Ultimate Suspension Setup for 996TT
Ultimate Suspension Setup for 996TT
I know guys such as Martin and Tyson have done fairly extensive overhauls on the stock 996 suspensions at one point or another. What is the consensus on which components to replace. Any feedback is appreciated.
Thanks.
Ben.
Thanks.
Ben.
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Change the super heavy weight Turbo for a cup car & save some money from the start.
Better yet,buy your Miata back for track duty & keep the Turbo nice for the street.
Better yet,buy your Miata back for track duty & keep the Turbo nice for the street.
Last edited by PAULIEWALNUTS; Feb 25, 2009 at 02:48 PM.
Turbo is waaaaay to soft Paulie especially with the new motor setup. At the very least i need coilovers but i'm looking at something a little more effective if I can do it for the right number.
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This is what i have
Chassie
Öhlins Clubsport coilovers, 2 way
RS lower control arms
ERP upper dogbones
ERP toe srms rear with bumpssteerfix
ERP solida control arms busshing front and rear
Excenter delete kit both on toe and camber in subframe
SMR solid caster busshings front and rear
Solid topmounts rear
ERP toe arms front with bumpsteerfix
On wish list
2004 gt3 rs uprights front and rear
Chassie
Öhlins Clubsport coilovers, 2 way
RS lower control arms
ERP upper dogbones
ERP toe srms rear with bumpssteerfix
ERP solida control arms busshing front and rear
Excenter delete kit both on toe and camber in subframe
SMR solid caster busshings front and rear
Solid topmounts rear
ERP toe arms front with bumpsteerfix
On wish list
2004 gt3 rs uprights front and rear
Last edited by SMR; Feb 25, 2009 at 03:05 PM.
See this post here:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...uspension.html
I helped Ken with the development of this Moton kit. I also helped put Moton on the map with this forum and in the Porsche street car community. I can source all of these parts for you including all of the ERP and GT3 parts.
I have tons of experience and can help tailor a kit to your needs and driving style.
Email me for more info.
Mike@awe-tuning.com
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...uspension.html
I helped Ken with the development of this Moton kit. I also helped put Moton on the map with this forum and in the Porsche street car community. I can source all of these parts for you including all of the ERP and GT3 parts.
I have tons of experience and can help tailor a kit to your needs and driving style.
Email me for more info.
Mike@awe-tuning.com
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Wow.....
On the board for 15 minutes and I'm already running into The Fummer.
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then there are the motons for the other 5% of hardcore track junkies.
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Robert
Here's what I'd personally recommend, if you plan to track the car for 10 days per year, or more...
BUSHINGS BUSHINGS BUSHINGS:
The drivetrain in these cars porpouses bad enough with a modified powerplant that you can break loose boost hoses and cause exhaust tips to come OFF! This has happened to me and others...
I'd start with WEVO or GT3 Cupcar motor mounts and trans mounts. I'd also check the condition of the front diff mount and replace it if you have any evidence of damage to it.
I'd consider the following point to upgrade:
Adjsutable thrust bushings - Added negative camber causes the front corners to gain way to much positive caster... You need the ability to dial that BACK. Adjustable "clocking" thrust bushings will give you this ability.
Pillow mounts - These mounts will help your suspension stay true in its adjustment. Without them, as you progress in your ability, you will force the upper mounts to move under severe load.
Lock plates for your TOE links - Again, as you progress, you can cause the OEM adjusters to lose their adjustment settings. These lock plates will do away with the OEM adjusters all together.
Rear Sub-frame solid bushings... These will also stave off deflection in the drivetrain. As you progress in your driving you will notice more and more out things come "out of alignment" slightly...These mounts help lock down the rear subframe...
Now for the "fun" stuff:
GT3 Lower control arms... I'd do these FRONT AND REAR. They're pricey, but they work. Be sure to buy plenty of shims... And the shim for the PSM sensor. You can also get the (Tarred or other) monoball mount for the inner pivot, which removes the last of the rubber on that component...
Upper rear control arms AKA Dog bones - Make sure if you get these that you get STEEL insert for your heim joints. I've deformed and loosened the aluminum inserts that came with mine.
Adjustable Toe links - These will seriously improve your car's consistancy in cornering. The OEM toe links will deflect on you as you improve beyond novice/intermediate.
Adjustable Sway bars - You can go the GT3 route, or the H/R route, or whoever... But your bars are only as good as the droplink attached to them. Make sure you get a GOOD adjustable droplink that has a proven track record on the track and for sustained period of performance (years).
I won't go into the coilover battle here, as I know some look down on Bilsteins for a serious track application... If you're building the "ultimate" suspension, as the thread states, then most will recommend... MOTON! But as Dez points out below, JRZ and Ohlins are top shelf as well.
Just have a great shop on hand to help you set them up at the track. They are NOT for the novice.
Mike
BUSHINGS BUSHINGS BUSHINGS:
The drivetrain in these cars porpouses bad enough with a modified powerplant that you can break loose boost hoses and cause exhaust tips to come OFF! This has happened to me and others...
I'd start with WEVO or GT3 Cupcar motor mounts and trans mounts. I'd also check the condition of the front diff mount and replace it if you have any evidence of damage to it.
I'd consider the following point to upgrade:
Adjsutable thrust bushings - Added negative camber causes the front corners to gain way to much positive caster... You need the ability to dial that BACK. Adjustable "clocking" thrust bushings will give you this ability.
Pillow mounts - These mounts will help your suspension stay true in its adjustment. Without them, as you progress in your ability, you will force the upper mounts to move under severe load.
Lock plates for your TOE links - Again, as you progress, you can cause the OEM adjusters to lose their adjustment settings. These lock plates will do away with the OEM adjusters all together.
Rear Sub-frame solid bushings... These will also stave off deflection in the drivetrain. As you progress in your driving you will notice more and more out things come "out of alignment" slightly...These mounts help lock down the rear subframe...
Now for the "fun" stuff:
GT3 Lower control arms... I'd do these FRONT AND REAR. They're pricey, but they work. Be sure to buy plenty of shims... And the shim for the PSM sensor. You can also get the (Tarred or other) monoball mount for the inner pivot, which removes the last of the rubber on that component...
Upper rear control arms AKA Dog bones - Make sure if you get these that you get STEEL insert for your heim joints. I've deformed and loosened the aluminum inserts that came with mine.
Adjustable Toe links - These will seriously improve your car's consistancy in cornering. The OEM toe links will deflect on you as you improve beyond novice/intermediate.
Adjustable Sway bars - You can go the GT3 route, or the H/R route, or whoever... But your bars are only as good as the droplink attached to them. Make sure you get a GOOD adjustable droplink that has a proven track record on the track and for sustained period of performance (years).
I won't go into the coilover battle here, as I know some look down on Bilsteins for a serious track application... If you're building the "ultimate" suspension, as the thread states, then most will recommend... MOTON! But as Dez points out below, JRZ and Ohlins are top shelf as well.
Just have a great shop on hand to help you set them up at the track. They are NOT for the novice.
Mike
Last edited by Mikelly; Feb 27, 2009 at 07:19 AM.
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^^^ What he said ^^^^
Except for one thing:
1) JRZ, and Ohlins are every bit as good as Motons. PSS9 limit your abilities to change the ride height. JIC are a better track application but are not flexible on bumpy surfaces with the stiffer springs needed for the weight of the TT.
Except for one thing:
1) JRZ, and Ohlins are every bit as good as Motons. PSS9 limit your abilities to change the ride height. JIC are a better track application but are not flexible on bumpy surfaces with the stiffer springs needed for the weight of the TT.
