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Transmission Removal with engine inplace

  #1  
Old 02-16-2009, 04:07 AM
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Transmission Removal with engine inplace

Hello guys...I am about to change my clutch,so I need some help...In the past I ve changed the clutch in my previous 996C2 and it was not difficult...However i do not know how to remove the central axle in order to remove the transmission...any ideas?Or any shop manual indicating the way?
 
  #2  
Old 02-16-2009, 08:26 AM
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Anybody?
 
  #3  
Old 02-16-2009, 11:51 AM
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Easy pleasy. I did a post on this over on rennlist 6 months ago. You will need to pull the upper passenger side stud from the block to remove the transaxle with the engine in the car.

The center axle is just 3 15mm bolts, remove them, use a flat pry bar to push the driveshaft foward, once it clears the transaxle, you can lower it and pull it backwards out of the car (front is splined, so it slides right off)
 
  #4  
Old 02-16-2009, 12:00 PM
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A quick run down from my rennlist post

To do it with the engine in:
You must have a tranny jack, and a way to support the engine.

Off the top of my head: (i refer to everything as bolt head size, not actual bolt size)
Remove rear sway bar. 4 bolts on mounting bracket, 2 on drop links
Remove aluminum cross member. 2 15mm bolts
Remove two angled beams attached to the main crossmember: 1 15mm bolt, 1 16mm bolt, 1 15mm nut hidden on top.
Drop main crossmember. 16mm and 18mm wrench required. Pull out the bottom 2 bolts, and just loosen the top 2. Pull crossmember out.
Remove 2 shifter cables at the tranny (passenger side)
Remove electrical connector at front passenger side of tranny
Disconnect battery
Pull starter
With a stud puller, remove the long tranny mount stud that the start mounts to. You will not get the tranny out without pulling this stud out.
Remove 2 13mm bolts holding on the slave (for a 996TT, remove the 2 15mm bolts and 1 13mm bolt for the slave). Hang aside.
Remove 6 CV bolts at the transaxle end on each side.
Following the coolant lines around the transaxle, remove the various clips, etc so the lines can be moved later. You do not need to disconnect any lines.
Remove the 10mm bolt holding the coolant line bracket (above the drivers side transaxle end CV joint).
Remove the 3 10mm bolts from the plastic cover on the drivers side of the tranny, above the CV axle. You will need to pull the clutch fork pin out. 1 10mm bolt. Remove the bolt, and bracket from the transaxle. (this is done by feel, with your fingers in the side of the tranny. Going back together, if you drop any of the above, you get to pull the tranny to fish them out.
There is a black cap that covers the access to the clutch fork pin. A flat pair of needle nose pliers can just barely grip the end and you can pull it out. Again, all done by feel.
Thread in a long 6mm bolt into the clutch fork pin, and wiggle the clutch fork pin out.
Support the tranny.
Drop your front mounting plate. 4 short 15mm bolts (in body), and 2 long ones in the side of the tranny.
For the 996TT, remove the 3 15mm bolts holding the driveshaft to the transaxle. Push the driveshaft forward, then pull down and remove from vehicle. (not applicable on GT2)
With the tranny supported, now you can pull the 2 16mm nuts holding the front of the tranny to the body. Slowly lower the transaxle so it is at an angle.
One the angle is close to clearing the driveshaft tunnel (you will obviously have to pull the tranny towards the front of the car to remove), support the engine safely.
Remove the remaining 3 15mm nuts holding the tranny to the engine. with everything supported, rock the tranny towards the front of the car. With the proper angle, it will slide off.
Now you are staring at the clutch.
Replace clutch. Self explanatory. Use loctite on the flywheel bolts, and torque to 66ft/lbs. 17ft/lbs on the pressure plate bolts, no loctite.

That was the easy part.

Now the real fun begins.

With the new clutch in place, place your shift fork in the arm of the release bearing. With a piece of tape, tape it so that it sits straight up. (place the tape over the arm, the up over the top of the clutch and flywheel. Keep it on as light as possible, as you will have to pull it out once the tranny starts to mate up, and the clutch fork is seated in the tranny.
Push the tranny into place. Again, if you don't have the exact angle of the engine to tranny, it will not go on. It HAS to be perfect. Once the tranny is almost all the way on, with one finger in the tranny, guide the clutch fork into it's mount. Remove the tape. You will probably attempt this multiple times, as the fork will fall down, etc.
Once everything is lined up, slide the tranny into place, and install your 3 15mm nuts to hold everything together. Slide the clutch fork pin into the tranny and arm.
Install the black cap
Install the small bracket onto the cap.
Install the 10mm bolt to hold everything together
(again, if you drop anything on these steps, they will end up in the bellhousing, and you will be pulling everything apart and starting over. This can be very frustrating, because you can't see anything while you are doing this, it is all done by feel.
Once that is together, then installation is opposite of removal.
 

