While I agree with you about Externals being a lot less hassle, I still think there MUST be a better solution for this using the internals. and how do you block the old wastegates when you install externals? (Weld them shut?)

All that fabrication is very expensive amongst other things. I find it very hard to belive that someone has not come up with a proper internal solution. There are tons of internal wastegate actuators out there that could be retrofitted, but I cannot for the life of me find any Brackets for the K24 housing. I would love to get some brackets and play with other wastegate actuators.

SWR

 

Tom, I think I know why only the WG actuator rod on the right failed. The right rod has a dogleg bend in order to clear the turbo. The left turbo rod is straight. The way the right side turbo is clocked (with outlet pointing towards the intercooler) places the WG actuator on the large part of the snail (compressor housing). The bend is necessary...without it the angle of the rod would be too severe to function properly. Are your rod failures at one of the angles of the dogleg bend? If so, then it is a function of metal weakening due to the bend. Add the repeated use during track events...the rod fatigues and finally fails.

BTW, I have a set of very high quality stainless headers with Tial 44mm external wastegates. PM or email me if interested.

roadsterdoc@yahoo.com

 

My upgraded factory wastegates have never had an issue. 3 years now.

My post in this thread turned out to be overtightened wastegates (too much boost).

 

I just put in new rods from Todd at EVOMS.
They are not threaded on the bends and look more robust/better quality.
I kept breaking the passenger side one also. Car ran fine, just was sluggish and the
exhaust sounded funny/different. EVOMs has upgraded backer plates and wastegates as well.
Good luck Tom!

MK

 

update, just put the new rods in got 23 miles on the track and it broke.

for now will go back to stock rods then convert to external wastes gates soon.

I strongly suggest others file suit, this will happen to you at the worst possible time. Protomotive does not have an answer to this problem.

 

Why not use the stock rods permanently?

 

Is it possible that the W/G itself is somehow stiffer than it should be? This more difficult movement would add stress to the rod and perhaps explain the rate of failure. Since it's snapped now maybe take the opportunity to try and move the flapper - is it very stiff? It's possible for carbon to build up and make the movement rough. The actuator, seeing too much boost, would simply keep pushing against this...