If anyone on the board is as disgusted with the Rear Spoiler Dummy Light as I was, drop me an email or a reply and I'll email/post the very simple repair which eliminated the annoyane of the warning light. If your rear spoiler rams are wet with fluid, this is not the repair for you. Dealers typically detail2 possible causes for the problem:

1. Hydraulic Rams are leaking down and not maintaining requisite presuure to push the spoiler up.....Super Expensive, PIA process for repair.
2. Micro Switch failure. Cheap, easy, DIY'er type repair.

I've got the part numbers and procedure if you have dry Rams.

1 hour later, problem solved. No more dummy lights. Cheers.

Rich

 

PM sent.

 

I think from what you are saying i have the same issue. Aka there is no visible issue with my spoiler. it works at the right times, etc. but sometimes it throws an error, other times not. doesnt seem to be temperature dependent...if your fix gives love on that issue, then hook me up :-) cause it annoys the crap out of me too.

 

Here are the three items you'll need to purchase from the dealer or part house of your choice:

99651291800 - Hydraulic Cylinder Bracket $35
99661316700 - Microswitch $30
99661317100 - Microswitch $30

Passenger side Spoiler Ram houses both Microswitches and Bracket.

1. Remove Rear Decklid Auxilary Fan( (qty. 3) #10 Metric bolts)
2. Remove Air Intake Scoop from Rear Decklid ( (qty. 2) #10 Metric bolts)
3. Remove ( (qty. 4) Torx T-10 screws) from existing bracket. Bracket w/ microswitches attached should be easily removable at this point.
4. Microswitches come with 3 feet of lead wires for fitting/soldering.
5. Insert new switches in new bracket prior to wiring. They only go one way so do not force them. There are tabs on the sides of the swiches for easy guidance.
6. Re-attach new bracket and switches into position leaving enough wire to tie and solder.
7. Trim wires to 1"-2" in length and solder one at a time. all wires are uniquely colored therefore easy to do. You should be able to push the existing wire insulation back far enough to subsequently tape and recover the new connections.
8. Replace fan and scoop. enjoy the ride without the warning light.

Cheers.

Rich

 

Awesome, I'll do it next week when its down to get the wheels powdercoated.
Thank you kindly sir.

 

And I was just thinking of making an appointment with the dealer today. The dummy light came on again yesterday as I was hopping on the freeway. I think I can first give this a try. Thanks!

 

Is there anyone that tried this and worked?

Thanks

 

Yea, the guy who started the thread, which is why he started it.

 

LOL....

 

LOL!!! No seriously, anyone else?

 

PM sent no reply...

 

Someone try

 

I did. Well, sort of: let me explain.

I had a leaking driver-side ram for a few months, but the spoiler was still operating fine: it’d go up at 75mph and down at 37mph with no lights in the cluster, etc. – but I knew it was just a matter of time until the pentosin in the unit would discharge just enough to prevent it from extending fully and trigger the “spoiler malfunction” light.

And so one day it did. No problem: I was expecting it and I had already bought a replacement ram that was waiting on my garage shelf. I brought the car and the replacement part to a trusted Porsche independent shop and asked them to swap the leaking ram, refill the pentosin in the whole system and bleed it according to the manual.

They did exactly as I had asked: the defective ram was replaced and the system recharged as per the shop manual. The only problem was that, even after following the instructions verbatim from the manual, the “spoiler malfunction” light still came on in the cluster even though the spoiler was seemingly operating as it should. I had the shop re-do the entire operation (on their dime, no less), but the problem persisted.

Now that I knew that the rams were fully functional, that the pentosin was at level and fully bled, there was only one thing that could be at fault: one (or both) of the microswitches. So my hunt began. I pulled both microswitches from the passenger-side ram and inspected them: while the lower switch was operating properly (that is, clicking each time I’d gently push the switch in with my finger) the upper one wouldn’t. I grabbed the best electrical cleaner I know of (WD-40) and sprayed it generously in the spring-loaded mechanism of the malfunctioning microswitch. After a few pushes it started clicking again.

I put both microswitches back in place, went for a ride, but the “malfunctioning spoiler” light still came on. It had to be something else. I pulled the switches out again and suddenly realized that they had to be reinserted in their place with far less force than I originally had used. In other words, while I had really jammed them in their respective slots so that they wouldn’t move, they had instead to be gently pushed without applying much force at all. To keep them from settling out of their intended position I proceeded to tape each of them using a tiny strip of duct tape (I know that it doesn’t sound very technical, but...).

Soooo, I went for another drive and guess? No “spoiler malfunction” light, and the spoiler is operating as it should – and it has been so for the past two weeks and counting. So, it could be said that I fixed it using WD-40 and duct tape! J

While I am not suggesting that microswitches can’t fail (in which case they can be replaced using the fairly easy procedure described by the OP), in my case the apparent failure was caused by the inability of the upper switch to click when pushed in and out – in essence it was a mechanical issue, not an electrical one. So, in my case, properly lubing the physical travel of the switch solved the problem.

I hope this will be of assistance to some of you.

 

Great write-up asgor. My pass. side ram in wet and only occasionally do I get the malfunction light. Maybe 1 new ram and "lube" the micoswitches.

 

Asgro I had a similar problem but the reverse, my upper microswitch was slightly working its way loose.( work fine for a while then it would throw a light) So I used a small black zapstrap(aka ziptie) to hold it tight in its mount and no more check light.