Thank you for the correction.

On that dyno day, we ran a stock 996t on the mustang dyno, and got 338. So i believe the true equation should be:

338/416 = 505/x

If my math is correct, 623... ?

One moment, as i try and locate a dyno sheet. I would rather post a dyno sheet, than throw out numbers

 

A case in point:

I have seen one tuner show a dyno with 500rwhp vs. 600 rwhp from another tuner on the same turbo...
Things that make you hhmmmm
markskki

 

The measurement systems are poor (contain a lot of measurement uncertainty), so wide fluctuation is to be expected. This is why many are more interested in 60-130 runs and the like. BTW I'm calling mine a 670 kit

 

The general rule of thumb for these cars is 18.5% loss for AWD, and 12.5% loss for RWD. So, if your car made 505 awhp..that puts crank HP at around 619 or so (505/.815).

That said, not all tuners are the same..so Brand X's XX700 cars may make less HP than Brand Z's ZZ700 cars....etc...

IMO, the best way to know how much power your car is really making is to use 60-130 times and trap speeds from 1/4 mile runs. Not dyno numbers.

 

I agree, but the whole point is surely if the vendor advertises a 700 kit it should be a 700 kit, give or take 15/20 brake, after all that's what you pay for, plus it doesn't confuse the **** out of the customer.

 

A fek it, it must be me!!!

 

I agree wholeheartedly.

 

The only problem with this is that the drivers ability is a factor into and not a factor on a dyno.

 

With 1/4 mile times, the trap speed isn't affected by driver ability too much...unless the driver is absolutely horrible. With 60-130 times, you can use the driver's shift times to compare with the shift times of other drivers.

No method is totally fool-proof...but IMO, dynos have way too many "unknown" variables to consider them as accurate as real-world acceleration data like trap speed and 60-130 times.

 

700 kit usually means 700hp to crank on race gas measure on dynojet. Also at reasonable ambient conditions and proper cooling fan. And the car should have all supplemental hardwares.

 

It is true that a good amount of skill is involved in 60-130 times. However, it is the sort of test that everyone can practice on a fairly regular basis (unlike 1/4 mile where you absolutely need a track). Even if you cannot find a stretch of "Mexican" highway lonely enough to allow you to hit 130, everyone can do a hard third gear pull and practice speed shifting into 4th which is the major skill set needed for a decent 60-130 time.

Thus the 60-130 is THE standard to measure acceleration. To illustrate, there is nearly a full 2 second difference between my 600 rwhp M3 and my 600 rwhp GT2.

 

Is this due to the fact that you can shift one better than the other?

 

I can shift the manual (Porsche) faster but the big difference is in torque and powerband. The M3 only makes 450 torque and the peak powerband is betwen 6.5 and 7.2 K RPM's.

The Porsche makes peak power from 3.9K to 6.5 k.

 

And then you gotta figure in the wildly varying money the "tuners" charge to get 7 second 60-130 times. I'd venture to bet there is a $20,000+ difference between the least and most expensive 7 second car. Although, and in all due fairness, the 30K car will have some snappy stickers and badges whereas the sub 10k car will simply look.....well......stock. Go figure.