no need to remove pump. extra large with added length screw driver helps to get leverage to "seat" the regulator to get the clip back in place.

 

I CAN'T GET THE FPR BACK IN...Its so tight!

Does it pop in and stay in so you can grab the clip and slide it in or do you have to leverage it in with one hand and then pop the clip in with the other?

 

When I changed mine, I too had a tough time getting the new FPR seated. Despite my best efforts, I could not get it to seat by trying to "push" it into place. Nor do I think that you can get the retaining clip started and then get it seated by forcing the clip in.

What worked for me was gently "leveraging" it into place. I did it with a piece of 1"x2" wood about 18" long. To the right side of where the FPR goes (as you're looking in the engine compartment) is a relatively flat piece of the car's body that I was able to use a a leverage point with the 1"x2". I used a couple of other small blocks of wood to use with the 1"x2" in order to get some leverage by placing the end of the lever against the back (top) of the FPR and as I recall, using the car's body as a fulcrum point. After I figured out how to do this, the FPR "popped" in with a noticeable "snap." I was able to then reinstall the retaining clip with just my hand.

Make sure that what ever you use as a lever does not damage (dent) the top of the FPR. 1"x2" worked well for me but I'm sure you can find something else that would work just as well.

R-

Bill

 

Thanks Bill. I was thinking about using something to leverage it in but I didn't think it was possible for it to SNAP in... I pushed on it for an hour by hand it kept slipping out. I can bench 285 half a dozen times and this thing was laughing at me every time I dropped the FPR down by the turbo, lol.

Other option might be to get one of the metal clamps that you can turn by hand to push it in. I need a 1-2 clamp though and not sure if a store sells though. I'm on it tonight.

 

That's what she said

 

Well I made a little tool and got the clip in after 10 minutes of torturing myself.

In case your wondering...Its a clamp, 2 zip ties and a piece of wood I chopped.

 

On question, mostly out of practical reasons (car transport/trailer etc):

- After swapping to the 5bar fpr - will the ECU be able to adjust to the FPR by itself when it detects rich condition, or does the car need an entirely new remap before it can be driven?

I'm just thinking about logistics, doing this in the garage, then driving the car to the dyno - or do I have to put in on trailer... or swap it (on the parking lot kind of) at the dyno facility?

Thx for input.

 

It's def doable in the parking lot. The car will run fine. I tried driving my car on the stock fpr tune and it was fine. I reflashed to an updated tune the same day.

 

Cool, thx for the input!

 

it's amazing what a super long screw driver can be used for.

 

After some parts swaps, such as MAF, O2 sensors, maybe some others, the ECU needs a little time to adjust the fuel trim to match up with the new sensors, especially if the previous parts were out of spec. You can accelerate the process by disconnecting the negative battery cable for about 20 minutes to clear the old data, then reconnecting and driving the car moderately for 20-30 minutes to allow the ECU to learn the new sensors before hitting it hard.

Jon

 

Impressions after swapping the FPR:

- The diy by OP is really good.
- I would only add: Release the fuel pressure at the pump "test" valve, and then even with that done place a small rag under the FPR and have the new FPR ready to pop in for minimum leakage. I just had a few drop come out so should be no biggie but if you want it ultra clean, don't just pull the FPR out.

- To pop in the new FPR: Just massage the O-rings of the new FRP with some engine oil and you can pop it in by hand.

- The pump does not have to be entirely removed, the hose can stay, but you have to remove the nuts outlined and move the pump to the right to get access.

I removed the battery on my car while doing the job, to reset the ECU learn values. After re-start with my same tune it started perfectly fine, maybe a tad rich the first second (visual/audio/smell impression) and then it settled, can as well have been the cold start.

Next step bigger turbos and dyno.

Thanks to OP for the writeup and excellent photos!

 

Sorry about reviving such an old thread but where's the test valve at the fuel pump to release the pressure.. is it that little gold nut in front of it? Fvd told me I should get a dealer to install it but i think it's pretty straight forward. Thanks

 

All done...if you are installing an EBC and need a vac/boost source, now is the time to "tee" off the FPR vac/boost line.




Install everything reverse of dissassembly. Hope that helps. It would have helped me if I had these picts before I did the install. [/QUOTE]

i dont prefer the ebc vac/boost source direct at the fpr ..... negative effects at the fpr are the result..

 

Thread revival! I have a quick question. I used a lever to get the FPR in place. It went in, but I didn't hear any sort of pop that confirmed it was in all the way. I was able to put the retainer clip on without any problems, pushing it on with my fingers. Since the retaining clip is on, does that automatically mean it's seated properly?