Last edited by IAPorscheDoc; 02-16-2009 at 01:20 PM.
  #5  
Old 02-16-2009, 01:08 PM
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THE TAPE, THE FORK, THE TAPE, THE FRIGGIN TAPE!!!!!!

He is right, I just had a flashback of a nightmare
 
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Old 02-16-2009, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by $manager View Post
THE TAPE, THE FORK, THE TAPE, THE FRIGGIN TAPE!!!!!!

He is right, I just had a flashback of a nightmare
Lol, yea it is a good time the first time you do it After a few dozen, it's cake

The other option if you have 2 people and clearance, is to get the transaxle close, drop the fork into place, and then take a really long screwdriver, put it through the slave cylinder hole in the bellhousing, and pinch the fork against the clutch assembly using the screwdriver to hold it in place while the other guy slides the transaxle on.
 
  #7  
Old 02-16-2009, 01:17 PM
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Awesome write up...thank you...
 
  #8  
Old 02-16-2009, 01:40 PM
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I am having my rear main seal replaced and clutch done at Porsche. The dealer told me they go by book to drop both the engine and transmission. Sounds crazy to me...they should just drop the transmisison like the instructions above with a way to secure engine.
 
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Old 02-16-2009, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by vbmw335 View Post
I am having my rear main seal replaced and clutch done at Porsche. The dealer told me they go by book to drop both the engine and transmission. Sounds crazy to me...they should just drop the transmisison like the instructions above with a way to secure engine.
I am sure they are not dropping the engine, but you are still getting charged for it, because Porsche says you can't remove the transaxle with the engine in the car. It is still a sizable job though, dropping the entire engine isn't much slower, but is definitely a heck of a lot messier! Coolant goes EVERYWHERE.
 
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Old 02-16-2009, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by IAPorscheDoc View Post
I am sure they are not dropping the engine, but you are still getting charged for it, because Porsche says you can't remove the transaxle with the engine in the car. It is still a sizable job though, dropping the entire engine isn't much slower, but is definitely a heck of a lot messier! Coolant goes EVERYWHERE.
Thank god i have Easycare. I am doing the clutch while its out ...saves me labor.
 
  #11  
Old 02-16-2009, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by IAPorscheDoc View Post
I am sure they are not dropping the engine, but you are still getting charged for it, because Porsche says you can't remove the transaxle with the engine in the car. It is still a sizable job though, dropping the entire engine isn't much slower, but is definitely a heck of a lot messier! Coolant goes EVERYWHERE.
I don't think it is much slower (if any), to someone very experienced in pulling engines. Same would go with the coolant mess. Some strategically placed catch cans, and some hose pinch off pliers virtually eliminates the mess for the most part, as well as the tremendous strain on the rear engine mounts without proper suport. They're not made to suport the engine weight with nothing else helping.
 

Last edited by porschespeeddemon; 02-16-2009 at 06:45 PM.
  #12  
Old 02-16-2009, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by porschespeeddemon View Post
I don't think it is much slower (if any), to someone very experienced in pulling engines. Same would go with the coolant mess. Some strategically placed catch cans, and some hose pinch off pliers virtually eliminates the mess for the most part, as well as the tremendous strain on the rear engine mounts without proper suport. They're not made to suport the engine weight with nothing else helping.
Lol, I was trying to be nice to those that choose to do the engine out method. I can do a clutch job in under 3 hours in a 996TT without dropping the motor (2:45 is my record in fact, book time is 17 hours). I would like to see anyone do it that fast by dropping the motor and doing it on the table, lol. Also, no on in their right mind would let the motor hang from the rear 2 motor mounts without supporting the other end of the motor. I can drop a motor fast, but I can't drop the motor, do the clutch, and reinstall the motor in under 3 hours.
 
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Old 02-16-2009, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by IAPorscheDoc View Post
Lol, I was trying to be nice to those that choose to do the engine out method. I can do a clutch job in under 3 hours in a 996TT without dropping the motor (2:45 is my record in fact, book time is 17 hours). I would like to see anyone do it that fast by dropping the motor and doing it on the table, lol. Also, no on in their right mind would let the motor hang from the rear 2 motor mounts without supporting the other end of the motor. I can drop a motor fast, but I can't drop the motor, do the clutch, and reinstall the motor in under 3 hours.
Haha, gotcha. No worries. That is certainly no small feat. It seems that it can be tempting just to get that "little" bit of extra drop by leaving it on the mounts, and that was by no means directed towards you, just anyone lowering down the other end, in general. There certainly are things on these cars that there is an "art" to.
 
