If you lay on your back looking up under your dash, you will see a cylinder with a spring in it attached to the clutch pedal held in by a pin/clip. While you are laying there, push your clutch pedal in and you will see how it works. If you push up towards the steering wheel and twist clockwise it will come out in 2 pieces, the spring/cup and then the rod/clip/pin. My clutch never chattered or shuddered before and I am sure it won't now. Depending on how big you are, this could take 5 minutes or 25 minutes...took me 10 minutes including figuring it out.

 

Thanks.
1) Do you take both the spring/cup and the rod/clip/pin out completely..
2) How does it feel now?
3) Is your car AWD
4) Does your engine/drivetrain vibrate when you launch?
Thanks

 

1) Do you take both the spring/cup and the rod/clip/pin out completely. YES, remove everything except the plastic clips that held the spring in the bracket.

2) How does it feel now? Better. Haven't driven it yet but moved it around my garage and it feels better already. Usually it's herky jerky when it's cold. It's not now.

3) Is your car AWD Yes

4) Does your engine/drivetrain vibrate when you launch? Not much track time yet, but when I did, no. If you launch too hard you might get wheel hop unless you spin. NOW I am hoping to slip it out.

 

Thanks..
Was wondering if you experience drivetrain vibration during normal launches while daily driving.

 

No, none. I have no chattering, shuddering, vibration or anything out of the ordinary while driving, stopping, starting or launching etc...

 

Thanks. I only have chattering when I engage the clutch...

Is the clutch pedal harder to push down without the springs?

 

Do you have a lightweight flywheel? Are you tuned for it, if you have a flash?

 

Yes and yes... I think the constant stalling (by other drivers) and the vibrations I get when trying to launch sometimes could be do the clutch not being broken in properly. I am anxious to see if the removal of the springs eliminates a lot of this.

 

Clutch break-in is CRITICAL, especially with a LWFW setup. If the disc doesn't "bed in" properly, it will chatter. You need a full 400-500 miles of NO boost and all stop and go. Then slowly start adding in some power. It takes a good 1500 to sometimes 3000 miles to break in. Mine became consistant and driveable after about 1800 miles.

 

Mike,
Did it move the engagement point further down?

 

The spring removal? I think so, not a lot, but a little. Again, I haven't had a chance to drive it after I removed the spring, except to move it around the garage, but it felt better. I'll post my opinion on this 5 minute, free clutch mod after I drive it, probably this weekend.

 

Regarding the spring removal:

I got the "bell" that houses the spring off, and the spring removed. You were not kidding that thing was under some pressure!

The rod that went thru the center of the spring is still attached to the clutch pedal, and I can't see how to get it off. The upper pivot point is attached via small pin that cannot be removed do to lack of clearance in the clutch pedal housing.

How do you remove the rod and upper spring mount?

Thanks,

Tom

 

I think I just pulled mine straight down. It just sets in a place. Clip does nothing I guess? Pull it straight down. Shine a light up and you can see how the pin sits in there...

 

Did you leave the small white plastic spring perch in place, and just remove the long pin/rod that was in it?

Thanks Tom

 

Yup. I removed the metal cup, the spring, the rod with the washer thing on it. Left all the plastic mounting hardware pieces installed.