996 Turbo Brake Information - DIY and Sorting truth from Fiction!
Larry, You can get a cheap Pyrometer to do this with. Mine has a probe and gives good readings. I ended up seeing the best results with the Pagid Yellows on all four corners, based on the temps I took and the data I compared with others (Craig and Rennstore was a big help). What I found, and this is a hard target to hit, because it moves as you improve, is that when I increased rotor size, the temps in the front fell off due to the larger swepped area of the pad, along with the improved rotor I moved to (The coleman slotted directional curved vein two piece rotor). The rears saw no major difference in temps from the 330MM to 350MM rotor change. I don't have my log book in front of me, but it was less than 50 degrees drop over a 30 minute session.
Interestingly enough, I noticed that as my driving improved, the brake temps across the board dropped as I was able to manage momentum better and some of that has to do with running with a better group of drivers who manage their mirrors and give better pointbys, quicker!
Mike
Interestingly enough, I noticed that as my driving improved, the brake temps across the board dropped as I was able to manage momentum better and some of that has to do with running with a better group of drivers who manage their mirrors and give better pointbys, quicker!
Mike
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I'd run a Pagid RS4-4 in the front and a RS29 in the rear.
The RS4-4 wont see any pad fade until over 900degrees and it's super friendly to the cross-drilled disc. The RS29 has a higher initial torque at ambient temperatures so the rears will be doing more work with the lower temperatures they will see.
Obviously pads are very subjective and everyone has different preferences. This is a very streetable setup with no need to be changing pads for the occasional track day. I have a few different customers using this combo on OEM Turbo brakes, and I recommend a similar setup for the Brembo GT kits.
If you have the ability, and the time, the best thing to be doing is monitoring temps when you are at the track. That's the best way to sort out friction issues and keep track of what's working and what's not.
The RS4-4 wont see any pad fade until over 900degrees and it's super friendly to the cross-drilled disc. The RS29 has a higher initial torque at ambient temperatures so the rears will be doing more work with the lower temperatures they will see.
Obviously pads are very subjective and everyone has different preferences. This is a very streetable setup with no need to be changing pads for the occasional track day. I have a few different customers using this combo on OEM Turbo brakes, and I recommend a similar setup for the Brembo GT kits.
If you have the ability, and the time, the best thing to be doing is monitoring temps when you are at the track. That's the best way to sort out friction issues and keep track of what's working and what's not.
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That's just insanely uh, *not accurate* advice - Oranges up front on a 996TT for track use.
You must like rotor deposits and huge pad wear?
Craig at www.Rennstore.com (referenced above) has some stories to tell about people who ran the Oranges hard for track use.
Use Yellows F&R for your 6 piston setup.
USE YELLOWS F&R at a minumum for 996TT track use.
Anything else is just asking for unneeded trouble.
You must like rotor deposits and huge pad wear?
Craig at www.Rennstore.com (referenced above) has some stories to tell about people who ran the Oranges hard for track use.
Use Yellows F&R for your 6 piston setup.
USE YELLOWS F&R at a minumum for 996TT track use.
Anything else is just asking for unneeded trouble.
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Hello all,
I am ready to upgrade my brakes. Last I visited, it sounded like for me- a good solution was to change my fronts to the 996GT3 system and keep the backs stock. And for track days use pagid yellows up front and blacks in the back. My use is 3-5 DE per season- otherwise street. Yes/no?
I am ready to upgrade my brakes. Last I visited, it sounded like for me- a good solution was to change my fronts to the 996GT3 system and keep the backs stock. And for track days use pagid yellows up front and blacks in the back. My use is 3-5 DE per season- otherwise street. Yes/no?
That's not a bad plan in my opinion... I'd upgrade to those rotors that Vivid is offering from Brembo, along with the GT3 calipers and pads...
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post2194123
Mike
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post2194123
Mike
Last edited by Mikelly; Dec 30, 2008 at 04:11 PM.
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Anyone know when brembo is coming out with the two piece rotors that will fit stock, yes stock, turbo front and rear calipers?
I am holding out for those. Slotted, and just what I need at my run level.
Jeff
I am holding out for those. Slotted, and just what I need at my run level.
Jeff
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That's probably what I need for my level too. Assuming that slotted brembos will outperform stock up front on the 996tt...
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I'm looking at upgrading to just front and rear 997 rotors and using the stock 996tt calipers with 997 bolts and brackets....Is this a good upgrade if I can get a good price on just the rotors?
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The amount of info in here makes my head spin!
I thought the stock red caliper brakes were fine...ended up buying a 996TT with Brembo GT-Race brakes (8piston, 15in) so I'll probably end up trading that + cash for stockers...car never sees the track so not sure what's the point...someone else can probably make good use of them.
I thought the stock red caliper brakes were fine...ended up buying a 996TT with Brembo GT-Race brakes (8piston, 15in) so I'll probably end up trading that + cash for stockers...car never sees the track so not sure what's the point...someone else can probably make good use of them.
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Anyone kind enough to do a summary? I just spent an hour reading the entire thread and found it hard to decide exactly what to do. Would be extremely helpful if someone posted:
Best set-up for street use with a couple of track/DEs a year. (seems to be 6 pot GT3 with pagid yellows on the front and stock brakes on the back with pagids black).
Which rotors though?
Best set-up for heavy track use but still a street car.
Best set-up for all out racer
Thanks
Best set-up for street use with a couple of track/DEs a year. (seems to be 6 pot GT3 with pagid yellows on the front and stock brakes on the back with pagids black).
Which rotors though?
Best set-up for heavy track use but still a street car.
Best set-up for all out racer
Thanks
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By the way, it would also be very helpful to add to the summary the following:
TIPS -
Replace cooling duct with gt3 version
You can use x pads for street/track without swapping them.
x pads are strictly for track
x pads are the best but will eat rotors, etc...
Thanks in advance to the brave soul that can summarize 250+ posts!
TIPS -
Replace cooling duct with gt3 version
You can use x pads for street/track without swapping them.
x pads are strictly for track
x pads are the best but will eat rotors, etc...
Thanks in advance to the brave soul that can summarize 250+ posts!
I'll try to get to this later on this evening...I'll edit the initial posts to include the "combos". That said, there are a bunch of opinions on what the best setup is... Each of us knowns what works for "us"...What I recommend, others may not recommend... That said, if you want to see what I thought worked well, search my posts in the thread... For me, Pagid Yellow pads are the only pad I'll run, based on wear alone. The caliper or rotor may change, but I'll always run Pagid Yellows on my 996TT!
Mike
Mike