I have been wearing out my tires VERY quickly and at $450 a pop I am now thinking of going with a less aggressive alignment. My question is what is the best way to add positive camber to the rear wheels? Dog bones (upper control arms) or OEM GT3 adjustable lower arms?

Are the GT3 lower arms made to lessen camber only or by installing them?

Also, I was told to upgrade to adjustable toe links. Are these necessary to get the car aligned to spec?

 

You should not have to add mods to your car to get less camber. Who is aligning the car and what are your current alignment settings? Also where are the tires wearing too fast, inside edge?

Your JIC's should have come with pillow ball upper mounts that allow camber adjustment in the rear. All you need is for those to be setup to a more friendly setup. Toe can also be adjusted without mods, it's just tougher.

 

Cantrell Motorsports in Kirkland is aligning the car. They are a very good shop and they recommended I go with the upper dog bones. The tires are wearing very fast on the inside edges. I was unaware that the JIC rear had adjustments for the camber?

 

If your car is lowered, you reach a point where the factory eccentic camber adjustment will not allow any more positive camber. So what I did was add the upper dogbones out at a 1/4 inch and then you can run less camber and better tire wear. Most people are running WAY too much negative camber. BTW Carry Eisenlohr told me that and I am sorry if I misspelled his name.

 

Are you talking normal road use --or track?

 

It is my DD (15K a year or so avg.) and I do about 3-5 DE per year.

 

Why not raise the car up a tad? Are you running GT2 ride height specs?

 

I don't think it comes for the rears Heavy... I'm sure it's fronts only

 

On my car, in the rear I have the Agency Power upper control arms and lower toe link, with stock lower control arms. When I have the car aligned, I have them first set the track alignment (-2.25 deg, stock toe-in), then reset it to the stock street setting. I write down the changes, e.g, 1.5 turns CW on front control arm, 0.75 turns CW on rear control arm, 0.5 turns CCW on toe link. It is then very easy to go back and forth between the two settings.

I get very even tire wear on both the street and the track.

Jon

 

Do you know what Camber settings you are currently running for the car Don?

 

Was this intended for me?

Anyway, I run the absolute stock alignment on the street. I don't recall the settings offhand, but you can find them easily.

On the track I use stock toe and -2.25 deg camber in the rear, -2.5 deg camber in the front with maybe 0 deg toe, or even a touch positive. I have GT3 lower control arms in the front, and need 14 mm of shims to get that much negative camber.

 

I am having the same issue with my lowered 2001 911 Carrera. Will the adjustable (dog bones) fix the camber issue by themselves?

 

My car is alligned at GT2 ride height and specs...While alligning the car i understood that with stock control arms(rear)the factory eccentrics reach their limits in order to get the desired camber...However i was slightly in specs for rear camber...if somebody goes below GT2 ride height,he should definetely use some kind of adjustable control arms in order to reach desired camber...

 

Sounds to me if im lowered on 1" springs all i need is upper control arms if i just want to get less negative camber?

 

Correct. Most people replace the rear toe link and put in locking pins to remove the factory eccentric camber adjustments.