Dez, You're right.. Ohlins has a name for themselves, and anyone who has ever been into suspension design will know that name... JRZ is up there as well... however, most all Porsche fans know the Moton to be the hot setup, due to the popularity of Motons in GT3 club setups.

As to the X73, I am personally not a fan... If you're going to go as far as to spend the money to upgrade, do it right, and do it once, if you can. I personally think the X73 kit is much to expensive when "added" to an order buildsheet...

I edited my post to include sway bars... Don't know how I forgot them, but I did... We need a suspension DIY thread sticky...
Mike

 

Öhlins is the best, but JRZ,Moton,intrax is also nice

 

Mike, for the money, I agree, the clubsport is the best system out there. Other then levels of adjustment it's as good as any motorsport 2-way suspension on the market.


But once you go past clubsports, Ohlins takes over as best value with as good or better performance depending on the application.

 

The X-73 costs $2400 from suncoast, with that kind of money what else is out there? everything else seems to be a lot more expensive..

 

JIC's will run you about 3200 on the high end, and they come with front and rear camber adjustments where you'd have to spend 1k on camber plates and rear monoballs for the X-73, just like you have to do with Pss9's. JIC are the best bang for buck easily.

 

Plus the X73 setup is NON-adjustable. So keep that in mind. You really can't compare it to any of the coil-overs on the market...

And you're looking at a fair amount of cash outlay for the parts I listed above...

GT3 control arms alone will run you about $600 per pair.
GOOD toe links are going to cost around $550 plus lockplates which are another $90!
Thrust bushing kits run between $400-550.
The better quality dogbones run about $600.

I wouldn't spend a DIME on coilovers without planning to do that whole list I previously posted, though. Especially if you plan to run 10 days or more per year... You consistancy in driver improvement will accelerate your learning so much faster. There is NOTHING like having a rock solid and precise suspension and brake package (don't consider one without the other) to build your confidence at the track!

Mike

 

Copied from vivid's website:
"One thing the JIC CROSS Coilovers offer that the some of the competition does not is front adjustable camber plates and rear pillowball mounts. These are the plates on the top of the shock that replace your factory rubber mounts. The front strut tops are made out high grade aircraft aluminum and include a race bearing for longevity. The front camber plates install just like your stock strut tops would, however these can give you up to 3 degrees of negative camber and provide a more rigid and improved handling. The rear pillowballs are similar but without the camber adjustment. "

So for $3.5k I get the 4 coilovers + the camber plates for all 4 corners? that sounds like a decent deal.. so how harsh is this setup compared to stock?

 

You should be able to get a better deal than $3500 easily, shoot for 2800-3200. Dan at Vivid would be a good place to start. There are used one's floating around as well. Mine are already being sold for abotu $1500 with only 4k miles on them.

If you run the JIC on full soft, they wont be much harder than stock, for the street that is ok and they are easy to adjust. The turning response is lightning quick though once you get them. It'll feel quicker responding than a 997 GT3. Not as precise throughout the turning range, but easily more repsponsive.

 

Thanks a lot for the advice!

 

I've got JIC's on the yellow car, but I've been driving the camo car a bit lately with the KW Clubsports, and must admit they're are some of the nicest coilovers I've driven on, still need to get it dialed in and get some sways and our ERP dogbonest installed, but I'd highly recomend the KWs.

 

I think if I were building a street/ track car right now, I'd look at the KW's first if I couldn't swing the $5K + installation and setup of the Motons/JRZs.

Mike

 

I agree, I've had both sets of springs rates in my JIC's, and if you get in my car and then get in the camo car (which as a race car you'd expect to have a worse ride), it's opposites of the world appart, both do offer great handling I just find the KW's much more friendly for doube duty as a track/street car.

For a full track car to me Motons are the way to go.

 

Thats some useful information/opinion there! I had been trying to find out why NOT to go for KW's out of the typical 3 choices (JIC's, PSS9/10's and KW) because from what I could gleen from the forums etc was the KW's were the best true dual duty for the $$.

 

I've got KW's on my 996TT, but I really haven't driven it enough to give an educated opinion. I'm waiting for the weather to break so I can put some miles on them and see what I think. I've been working with Tym Switzer, and the plan was to drive it for a while, then tell him what I like and dislike and he was going to adjust the setup accordingly.

I think as other people have stated, have a good shop to work with you to achieve the results you're looking for.

 

Mods, can you make this a sticky? Mike, Tom, Stevie, and other suspension gurus, let's try to organize this further to make up a FAQ with the ultimate setups for street and strip, with various levels - say Stages I, II, III, IV. There's some great information here!