. What better time to leverage your labor and install new turbos. MANY good choices out there. I went with UMW stage 2 zc and am very happy. I know many are seeing good things with the 24 18g setup as well. There is alot of power on the table with a turbo swap and tune. Most of the time fooling with a turbo install is screwing around with the bumper and intercoolers. Exhaust is a little bit of a pain but again with bumper off it is the time to do it if you are considering it. Good luck!

 

Too late my friend, those suckers went on in November! Found the problem though in the process. I had broken Rule #1 in tuning turbo cars and plumbed my boost gauge pressure line into the wastegate actuator line. The narrow T fitting was responsible for the crazy spikes. Rerouted everything correctly and now I see a steady 17psi with the occasional cold spike to 20psi. PERFECT (although I miss the power). Trap speeds are the same now at 17psi as they were before at 23psi+, attributed to some intake mods and the EVOM intercoolers.

 

Where can I find the metioned $30 manual boost ? In that case do you leave the gates open to the max and just control the boost with this device? Will the boost control be with a gauge or should it be done by trial to reach the desired boost?

 

Any one have an image where that boost control is installed please?

 

I second that I would love to see where the boost controller is...

 

Thats a standard unit... it gets tapped into the system... not easy to explain via comments... ( original pic provided by Kevin)