Has anybody swapped out the TT brakes(stock) for the front and rear Stoptech kit before? For the $$ they sound good, but sometimes this can be deceiving...A lot cheaper than the Brembo GT set-up..Curious if anybody has tracked these and seen how they hold up..

 

Our brakes are a great upgrade over the stock TT units. The calipers are significantly stiffer (better pedal feel and reaction time); the rotors flow substantially more air (lower temps, faster cooling, superior longevity), and the floating aluminum hats shave a couple of pounds per corner (less unsprung weight). Most importantly, the 355mm rotor (14 in.) has quite a bit more heat capacity than the stock 330mm (13in.) units (the primary function of a BBK). This year's One Lap of America winner used our 355mm front kit (with stock rears) on his TT. He was thrilled with our kit. You can see the press release here:
http://www.stoptech.com/press_releas...pofamerica.htm

Don't let the reasonable price deter you. More and more people are finding out each day that you don't need to sell an internal organ to afford a top quality brake kit! We have only one line of big brake kits...our street kits are our race kits. The kits on the Speed World Challenge cars use the exact same components as our street kits. Our BBk's are literally racing brakes for the street, where they are completely civil...no rattling, noise, etc. They also come with dust boots. All you need to do is swap in some race pads and you are ready for the track. When the stock units turn into a smoldering pile of ash, ours tend to feel more like they did on the first stop.

If you want to learn enough about brakes to make your head spin, check out this link: http://www.stoptech.com/technical/

Let me know if you have any more questions.

 

BTW, StopTech Just became a sponsor...I'll get the banner up tomorrow :-)

 

We do sell them at Akkurat and are going to be putting a few kits on. They are very nicely priced that's for sure!!!

 

I have them installed on my TT. I will be at Putnam Oct 1,2,3 and will be filing full reports. The only thing I can say now is pedal feel is suprisingly firmer (they use a smaller piston up front).

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ight=stop+tech

 

Thanks for the feedback, looks like I'll be getting some soon after the last track day the fronts are toasted, cracked, etc...
BTW which fluid did the Lap of America car use?
I'm surprised the stock rears held up, my red calipers are now black.

 

Jonnie, sounds like you and I both brake hard. I cooked mine as well, the first session out, and that was with GT-3 cup front cooling ducts.

 

All depends on the track, at California Speedway there is heaving braking at the end of the banking(160mph-35mph) but you have the entire front straight to cool off..At Laguna Seca it's widely known as the hardest track in the USA on brakes, no places to cool them down at all and heavy braking downhill on the straight..
The front rotors have cracks at all the holes, the rear calipers are blackened and the brake fluid in the rear calipers actually boiled and came out of the bleed valve even though I double checked it twice. I was using ATE Blue which is OK for lighter cars but not the TT apparently when used very hard, I'll be trying the GS610 next time. Colorchange which pads are you using woth the Stoptechs? I was using Pagid Yellow front and Orange rear, the fronts(Yellow) actually got so hot hot when I took them out they crumbled into pieces..

 

I am using Pagid blacks (RS-14's) front and rear. Damn, you might be tougher on brakes than me. I use Castrol SRF, the best you can get if the cost isn't important.

 

Hi Guys,
Thanks for the intro Shank.

Johnnie, I'm not sure what fluid they were using. The highest end fluid we sell would be the Motul RBF600. As Colorchange said, the Castrol is great stuff, but it's extremely pricey. The Motul is only $15/500ml bottle. Three of those bottles would be enough for a full bleed.
As for the rear calipers turning black...that's not too surprising. There isn't a paint out there that won't start to change a bit if you put enough heat in them. We bake ours in an oven to test the finish, but there simply isn't a perfect paint solution at this time. Even anodized calipers change colors with enough heat.

Regarding cracked rotors...we always recommend slotted rotors to our customers that track their cars. The drilled tend to crack more easily, and they develop concentric grooves around the face of the rotors where the drill holes are. The drilled holes create a temperature gradient across the face of the rotors. The slotted still give you the benefit of some leading edges for the pad to catch, but they are a lot more resistent to cracking.

I don't think you can go wrong with the Pagid Blacks...we also sell Performance Friction pads for our calipers in 97 and 01 compounds...both very nice choices as well. All of these pads were/are used by top pro teams.

 

I haven't used the Blacks before, are they more of an enduro or sprint compound than the Pagid Orange compound??
The Orange's last in the rears but forget the fronts..
Colorchange have you ever had the brakes fade or fluid boil with the Castrol? I think it's about the same price as the GS610 at 40.00/pint, wonder which one is preferable..

 

SRF is $60-75 a bottle. I did cook the fluid when I came into the pits hot to try to get pyrometer temps by myself. When I hopped out of the car, my front brakes were smoking real bad (pagid blacks in the stocks too) so I quick got a caliper temp and was over 900F. Jumped back in the car to get back out and cool things off but I had already boiled the fluid. The dry boil is comparable to the others, the wet boil is way higher. If you change religiously, no need to buy the SRF IMO.

 

Pagid Black (RS 14) has a little bit higher MOT (max operating temp), and generally a little more aggressive than the orange (RS 4-4). Yellow (RS 19) is what Pagid touts as their pure endurance pad. My customers mainly stick to Black and Orange. Based on what you've said Johnnie, a good setup may be Black F/Orange R, or Black/Black...unless of course you plan on running the 24 hrs. of Daytona.

 

Acytally Jeff. wouldn't he want the higher bite compound in the rear as the factory over biases the fronts on their proportioning valve? Maybe blacks front, grays rear?

 

Colorchange...I should revise my statement...my head was in front engine world! The ideal with our StopTech kits on the rear engine cars would be to match the compound front and rear, with the temperature range seen being the primary determinent of pad selection. In other words, Black/Black or Orange/Orange depending on the temps being seen...which with our setups would be fairly close front and rear. You would NOT want to have a higher coefficient of friction pad in the rear than you do in the front though. Keep in mind that even with a rear-engine car, weight is still transferring significantly to the front during a stop.