IMO and I have extensive knowledge with regard clutches in the high HP cars as I have had the clutch in and out of my car 5 times at least, I would stick with a Sach's setup if you want a more factory feel to it. Anything else sounds like a bucket of bolts in a tin can...sounds like **** another words.

Tilton was a tripple organic disc setup and was supposed to be good for 1000HP....NOT

 

Here is the sachs setup you should get. I sold this to a forum guy running 700. drives like stock! Proto also recommends this clutch kit.
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/s...5-p-45743.html

 

Organic, makes perfect sense why it did not work. Triple carbon will hold over 1200lb/tq, works better as it gets hotter, and loves to be slipped (very important in an AWD car). The organic is not cut out for most jobs at hand, it also should have cost about half the price you quoted paying.

 

Dan,

That is the same pressure plate I bought through Protomotive, At the time, I was doing the 600 HP level and Todd recommended it. He said it was good for 600HP and marginal at 700. I switched to the 700 package in the middle of the project and thought it would probably still work. It did for 9 months/15,000 miles, but now it's starting to slip. Todd said the Clutchmasters heat treatment will cure the slipping at 700HP, so that is what I am going to do.

 

Call the guys at AASCO....did their lightweight flywheel and had them build a clutch and pressure plate for my application. I am running a roots style TCP Racing blower with close to 400lbs of torque. THe clutch they built is phenomenal.

 

I had Kevin's kit (UMW) which worked great when I had the Proto 600 kit. I then installed the Proto 700 kit and it did not hold at all on the dyno. I then went with what John has stated above (modded PP) and CERAMIC disc. Holds great and there is NO slip at all.

IMO organic is not up to par at 700+ hp levels.

 

Woodster speaketh the truth....God, did I just say that

 

that works fine on any 650 type of kit but _not_ on the 700s. Been there and tried that two years ago. It last for a little bit but is only rated for 650 if you look at the sachs specs.

 

And my experience confirms exactly what Sharkster is saying - the 700 needs more clamping force...it does not last long.

 

Well I don't know what kind of HP my car is making?, but I know that after the last time I went to the track my clutch is acting up! It drives fine 90% of the time but if the car hasn't been driven long and isn't really warmed up good, I will roll on in 4th or 5th and when the boost comes on hard at about 4k I will get some slippage? If I am in the lower gears 1-3 no problem or above 4500 rpms or the car is warmed up good no problem at all in any gear and feels 100 percent! I glazed my clutch on the last run of the day, Bad and I loaded it up in the trailer and came home and this was my first drive since. Is there a possibility it will clean itself up? The car is a GT2 with 3800 miles mostly stock but makes good HP and ran 10.8 at 130mph at the track 3 weeks ago when I created this problem. So with the information I provided would someone care to give me his opinion or advice on a clutch? Do I need a new one?
thanks in advance!

 

The EVOMS / Sachs Stage 3 clutch has been a bone of contention for me, the only glaring negative in my GT700 driving experience.

The car is fairly tricky to drive in rush hour and up hills...engagement is abrupt and often there's a good amount of shuddering. I've let friends take the car for a rip and they come back shaking their heads, saying "the car hauls but I stalled like three times...something is wrong with your clutch, the whole car shakes as you move off."

Am I alone here? Is there an alternative? Or is this the compromise of having 700+ horsepower (which ultimately is totally worth it!)??

VB...

 

You are not alone in your issues and characteristics of this type of clutch. I have some of the very same issues and, at times, intentionally avoid certain traffic patterns based on the fact that my clutch seems to have a light switch style on/off behavior. I have learned to manipulate the clutch and can now get the clutch engaged between 1100 & 1300 rpms with little to no difficulty. You may serve yourself well to remove the hydraulic helper spring above the clutch pedal. At first, you will hate the new heavy clutch pedal but you are immediately met with a precise clutch and it becomes very easy to feel during the modulation process. This mod is not for everyone but it is well worth the effort when using a race clutch on the street.

 

that is my exact same experience for the past 27k miles (same clutch w/ LWFW.) i can actually drive the car now but i i will avoid really bad hills. backing up causes quite a racket w/ the shuddering. in fact, that is what the car is doing now at peak torque - shuddering like crazy after it slips a few hundred RPM.

as for engagement, i talked to Sharky yesterday and we'll do 2 things: 1) go sprung instead of unsprung and 2) remove the power assist. i'm adamant in keeping the LWFW.

i think (2) will make the car much more driveable since you won't have to guess where it engages. with the seemingly abrupt, and short, engagement period, having real feel should make the car easier (but not easy) to drive. i drove Sharky's car in his garage and, while it will require a strong leg, there was no guessing involved - you could feel exactly where it started to engage.

breaking the clutch in is a ***** though - when i first got it, i stalled it about 25% of the time during the first 250 miles... no fun.

- chuck

 

VB

I had the exact same setup as yours and I hated the clutch. All that shuddering and high release BS. I spoke with Mike at EVO and they no longer sell that setup anymore due to these very issues. Call Mike and see what they can do. I love my new clutch.

Jag

 

vanboost, If you go with the oem dual mass flywheel and oem GT2 disc you will have wonderful drivability. At 700HP you will require the Sach Motorsport PP with the heat treatment described above in this thread. This is a very smooth driving combination. To make it even better, delete the power assist. I would go so far as to say with the power assist delete, it feels and responds "perfectly" to input and inspires exceptional confidence in launching from a standstill.


Chuck, that is exactly correct. I love mine. First drive, it feels very stiff (especially compared to the soft stock feel). But, after driving the car for just one full day, it begins to feel "not so hard". After a couple of weeks, you begin to only notice it once in a while or when in stop and go traffic. After a season, you forget what the OEM felt like and the non-assist just feels right...except in heavy stop and go traffic. It is hard to hold to the floor continually, as you ease along in traffic. When in this scenario, I find myself putting the car in neutral between advances and that works. If you had to drive in heavy stop and go traffic every day, then the non-power assist is probably not the best choice. If you are able to actually drive the car the majority of the time, then it is a great way to go. I do some city each day which involves lunch, bank, etc. and it is not a problem in the least. If I had 90 minutes of stop and go, to and from work, I probably would not like it as much. Once acclimated to the non-assist - when driving and going through the gears, the extra effort is barely noticeable.