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Old 02-17-2009, 04:40 AM
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Originally Posted by IAPorscheDoc View Post
Lol, I was trying to be nice to those that choose to do the engine out method. I can do a clutch job in under 3 hours in a 996TT without dropping the motor (2:45 is my record in fact, book time is 17 hours). I would like to see anyone do it that fast by dropping the motor and doing it on the table, lol. Also, no on in their right mind would let the motor hang from the rear 2 motor mounts without supporting the other end of the motor. I can drop a motor fast, but I can't drop the motor, do the clutch, and reinstall the motor in under 3 hours.
What a pity you are not close to Greece,so to change clutch and flywheel to you...I will start it later today and hope to have it ready for the weekend...However i will change intercoolers as well...
 
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Old 11-08-2010, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by IAPorscheDoc View Post
A quick run down from my rennlist post

To do it with the engine in:
You must have a tranny jack, and a way to support the engine.

Off the top of my head: (i refer to everything as bolt head size, not actual bolt size)
Remove rear sway bar. 4 bolts on mounting bracket, 2 on drop links
Remove aluminum cross member. 2 15mm bolts
Remove two angled beams attached to the main crossmember: 1 15mm bolt, 1 16mm bolt, 1 15mm nut hidden on top.
Drop main crossmember. 16mm and 18mm wrench required. Pull out the bottom 2 bolts, and just loosen the top 2. Pull crossmember out.
Remove 2 shifter cables at the tranny (passenger side)
Remove electrical connector at front passenger side of tranny
Disconnect battery
Pull starter
With a stud puller, remove the long tranny mount stud that the start mounts to. You will not get the tranny out without pulling this stud out.
Remove 2 13mm bolts holding on the slave (for a 996TT, remove the 2 15mm bolts and 1 13mm bolt for the slave). Hang aside.
Remove 6 CV bolts at the transaxle end on each side.
Following the coolant lines around the transaxle, remove the various clips, etc so the lines can be moved later. You do not need to disconnect any lines.
Remove the 10mm bolt holding the coolant line bracket (above the drivers side transaxle end CV joint).
Remove the 3 10mm bolts from the plastic cover on the drivers side of the tranny, above the CV axle. You will need to pull the clutch fork pin out. 1 10mm bolt. Remove the bolt, and bracket from the transaxle. (this is done by feel, with your fingers in the side of the tranny. Going back together, if you drop any of the above, you get to pull the tranny to fish them out.
There is a black cap that covers the access to the clutch fork pin. A flat pair of needle nose pliers can just barely grip the end and you can pull it out. Again, all done by feel.
Thread in a long 6mm bolt into the clutch fork pin, and wiggle the clutch fork pin out.
Support the tranny.
Drop your front mounting plate. 4 short 15mm bolts (in body), and 2 long ones in the side of the tranny.
For the 996TT, remove the 3 15mm bolts holding the driveshaft to the transaxle. Push the driveshaft forward, then pull down and remove from vehicle. (not applicable on GT2)
With the tranny supported, now you can pull the 2 16mm nuts holding the front of the tranny to the body. Slowly lower the transaxle so it is at an angle.
One the angle is close to clearing the driveshaft tunnel (you will obviously have to pull the tranny towards the front of the car to remove), support the engine safely.
Remove the remaining 3 15mm nuts holding the tranny to the engine. with everything supported, rock the tranny towards the front of the car. With the proper angle, it will slide off.
Now you are staring at the clutch.
Replace clutch. Self explanatory. Use loctite on the flywheel bolts, and torque to 66ft/lbs. 17ft/lbs on the pressure plate bolts, no loctite.

That was the easy part.

Now the real fun begins.

With the new clutch in place, place your shift fork in the arm of the release bearing. With a piece of tape, tape it so that it sits straight up. (place the tape over the arm, the up over the top of the clutch and flywheel. Keep it on as light as possible, as you will have to pull it out once the tranny starts to mate up, and the clutch fork is seated in the tranny.
Push the tranny into place. Again, if you don't have the exact angle of the engine to tranny, it will not go on. It HAS to be perfect. Once the tranny is almost all the way on, with one finger in the tranny, guide the clutch fork into it's mount. Remove the tape. You will probably attempt this multiple times, as the fork will fall down, etc.
Once everything is lined up, slide the tranny into place, and install your 3 15mm nuts to hold everything together. Slide the clutch fork pin into the tranny and arm.
Install the black cap
Install the small bracket onto the cap.
Install the 10mm bolt to hold everything together
(again, if you drop anything on these steps, they will end up in the bellhousing, and you will be pulling everything apart and starting over. This can be very frustrating, because you can't see anything while you are doing this, it is all done by feel.
Once that is together, then installation is opposite of removal.
Is this the same for a 2007 gt3rs
 

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