I used a cheap OBD2 reader from Kragen, nut it won't give me any error codes. I tried to take the car out of the garage to verify if it is still driveable, but it stalls within seconds of being started and then the warning flashes. I am going to order a durametric tool from Pelican and see if I can get better feed back. The car has always had a certain "flufiness" at low rpm and throttle openings which I attributed to the tune. My evo used to do that. Now I wonder.

 

Try unplugging the MAF and see if that allows you to at least get it running. That will help you determine if it is a MAF. YOu need to know what codes it threw in the ABS/PSM error that came up. Once you get that, you should be able to figure out the errors

 

What should I expect the engine to do with the MAF plug disconected? Will the engine idle without stalling within a few seconds? Will the car be driveable for a few miles of freeway if needs be? Thanks.

 

It should idle, run and drive fine (without making any boost).

 

Thanks TTboost. I am reading the repair manual as we speak. Where is the MAF sensor located? Is it the plug that seems to be attached to the throttle body? On the evo the MAF is right underneath the air filter. Is it the same on the 996 T?

 

The MAF is on the "neck" of the airbox right before the plenum. (on the left side looking at the engine) The wiiring and connector is sort of "under" the left side intercooler hose.

 

Never mind I found the right page in the manua. The plug is besides the air filterhousing. Do I need to remove the filter housing to reach the plug? Thanks.

 

The plug is IN the air filter housing. Reach around the left intercooler hose, you'll feel it. Squeeze and pull.

 

Thanks TTboost. I have been going through the service records and the MAF was replaced at 34K. The car now has 44K. I reviewed the PPI paper work and there is a record of PSM/ABS failure at some time. I don't seem to have a record of repair for such a failure. The paper trail appears to be good. I'll disconnect the MAF tomorrow evening after work and see if the car runs right. The car has a K&N filter. I think I have seen some evidence on this forum that MAF failures are more prevalent with oiled cotton gaze air filters. Is that right? Thanks.

 

YES!!!. Put a factory paper filter in there and see what happens before you do anything.

 

I have a paper filter and the durametric tool on the way. I am also going to do a boost leak. This failure reminds me of the time I had the pipe to the intercooler disconnect itself on the evo getting on it while merging on 101. The car would idle but barely move on it's own power. Tbolt clamps eventually solved that issue. But I had to change the park plugs because the ecu was dumping so much fuel in the engine.

 

Yes. Boost leak tests should be done regularly on these cars as there are many places (many hidden) that can leak. There are some that run the K&N (and the BMC) just fine, but it's few and far between. It is a problem when the MAF gets covered in oil. Decreases it's ability to sense when it's coated and a K&N without oil is useless and filters very little. It's been proven that the paper filter flows well up to and over 700whp.

 

I disconnected the MAF tonight and sure enough as TTboost said, after a couple of "snorts" the car idled and I was able to drive it out of the garage and around the block. What is interesting is when I gave it a little throttle a loud whistling noise would follow from the left side behind the driver. This has me leaning towards a big boost leak maybe because of a disconnected intercooler pipe. My cheapo obd2 scanner still isn't saying much. Would a major boost leak register as any thing on the scanner? Thanks.

 

If you jack the car up a few inches, you can actually see most of the piping connections at the turbos and the intercoolers. These are the usual culprits. Check all clamps and connections. Do NOT build any boost without your MAF. You should STILL do a boost leak test. These cars are very sensitive to any leaks and will usually let you know. GL

 

I'll jack the car up tomorrow after work and take a look. Thanks for the warnings on not boosting with the MAF disconnected. On the topic of leak checks. I am a little fuzzy on boost test. I am looking for a leak between the compressor side of the turbos through the intercoolers to the intake manifold. Right? On the evo I build a fitting which showed that the throttle plate bushings were leaking. But I am trying to find leaks further down the system right? Thanks for the pointers.