Alternator DIY Remove and Replace
I always open both the engine compartment lid and the front hood after washing to dry any drips inside. I can tell you that a lot of water does leak down into the engine compartment. What I do is have a large towel ready and open the engine hood and immediately put in a towel to start soaking up the water. Most of the water will drip down on either side onto the engine and also will fill the cups on the lip of the spouts for the oil filter and the hydraulic fluid reservoir filler. I see some pooling on top of the stock air filter box, but not into the opening on the right side....which tells me that the folks who run the open aftermarket intakes are prone to getting some water on the filters and in the filter box. Some of the water comes in as a result of just opening the engine compartment lid....so to some degree, just the act of opening the lid can be attributed to being the cause. YOu will also see quite a bit of water collect on the inside of the front passenger side of the hood to the left of the battery. There's sort of a dip there that serves to pool the water. I always take a towel and soak up that water too. I do drive my car in the rain so I'm pretty well up on what gets wet.
I replaced my alternator this weekend. Just want to add a couple of things to smistry007's already outstanding DIY:
-Don't bother removing the oil filter bracket. You can easily remove the alternator by sliding it to the left without having to touch the bracket.
-Ensure you use some threadlock on the two alternator bolts when reinstalling. During removal, I found that my left bolt had worked itself pretty loose from engine vibration.
-Don't bother removing the oil filter bracket. You can easily remove the alternator by sliding it to the left without having to touch the bracket.
-Ensure you use some threadlock on the two alternator bolts when reinstalling. During removal, I found that my left bolt had worked itself pretty loose from engine vibration.
thanks guy!...........I'M ACTUALLY USING THIS DIY IN THE SHOP RIGHT NOW YAKING OUT MY ALT.
HAS ANYONE JUST REPLACED THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR ON THERE ALT?
MY CAR HAS ONLY 24 K MILES AND I SUSPECT THAT THE REGULATOR TOOK THE HIT FROM A LOW BATTERY IN THE CAR.
HAS ANYONE JUST REPLACED THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR ON THERE ALT?
MY CAR HAS ONLY 24 K MILES AND I SUSPECT THAT THE REGULATOR TOOK THE HIT FROM A LOW BATTERY IN THE CAR.
This alternator job is BS!!! I had the thing ready to come out in about 1 hour and 15minutes and the alternator wouldn't move after it was unbolted!
I went hammering away at the damn thing trying to get it out. I ended up using a big crescent wrench and the handle to my aluminum jack to wedge the thing out after a while of fighting it. I put the new one in and it wouldn't go in worth a crap. I ended up luckly threading one bolt and eventually got it close so I could hit it with some various wrenches to line up.
I went hammering away at the damn thing trying to get it out. I ended up using a big crescent wrench and the handle to my aluminum jack to wedge the thing out after a while of fighting it. I put the new one in and it wouldn't go in worth a crap. I ended up luckly threading one bolt and eventually got it close so I could hit it with some various wrenches to line up.
Great writeup! $350 for a reman is a steal. Aren't they something crazy like $1400 from the dealership???
Everytime I start my car after a heavy rain, I get a momentary loud belt squeal and low battery warning. After a few rpms the water gets squeeged out and all is good. It always happens when there are people around to look with "WTF" on their faces.
P-mechanic sez it's normal.
Soundeffects- sounds like you need to buy a BFH for your toolbox.
Everytime I start my car after a heavy rain, I get a momentary loud belt squeal and low battery warning. After a few rpms the water gets squeeged out and all is good. It always happens when there are people around to look with "WTF" on their faces.
P-mechanic sez it's normal. Soundeffects- sounds like you need to buy a BFH for your toolbox.
So I started it up this morning and got a constant 14volts compared to 13-14 before eventually leading down to 11volts. So happy that it works ok now, this job is a little ruff using caveman tools so find some big *** breaker bars to help you.
Note: I bought a OEM Bosch unit from a wrecked 2001 TT 6spd (6,000 miles) for $175 locally with a 100 day warranty or I was going to try a $135 unit from hitest but the india call center lady wouldn't overnight it to me so the junkyard got my money.
Note: I bought a OEM Bosch unit from a wrecked 2001 TT 6spd (6,000 miles) for $175 locally with a 100 day warranty or I was going to try a $135 unit from hitest but the india call center lady wouldn't overnight it to me so the junkyard got my money.
Thanks for the nice writeup and pics. Has anyone replaced theirs with a light-weight one? I understand one is available but don't know the source. Probably PMS with a large price tag.
On a PITA job like this (not complicate, but a pain) I would recommend the highest quality rebuilt you can find. Who cares what the warranty is, if you have to replace it even once in the next 2-3 years?!?
Great write up. Thx for the effort
A
Great write up. Thx for the effort
A
Well...
Can't tell you how much your DIY video helped the ret. handyman that I am.
Saved my marriage.
Forced me to sweep out the shop,
Finally installed the thermostat needed on the shop furnace.
and a host of other borderline meaningless details. Sorry, irrelevant.
Anything else I may need to know?
Should I have this one rebuilt, or head down to the dealership now that every thing's cleaned up so nice? (hey-I could bring the wife person and show off what obvious capability I have to the 'guys')
Ya think the the X50 package changed the amp draw?
last time I did this was to a 66 Mustang fastback GT circa 1991, that's how much you helped.
Thanks,
Jon
Can't tell you how much your DIY video helped the ret. handyman that I am.
Saved my marriage.
Forced me to sweep out the shop,
Finally installed the thermostat needed on the shop furnace.
and a host of other borderline meaningless details. Sorry, irrelevant.
Anything else I may need to know?
Should I have this one rebuilt, or head down to the dealership now that every thing's cleaned up so nice? (hey-I could bring the wife person and show off what obvious capability I have to the 'guys')
Ya think the the X50 package changed the amp draw?
last time I did this was to a 66 Mustang fastback GT circa 1991, that's how much you helped.
Thanks,
Jon
We already have a Tech/How To section but it relates to more than just 996 turbos. There are some DIY's in there but it would be nice to have a pure DIY section that wasn't cluttered with a bunch of questions. Get that bit between your teeth Jimmer23.
This alternator job is BS!!! I had the thing ready to come out in about 1 hour and 15minutes and the alternator wouldn't move after it was unbolted!
I went hammering away at the damn thing trying to get it out. I ended up using a big crescent wrench and the handle to my aluminum jack to wedge the thing out after a while of fighting it. I put the new one in and it wouldn't go in worth a crap. I ended up luckly threading one bolt and eventually got it close so I could hit it with some various wrenches to line up.
I went hammering away at the damn thing trying to get it out. I ended up using a big crescent wrench and the handle to my aluminum jack to wedge the thing out after a while of fighting it. I put the new one in and it wouldn't go in worth a crap. I ended up luckly threading one bolt and eventually got it close so I could hit it with some various wrenches to line up.







