tyson:

e=mv[squared]!! cheaper to remove the m than increase the v, e=ma cheaper to remove the m than increase the acceleration, why not do both? he has a very good idea.

if i build a ruf Turbo R it could be lightweight -- think its better to keep the airbags for open road racing, or do they become irrelvant at 150 mph ++ crash forces???

 

yup yup^____^...it's cheaper to save weight than to add HP...
and doing both at the same time... can get me a 600-650HP car that "might" outperform a 700HP+ car...

 

Don't forget about your battery. The Optima battery will save you approx. 20 pounds.

In addition, if you are looking for power for the dollar look at Nitrous. The NOS 5130 kit and accessories will give you up to 75 hp. The parts are about $2,200. and the labor is about $2,000. If you have a Stage IV at 640 and NOS kit at 75, you will now have approx. 615. Not only is this more than the Stage V but I will venture the average hp and torque from 4400 rpm's and up will walk away from the Stage V.

In addition, your car is much better off handling wise in the approximately 520 rwhp range. With your suspension you will gain nothing with 600 rwhp on a handling course. I have found the difference on my car in the 500 rwhp to the 600 rwhp mode handling wise is very little. You have to consider, my car has a $60,000+ wheels/suspension. What is all this power going to gain you on a stock or near stock wheels/suspension.?

The only place all that extra hp (either Stage V or your Stage IV and Nitrous) will show a noticable gain will be in straight line acceleration in 3rd through 6th gears. You would actually be better off with a gear change than spending the money to go from Stage IV to Stage V. The gear change would cost about $7,000. and have the same effect as adding about 50 to 60 hp acceleration wise. Speaking of gears and 600 rwhp. With 600 rwhp the stock first gear is worthless and second is near worthless. Also, pay attention to the clutch and your axles, especially the axle splines. I hate to bring it up, but depending on your torque, it starting to become time to look at your rods. When you start considering 600+ rwhp, the motor is only a small part of the equation, cost wise.

 

Chad:
so do you suggest in performance wise, it's better off to go for around 500-540 rwhp? (since within this range, the price is still not that high too)
and spend the rest of the money to light weight the car, and get a gear change...???? and the extra $$ on a nice nice suspension like JRZ triple?

I'm not really the type for a NOS system...^___^...

 

agreed, but expect the cabin noise to raise

 

luting_chen,

By all means. The suspension is so important. The fun factor of your car will go way up. I find it really strange to see people throw all their money into power and forget the handling. The handling improvements should be progressive as you add power. I would definitely stop at or before 500 rwhp and pay attention to more than sway bars and some coil overs. You can extract so much more fun from a balanced turbo.

I have several power modes on my car. Using the same professional driver, the times were less than one second between the 516 rwhp mode and the 614 rwhp mode on a course. The difference being their was very little slide in mode one and a lot of slide in mode two. In mode two the throttle was used judiciously or feathered. If not the car would lose traction and that is lost time.

As for suspension look at:

1) GT2 suspension parts. (Far more adjustment available)
2) Triple adjustable coil system.
3) Adjustable sway bars
4) Strut bars.
5) Improved braking.
6) Mono *****.
7) Michelin Pilot Sport Cups.
8) Wider wheels and lighter wheels.
9) Roll bar/cage that will stiffen chassis.
10) Stiffer engine/tranny mounts.
11) PROPER WHEEL, TIRE AND SUSPENSION SET UP.

Regarding N2O, most people are stigmatized due to old N2O systems which were not properly thought out. The new ones are far different. Remember, Nitrous does not make power, fuel does. Weather you use a turbo, supercharger, nitrous or CO2, what you are doing is the same. You are stuffing more oxygen into the cylinder. When you do this you must also stuff more fuel in there. The above systems allow for more fuel because of the added oxygen. Yes, I prefer using the turbo, however it hs it's limits in streetable cars. That is why I prefer a combination of the above.

 

^____^
chad thanx...i guess i now know what HP range i'll be looking for...
probably 600+- on crank...

and spend the rest on suspension and other stuff such as light weighting the car...

i guess now is the time for me to save money for a triple adjustable suspension...hahahahaha

I might end up getting Quantum like Tyson is planning to...hehehe
Heard a lot of good things about it, and most race cars in Japan uses Quantum too...