That's a very generalized statement.

I've been on Mustangs that read high and some that read low. I have also been on Dyno Dynamics that read high and some that read low. It all comes down the what the operator sets the parameters of the machine at, not the dyno itself.

I did, however, dyno my stock Z06 on a Dynojet the other day and it made exactly what a stock Z06 is supposed to make (they should dyno between 440 and 445 rwhp...and my car made 443)..so I think this dyno is extremely accurate and I have a lot of faith in the operator (ex-NASCAR crew chief). They also have very large rollers so I know I won't spin.

Once I get ready to install my next mod, I'll do before and runs.

 

HAHAHA wow didnt know you are so mad at me! (Roll eyes)


Well meet at the drag strip. NO PROBLEM! its all good fun!

 

I'm not mad at all.

 

mustang dyno of stock Z06 corvette 2007
stock 07 z06 is 397whp on a mustang dyno thats 11-12 percent off from a dynojet

if the cars crank HP is 505 and laying down 397 then the drivetrain loss on a mustang is 27%. Def super low reading dyno, no? for a 27 percent difference?!?!!


Dynojet you cant really screw with at all and the numbers are drastically inflated. IMO

 

Speed is a drug and I have an addictive personality.

There must be a 12-Step program for this. Installed the V1 yesterday.

"A persistent reminder of my duty to obey the law"

Keep in mind Suman that while you're going to make crazy power that it will not be more than 70% usable approximately 95% of the time. What I mean is that there are "dyno numbers" and then there's the "number" that you run the car at on a regular basis. Around 650WHP and 650WTQ for every-day "running around" on *whatever gas you can find* is an incredible piece of work. Remember also what I said about weight. That's absolutely, positively the most consistent, proven, guaranteed and reliable way to go faster. The more power you crank out of a TINY 3.8 Liter motor the more regularly you will blow it up. You can have 1000hp and HONESTLY get SPANKED by some guy with a SIMPLE (comparatively) GT750 car with 700lbs removed. Consider additionally how much you're likely to enjoy the stereo with 90dbs of ENGINE sound inside the car with the open exhausts you'll be forced to run. Consider the blissful comfort of motoring around town (stock seats) either 200% on or off of the gas in order to take advantage of the huge compressors on your car. Why have 500lb stock Porsche seats? My point here is not to discourage you from more power but to simply suggest that some of the "creature" comforts MUST definitely go away (even if you don't remove them) because of what the car naturally becomes at a specific output level. The noise, rabid acceleration, etc... will make the other interior and sound deadening material irrelevant (at the margin) so while it's at the shop, you might as well have it all removed and begin the "weight loss clinic" for your beast. Then you will truly have the fastest car out there for any given level of engine output. You'd hate to get spanked by someone's 690 kit mated to a STRIPPER car, right? Seriously, have some of the math done and see how much you can impact the speed by removing weight. It's the key to greatness at this point. An elephant is powerful while it's standing there but then try to get it to run like a cheetah. The dyno #'s don't guarantee a street weapon.

 

I completely disagree. As Dive has stated several times now, it's up the specific machine/user, not a generalization across a dyno brand. There are over half dozen dynos local to me, including dynapack, dynojet, and a mustang dyno.

The local mustang dyno in fact reads a bit higher then all 3 of the dynojets I have tuned on. The 3 dynojets are all very close to each other, and are far from drastically inflated. In fact, the local dynojet numbers are the most accurate in terms of reasonable numbers that match up very well with trap speeds and weights. Now drive a few hours north, and you will find the worlds lowest reading mustang dyno. That does not mean all mustang dynos read low.

 

Very good points. But what good is a veyron with out the comforts inside. I can turn my evo into a gutted street racer if need be. My porsche is meant to be a dyno king. IT doesnt have stock seats(gt3 seats). I just want to be safe at 1000hp(cage and all). Your absolutely right about one fact and thats what i will run on the street daily. Besides the car only running on 104 unleaded, I do plan on it being run in the neighborhood of 700awhp daily which should be very streetable. But come the drag strip up the boost and take **** out of the car Spare etc. I still want to run Catalytic converters becuase I want to see how much power I can make while still being able to pass emissions liek a veyron for instance. THese are just minor goals. Weight reduction is a must at the strip. On the street I will love my stereo. Plus the 996tt with out cats sounds ridiculously loud and if you heard my exhaust its pure sex.


S

 

CT is not far from y'all come on up im Sure EPL will more then welcome you guys. We can plan something closer to when I get my car back. Hopefully sometime this summer LOL Hopefully.

S

 

LOL...that's simply a very low reading (and drastically innaccurate) Mustang. Z06 Corvettes (both C5 and C6) have 12% drivetrain loss. So if it reads in the 435-450 rwhp range, than the dyno is very accurate..regardless of what brand it is.

The funny thing is, in my area, the most-inflated dyno we have a Mustang. Everyone knows it's inflated...so no one takes any numbers that it gives seriously. My old S/C M3 made 30 more rwhp on that Dyno than it did a Dyno-Dynamics down the street. Just so you know...a low reading dyno is not a good thing.

All dynos have default measurement parameters that are in place from the factory. Typically, Dyno-Dynamics have the most conservative settings (not Mustang, sorry to say). But all good dynos can be adjusted/manipulated by the operator.

Regardless of all the above, what really matters to me on a dyno (since I prefer to gauge my power via acceleration tests like 1/4 mile MPH and 60-130 times, rather than dyno runs) is how consistent it is from one run to the next, whether it's measurement baseline is high, low or just right. The Dyna-Pak is the most consistent, which is why Todd uses it (he could have purchaed any dyno he wanted to). I believe it measures changes in power (from one mod to the next) more accurately than any dyno around. So for tuning purposes (which, IMO is what dynos should be used for), it's outstanding.

 

I agree that the dynapack is a great tuning machine but in my area the dynojet is a "soulbooster" per say. No biggy! If you guys come up to the area, Im sure we can hit the strip and the dyno up together. I think theres a lebanon valley strip event that EPL is part of in June.


S

 

http://www.fastnuf.com/HP%20Est.html

Another great estimator of HP vs. weight and time. A 2900lb car traps 145mph w/ 690whp but a 3900lb car (with driver) requires 928whp to create the SAME trap speed.

 

Hope you have a dyno with you!!!!!! Tim

 

A beer and a handshake will probably work just as well.

 

If not would you prefer Pride rules, or UFC?

Sorry, just had to stir the pot

 

speaking of beer I am about to find me some here in San Diego LOL! Everyone needs to chill out!! I miss the car already because its in the low 60s during the day and 50s at night. She would be running like a raped ape!!


-Chris from iphone